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Discussion Starter #141
I got the trashed tank in the mail. Flange area is clean and undamaged. I wonder if the flange is welded or bonded in place?
I am going to model a wire frame for this tank out of welding wire. Get an idea about shape and fit.

the bare stock tank is 10.5 pounds. I would like to keep this cheater tank to less than 5 pounds to be worth it. I can't weld aluminum with my dc welder but thin steel is a breeze for me.
We'll see...
 

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Discussion Starter #142
Calipers I wanted are unavailable.. thats OK. Saves me a bunch of money.
 

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Discussion Starter #143 (Edited)
293634

293635


Just getting started. I wish I could make that reverse curve seat section in metal...but I don't have the skills.
I think I'm going to end up with something like the zx10rr superbike tank in this picture from superbike unlimited.


 

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Stays Crispy in Milk
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That's some ambition there. Those Tightails subframes are cool. I don't need one...I don't need one...I don't need one...
 

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Discussion Starter #145
Alright enough thinking about it. I'll wake up at 4am and start thinking about this and not get back to sleep...
I'm going to start on the rear section. Base first, then sides. That's easy.
Try to keep the tightails original tank/seat mounts intact. that's gonna complicated the design of the tank a little...

For the top, pie cut strips of metal for the reverse curve for the seat portion.
 

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Discussion Starter #146
I cut up the tank I bought off eBay and the steel is less than 0.036”. So thin it's amazing really...
Well at least it’s the same gauge as I am using.

I cut off the flange and plan on building a small well for the pump.
 

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Discussion Starter #147
I weighed the bottom flange. 1.2 pounds... f me this project is becoming less and less appealing in steel.
 

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Discussion Starter #149 (Edited)
293673


My plan to extend the tank all the way back to the rear mount was changed when I realized to meet my weight goal, I would need as small a tank as possible to use the least amount of material.

This is the rear section tacked. There are gaps to close up and strips of metal to cut and replace to try to put some more shape in that seat. And the whole front section to do... but at the very least I got started!!!

293674
 

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Discussion Starter #151
Taking more pictures than actual work... not really. This is the first time really shaping sheet metal for me so everything is taking 10 times as long...


left front.jpg
left rear.jpg
top.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #154 (Edited)
I was freakin a little today trying to run a bead...
thin gauge steel is so unforgiving. weld too cold and you sit in one place too long waiting for the weld puddle to form and melt through and blow a hole. too hot and you burn away the edges of the sheet metal and blow a hole. and the difference will be 2-3 amps either direction on a machine that goes up to 200 amps.
Anyway, practiced on a couple scraps and finally got the settings dialed in and found my sweet spot. 26amps, pulse on. I can watch the puddle form and move it back and forth across a gap if needed. When there is a good fit with the edges touching the puddle flows together with the smallest of beads.

293703


I pretty much went over this weld a couple times patching holes and stuff. that's why it looks a little like a run of snot. there is a short segment on the left that represents what the bead would look like if the edges were touching about 1/2 the rest of the weld.
I tend not to dab the wire to get that stack of dimes look with such thin sheet metal because I need the filler metal close to the puddle at all times to cool it or else, you guessed it, i'll blow a hole. Maybe not the best practice, but works for me.

This is 22g steel. the piece is less than 4" across and looking at it with the naked eye, the left most weld bead looks like a decent width. Weld is shiny with good color. the HAZ is a little wide maybe. I could be more consistent with the speed I weld. But again I was patching holes I put in the piece.
 

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SuperMod of the North
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You will certainly have the opportunity to practice with this project. Run the same bead for us when you are finished and I think you will see you have a different result. I am a lousy welder but a great grinder...it works out.
 

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Discussion Starter #159 (Edited)
Since this is a trackday mod, I’m wondering if I should model the tank after the aftermarket tank shrouds they sell for better “traction” while cornering.

C2C35A45-5EE9-4D14-8D49-A1A40E865C85.jpeg


They have a larger more upright flatter surface to brace against while braking and has a more pronounced ledge toward the back top to help brace while hanging off.

This shape would increase capacity a little as well.
 

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SuperMod of the North
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You make it pretty as those headers and I say screw the shroud. Let them behold Frankentank in all it's glory. Let them be afeared.
 
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