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Discussion Starter #121 (Edited)
LOL, just for fun I priced out some Ti hardware on the bike.

Thought I would first start with the large bolts M10 and bigger. They are primarily in the rear suspension linkage and shock. A rear axle nut because I've f'd up a couple axles already because of suzuki's locking nut design.
Then the fasteners on the rotating and unsprung locations. Rotor bolts, sprocket nuts.
I threw in the fasteners for the Sato race concept rearsets, too. They use 6 bolts on each side! a little overkill.

It came out to over $400!!! And could have easily been more. The caliper bolts and subframe bolts are drilled and seem pretty light already so I skipped those.


Waiting on some core moto wheels...

Weighed the bike in "road worthy" form. a crg mirror, small led headlights, taillight, side stand. and it stands at 380+#'s. I'm starting to obsess about weight but at this point the price to return ratio really sucks.
 

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Discussion Starter #122
Finally got off my a$$ and installed the used Nomar into the garage floor.

I changed the tires out for new SP's. definitely can be a slight struggle until you get the technique down. didn't bother warming the tires up either. that would have helped. but, it beats the hell out of spooning them on.
I figure if I can change my car's tires then the unit will be worth it. As a matter of fact, not having to wait for service and driving there and back is "almost" worth it already especially bought used.


Weighed the bike in track mode- no sidestand, lights, track plastics and a full tank of gas- 380#'s. About 1/2 full it was 365#'s. Didn't know gas was quite that heavy. Although I guess oil and water(coolant) is even heavier.

I am waiting on some core moto wheels which should drop another 8 pounds or more. I just couldn't pony up the extra 1.5+ grand for carbon fiber. I may still get that race alternator.
 

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LOL, just for fun I priced out some Ti hardware on the bike.

Thought I would first start with the large bolts M10 and bigger. They are primarily in the rear suspension linkage and shock. A rear axle nut because I've f'd up a couple axles already because of suzuki's locking nut design.
Then the fasteners on the rotating and unsprung locations. Rotor bolts, sprocket nuts.
I threw in the fasteners for the Sato race concept rearsets, too. They use 6 bolts on each side! a little overkill.

It came out to over $400!!! And could have easily been more. The caliper bolts and subframe bolts are drilled and seem pretty light already so I skipped those.


Waiting on some core moto wheels...

Weighed the bike in "road worthy" form. a crg mirror, small led headlights, taillight, side stand. and it stands at 380+#'s. I'm starting to obsess about weight but at this point the price to return ratio really sucks.
Which axle nut did you end up with? I hate the OEM one as well. Would love to have some Core Moto wheels myself someday.
 

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Discussion Starter #125
i didnt actually buy $400 in ti hardware, but i did get probolt's ti rear axle nut. not so much for any weight saved, but to avoid thsat thread eating locking mechanism of the oem nut.
i'll get a pic posted.

the core moto wheels are ~$2100. way better than the $4k of BST, at least thats what i keep telling myself...
 

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Trying to remember which axle nut I actually have on mine now. Had one aluminum one but the anodized color wore off pretty quickly. Would like to find a good pre-drilled one.
 

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pro bolt's axle nut is not drilled. Yeah, I was kinda disappointed.
Right. With my LighTech adjusters, the nut doesn't leave any axle protruding where I could drill and wire the axle itself and I really don't enjoy drilling the corners on the nut itself. The SV has a nice castle nut so you can just drill a hole in the axle and put a cotter pin through.
 

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Discussion Starter #129 (Edited)
After waiting a LONG time, the core moto wheels finally arrived.
They look great, but all that matters to me is the weight and performance. (and price point/durability which is why I chose aluminum in the end)

Rear wheel measured against OEM with the same components installed (aluminum sprockets) is almost 4#'s less.
rear.jpg
rearstock.jpg

I still have to remove and weigh the OEM front wheel/tire.
front.jpg

I will spoon on some new Supercorsa TD's as soon as I find a supplier that has them.

Hopefully, after figuring out my tire wear issue, these will last more than one trackday...
rear tire wear.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #130 (Edited)
front comparison.jpg

Total weight savings 5.2#'s for the set. Not quite what I was hoping for, but 5 pounds of rotating/unsprung weight savings is nothing to sneeze at.
The OEM front is admirably light for a stock piece.
The core moto rear is impressive light.

With a 1/2 tank of gas, in track trim, I should be just into the high 350's to 360 pounds.
 

