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L1 750 Track/Street build

23732 Views 223 Replies 16 Participants Last post by  JCW
A little background, I bought an L1 GSXr750 with a little over 2000 miles earlier this year and lowsided at the track. It was an easy lowside (at 65mph) and after a fairly simple rebuild to replace some plastics and maybe a lever I was back on the bike. Fast forward a few months and I decided I wanted to do a complete makeover, so I crashed at the track REALLY good. Managed to rash or crack EVERY last bit of plastic, bend a brake rotor, snap off a clip on, bent rearsets but the main part of the bike (fork, triples, frame, wheels, etc) survived amazingly well.

It's a work in progress and if anyone has any questions on what has gone before, I'm happy to share. Some of the highlights were an DIY FTECU flash, installation of their quickshifter, M4 Brembo brake installation with Braking's SK2 rotors. Stainless steel brake lines, Traxxion dynamics revalved and resprung forks, shimmed OEM shock and fork extenders up front, GSXR600 headers with a stainless steel stub welded to fit a DIY pie cut midpipe eliminating the cat. This ends in the stock location so I can use any of the slip on mufflers out there. Currently I replaced the rashed stock muffler with a Leo Vince slip on.

So, at the moment, I'm waiting on a superbike plastics kit from Armour Bodies. Seems they have very good reviews on their body kits. I ordered a superbike kit (one with the stock seat replaced with a one piece tail unit and a foam pad). Unfortunately, I was told it will be December before I MIGHT get it. Apparently they stock the supersport kit that utilizes the stock seat. Whatever, I'm healing from my clavicle fracture and I'm not riding seriously anyway.

I'm planning how to make the bike barely "street legal" while utilizing the race plastics. I was thinking a mini projector lights and a custom mount. I fabbed up a bracket to mount a tail/brake light sandwiched between the fender eliminator and the undersurface of the frame. I've been fortunate enough to have learned how to tig weld and brackets like this are an easy thing.
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Pulled the wiring harness off and I'm going to try to lighten it. It weighs about 4.8 pounds stock. Regulator included. Let's see how much or little can be taken off...

Fan is a 7" unit and weighs a little less than 1.5#'s. Not much I can do there unless I just remove it for the track.
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Last night I stayed up late and rewired the harness...
Removed wiring to HI/LO beams, parking lights, turnsignals, brake lights, hazards, ignition switch (woodcraft bypass), handlebar lights switches, associated fusebox wiring
Wiring to exhaust valve actuator
O2 sensor
Side stand/turnsignal relay
side stand switch
Lap counter switch
Horn
Steering damper electrical
PAIR valve
Depinned the speedo and ecu connectors

Ended up not being as much wiring as I thought I could remove.


there's a bit more gone than this I suppose after depinning the ecu and fusebox this AM

Kept the speed sensor
Oil press switch
Clutch switch
Fan and relay
TO sensor, gps, cmp, ckp, ap, stva, tp, isc, iat, stp sensors.... mainly cause I didn't know what these stood for. Jk.
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My urgent helpppp-my-bike-won't-start-and-I-cant-understand-why thread to follow shortly
Ordered up some japanese connectors and electrical pieces and supplies from Eastern Beaver to continue my rewiring project. The owner lives in Japan and buys these connectors direct and sells them overseas. The prices are awesome compared to the pre wired lousy "OEM" style connectors they sell at the local auto store. And they won't even have the matching connectors.
I've found every connector/terminal I've needed so far. Even plan on switching the 2 nonsealed connectors going to the dash that sit in the rubber boot to a sealed single connector. Waiting on shipping though.

The search for additional weight loss is going well... kinda. I've got a lead on some more Ti and CF parts and may take the leap to a CF front wheel. Looking at rotobox boost or bullet. The rear is light enough. I'm focusing on getting the f/r weight bias back in line. The fitment of some the CF stuff is absolutely HORRENDUS... for example the CF front fairing/dash stay is so far off that I'll have to shim the mounting tabs with at least 3/4" of material to get it to not snap off.



Tekarbon emailed and finds nothing wrong with this picture.... F em.
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