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Discussion Starter #61 (Edited)
Normally I would agree. And you are correct.

‘Cept I’ve been going to this track off and on for past 7 years. So, I’m familiar with the lines.

Yeah, can always improve body position. Something I worked really hard on last year. I’m pretty happy with the progress since I decided to get serious about going fast a couple years ago. But, felt I was missing something.

Immediately, the new peg position is giving me a feeling of better leverage. I feel like I’m sitting on top of the bike, but I really like the feeling of control. Maybe this will help with my progress...
 

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Discussion Starter #63
Anyone know why they used unequal velocity stacks for the 750 and equal for the 600?

Anyway, I'm thinking of throwing on a set the shorter stacks. There's a couple on ebay for $20.

Funny, Danos offers their shorter stacks for $150. LOL.
 

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Anyone know why they used unequal velocity stacks for the 750 and equal for the 600?

Anyway, I'm thinking of throwing on a set the shorter stacks. There's a couple on ebay for $20.

Funny, Danos offers their shorter stacks for $150. LOL.
Usually when the stacks are staggered it's due to airflow testing, shape of box to engine flow CFM. Those engineers are pretty smart lol
 

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Discussion Starter #65
I think I read it was just a compromise of low and high rpm driveability.

I'm going to install the short ones for the track. Just for sh!ts and giggles...
 

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Usually when the stacks are staggered it's due to airflow testing, shape of box to engine flow CFM. Those engineers are pretty smart lol
Mixed height stacks gives you power all across the RPM range. All short stacks typically move that power to the upper rpm range. Drag racers run all short stacks cause they are always WOT for the whole race and want peak HP
 

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Stacks might be interesting to play with but for me getting a good drive (where midrange comes into play) is probably more important than top end.
 

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Stacks might be interesting to play with but for me getting a good drive (where midrange comes into play) is probably more important than top end.
I almost pulled the trigger on a set for my busa, as I had them in my 1000 before. Made great top end power and the midrange doesn't suffer enough to make me NOT do it, but since this Busa is 99.999999% a street bike I decided against them this time.
 

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Discussion Starter #70
Installed the 600's short stacks just for the heck of it.
Sitting down to watch the Lemans GP.


I changed out the tires and weighed the wheels on a bathroom scale. Not super accurate but since I had trouble searching for OEM wheel weights here they are for reference sake...

2011 GSXR750 wheels without rotors or spacers, with bearings. Rear minus sprocket and adapter, no cush drive rubbers.

front- ~9#'s
rear- ~12-13#'s
 

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Discussion Starter #71
A pic of the difference in air stacks




Bike is mostly ready for this weekend's trackday.

 

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Discussion Starter #72 (Edited)
Have you ever rolled off WOT and felt the bike accelerate harder for a half second?
If I was on my old carb'd bike, it feels like a lean main jet.

I looked at the fuel maps and the secondary throttles are closing slightly from 70% to WOT from 7 or 8K rpm to somewhere around 10K. That would mean that they are opening slightly as I roll off the throttle from WOT in that rpm range.

Above a certain rpm (>10K), the secondary throttle are opened their max to redline.

Anyone else notice this? It's not a huge deal but having the bike surge ahead on track when you are approaching a corner isn't exactly comforting.


I was going to remap the secondary throttles in this area to keep the secondaries at least from closing.
 

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Discussion Starter #73


Thought this might help a little. Dropped just under 1/2 pound in rotating mass off the rear rotor. Just for Sh!ts and Giggles.

Didn't have the balls to remap the secondary throttle yet...
 

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Discussion Starter #74 (Edited)
UGGGGGHHH!

Installed the rear wheel. Bled my brakes front and back. Went out for a ride.

Came back and noticed the right axle block wasn't touching the adjuster. I swear I torqued the axle nut right...

Go to remove the axle nut and it's locked on. Tried too hard to remove it and sheared the axle block on the right side.

I'm F^cked, my trackday is Sunday...