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Discussion Starter #131
I can't believe yesterday was the first time back on a bike in almost 1 1/2 months since the last trackday.
Summer has flown by.

First trip out on the Apex wheels and some SC1's. Bike is more responsive, easier to change direction entering the corner and mid corner if needed. A little easier to hold a line. Braking seems improved.

I've made some suspension changes to see if this weekend's trackday will be kinder to my rear tire.
If I see some of the same wear, I'll stop by the trackside suspension guy and see what he recommends.
 

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Discussion Starter #132 (Edited)
Tire wear was much better. Still had that cold tear appearance but not as severe. i was dropping tire pressure all day to keep the rear around 26psi for a pirelli SC1 rear. No warmers.

20190901_103643_1567352291463.jpg

i keep loosing coolant somehow. the reservoir goes empty after a full day at the track but i havent noticed any major leaks. only that last session did the temps get up in 210's on the grid before the fan kicked in and dropped it to 200. then after we got moving, 160-170.
this morning, i topped off the radiator about a cup i think and filled the reservoir. the hoses seem ok. not obvious leakage, but i have yet to restart the bike.

bike is handling great, i'm hanging in with the faster group in intermediate and I seem to be running less lean angle than some of them. Not sure why. maybe the rear is jacked up so high. i still have plenty of lean angle to give, and im sure if i did a few more trackdays this year, id eventually get there.

Bike is very easy to transition. before the wheel swap, in one particular corner i would get a brief little nasty headshake coming quickly off wot and flicking it into a right hander. With these lighter wheels (or something else?) i didnt experience the headshake. i felt like i was cheating a little out there. too bad Im not faster to take advantage of the package.
 

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Discussion Starter #133
The leak turned out to be my lower left side radiator hose from the water pump. It had a small crack on the inside of the hose just enough to leak when the water pump was wailing along at the track.

Found a "good" deal on some Samco hoses and just installed them. A couple of the hoses were a PITA to get on and off but I managed. Never wanted to pay $300 for hoses, but it seemed to be a good time to replace them all just in case another was on its way out.

Felt obliged paying another $50 for clamps that are "silcone hose safe."

So, my last track weekend in a couple weeks will likely just be a trackday. Oh well...
 

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Discussion Starter #134
Upgrade for the year...
I'm looking to upgrade calipers and save almost 1 pound of unsprung weight on the front over my M4 brembos.
Not too bad. 800g for the M4 to 578g for the GP4.
 

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Keep up the great stuff. I like reading about you and your track bike. Envious, in a positive way of course.
 

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Discussion Starter #136
Everything has been in steps and focused on getting the bike as light and as agile as possible for the track while keeping a "max budget" every year... ;)

I would love to figure out a way to run a smaller underseat fuel tank and have a lightweight fiberglass shell over a dummy tank. That would be cool.

Ultimately, I'd like to get the race alternator from BDK. At that point, I'd call it done...lol
 

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The leak turned out to be my lower left side radiator hose from the water pump. It had a small crack on the inside of the hose just enough to leak when the water pump was wailing along at the track.

Found a "good" deal on some Samco hoses and just installed them. A couple of the hoses were a PITA to get on and off but I managed. Never wanted to pay $300 for hoses, but it seemed to be a good time to replace them all just in case another was on its way out.

Felt obliged paying another $50 for clamps that are "silcone hose safe."

So, my last track weekend in a couple weeks will likely just be a trackday. Oh well...
I've looked at the Samco hoses too but not pulled the trigger.
 

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Discussion Starter #139 (Edited)
Cheapest price from hard racing I think. Still pricey at $302. You can use your old clamps but I would consider getting silicone specific clamps for $50.

Motorsport has the 2011+ kits for $286!whoops. Out of stock... I have a spare set here if u are interested.
 

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Discussion Starter #140 (Edited)
I think I can do the subframe fuel tank thing. I’m thinking about cutting out the base of a trashed tank where the fuel tank pump flange is. Reposition it in between the subframe rails and construct and tig weld a steel tank in place.
Then pull a mold off the stock tank with some modifications and fiberglass a shell.


Edit- Just picked up a nearly trashed tank off ebay for $50... I will make a cardboard template for the new tank between the rails today. Ideally, I could fab/shape the top of the new tank as the new seat! alas, I lack the skill to shape metal like this...

 
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