Going to the local suzuki dealer to see what they have in the AM. Still have to figure how to get the damn nut off the axle. I could cut it off but...
 

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Came back and noticed the right axle block wasn't touching the adjuster. I swear I torqued the axle nut right...

Go to remove the axle nut and it's locked on. Tried too hard to remove it and sheared the axle block on the right side.

I'm F^cked, my trackday is Sunday...

Going to the local suzuki dealer to see what they have in the AM. Still have to figure how to get the damn nut off the axle. I could cut it off but...
Been there, done that. Had to cut the nut off with a dremel. Now I'm sure to use a little anti seize on the threads.
 

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Discussion Starter #76 (Edited)
Came back and noticed the right axle block wasn't touching the adjuster. I swear I torqued the axle nut right...

Go to remove the axle nut and it's locked on. Tried too hard to remove it and sheared the axle block on the right side.

I'm F^cked, my trackday is Sunday...

Going to the local suzuki dealer to see what they have in the AM. Still have to figure how to get the damn nut off the axle. I could cut it off but...
Been there, done that. Had to cut the nut off with a dremel. Now I'm sure to use a little anti seize on the threads.
Yeah, when I Google searched WTF was going on, I saw you had mentioned it.

Wouldn't be a big deal but my trackday is ducked.

And the guy in front of me at chic fila drive thru just order 15 sandwiches...
 

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Discussion Starter #77
So, I ended up tig welding a $.99 nut (3/4") on the right side of the axle.

Grabbed the axle with that nut and spun that mother Tucker nut on the left side off the rest of the way.

Why???? didn't Suzuki put a nut or an allen recess in this end of the axle instead of relying on some soft aluminum to do the job?

The axle threads were a little wonky. The locking mechanism on the nut had failed and was not going back on any bolt. Fortunately I had a couple nuts of the correct pitch and thread from old bike builds and I wasted one trying to clean up the threads of the axle.

Finally with the last nut and a small file, I was able to clean up the threads so the nut would spin on all the way to the bottom.

Assembled everything, drew a witness mark on the nut, axle and frame and went for a test ride.

Everything looked to hold OK. I'm back on.

May replace the whole thing with a Fast by Frank quick change rear axle eventually. When I save some money...
 

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Discussion Starter #78
Why did Suzuki put that small plate in front of the oil pan so you can't drop the pan without removing the engine?
Stupidest thing I've seen.

So, I wonder if I should just change case cover and the oil and start her back up.

Ground a nice gash through the right side and wanted to clean the pan.
 

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So, I ended up tig welding a $.99 nut (3/4") on the right side of the axle.

Grabbed the axle with that nut and spun that mother Tucker nut on the left side off the rest of the way.

Why???? didn't Suzuki put a nut or an allen recess in this end of the axle instead of relying on some soft aluminum to do the job?

The axle threads were a little wonky. The locking mechanism on the nut had failed and was not going back on any bolt. Fortunately I had a couple nuts of the correct pitch and thread from old bike builds and I wasted one trying to clean up the threads of the axle.

Finally with the last nut and a small file, I was able to clean up the threads so the nut would spin on all the way to the bottom.

Assembled everything, drew a witness mark on the nut, axle and frame and went for a test ride.

Everything looked to hold OK. I'm back on.

May replace the whole thing with a Fast by Frank quick change rear axle eventually. When I save some money...
I'd really like to find a castle nut for mine like the prior bikes had. With the LighTech adjusters there's no axle protruding past the nut. I really ought to drill a corner of the nut for safety wire but think I'd prefer castle nut and cotter pin through the axle.
 

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Discussion Starter #80
I'd really like to find a castle nut for mine like the prior bikes had. With the LighTech adjusters there's no axle protruding past the nut. I really ought to drill a corner of the nut for safety wire but think I'd prefer castle nut and cotter pin through the axle.
I’ve read here and there about using a gsxr1000 rear axle since it is longer. But, I looked up online and it looks like the rear bearings indicate the 1000 axle is bigger in diameter as well. So, no go...

M22 pitch 1.5 nut.
 
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