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Discussion Starter #1
Is there any reason to keep the left side controls for a track bike? Pretty sure i just have to jump the clutch safety.. am i missing anything else? Is that what you guys do? Gunna be some space btwn clutch perch and grip. Anybody move grip in and cut clip on down at the end? Or just live with the space?
 

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No need for the controls but the clutch safety switch bypass is not so simple.

The switch also sends a signal to the ECM and it affects how the ECM acts. Best I've heard was that it reduces the rev limiter, and possibly mapping, but I've not seen a definitive answer.

In the past the switch was either left in place and operational or a relay circuit was built to mimic the operation of the clutch safety switch action. I'm sure you can find a thread outlining how this is done.

I wonder if there is a parameter in a flash tune that can eliminate the need for the switch?
 

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I wonder if there is a parameter in a flash tune that can eliminate the need for the switch?
Nope. The interlock is in the relay system, not the the programming. It can be overcome with some simple wiring (like a DPDT start button to act like the clutch switch). How it affects the ECM is something I've never seen proof of. Basically when the clutch is pulled, it grounds the B/Y wire. That's connected to the ECM. The start button that supplies the power to the starter relay is on the Y/G wire, which is also connected to the ECM.

With no clutch pull, there's no ground to the relay and pushing the start button does nothing, and grounding with no start button does nothing. But, when both are pushed at the same time, the ECM knows it and energizes the fuel pump.

By itself, the ECM can see this ground and know that the clutch is pulled. Whether or not it uses that for a mapping change is unknown to me. When I wired up my bike, I bought a pair of switch pods on ebay. Tore both harnesses down. Kept the two wires for the clutch switch on the left side, and on the right side the wires for the start button and kill switch. Wired them into the Motion Pro generic starter buttons and put all of it on the left bar. Made room for my brembo setup and MotionPro throttle setup on the right. The right switch pod also held the throttle cables, so that function had to be replaced by something.

I would recommend to anyone to keep the clutch switch. All it takes is one time trying to start it in gear without the lever pulled and bad things can happen. It's super easy to keep it, so why try do anything else?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
No need for the controls but the clutch safety switch bypass is not so simple.

The switch also sends a signal to the ECM and it affects how the ECM acts. Best I've heard was that it reduces the rev limiter, and possibly mapping, but I've not seen a definitive answer.

In the past the switch was either left in place and operational or a relay circuit was built to mimic the operation of the clutch safety switch action. I'm sure you can find a thread outlining how this is done.

I wonder if there is a parameter in a flash tune that can eliminate the need for the switch?
thanks for the info. I picked up an '11 750 that was sort of pieced together with a lot of '08 parts. Kid i got it from has the switch jumped out. He also said the bike ran best at WOT but i never rode it as it sat. Trying to get it to the point where i can get it rideable. Have all the parts now just trying to find time to get to it all.
What does the clutch safety switch hurt?
nothing but if you yank the controls the safety switch is part of that harness. Should be easy enough to just run 2 wires and keep the switch enabled if it could lead to other issues.
 

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@Chuckster

The best reason I've read is that it reduced the rev limiter speed and possibly the timing with the clutch lever pulled back so it keeps the engine from flying past the red line with lots of throttle and the clutch disengaged.

I don't know what it does exactly, but my track bike changes sounds very noticeably at idle between clutch engaged/disengaged.
 

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@Chuckster

The best reason I've read is that it reduced the rev limiter speed and possibly the timing with the clutch lever pulled back so it keeps the engine from flying past the red line with lots of throttle and the clutch disengaged.

I don't know what it does exactly, but my track bike changes sounds very noticeably at idle between clutch engaged/disengaged.
Mine too. But I've always attributed that to the difference in load from having to turn the input shaft to the trans or not. I've heard that the clutch switch puts it into the neutral map, so in neutral the clutch would change nothing else.
 

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i just depinned the original wires for the clutch from the connectors and spliced them together.

No more left switchgear!
 

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i just depinned the original wires for the clutch from the connectors and spliced them together.

No more left switchgear!
I agree with JCW. I bought my 07 GSX-R600 from a guy that used to race in AFM out here in Cali and he simply cut all wires except for the clutch ones and took the control out. Doesn't hurt the bike just signals and horn will not work. I recently made it street legal and had to buy the left controls assembly off ebay with the harness intact. It was only 30 bucks and I regain my turn signals and emergency light. If its just a track bike I would cut the non-clutch wires, but if you plan to return it to street bike someday I would just remove the pins from the adapter, put two new pins and ran the two wires to the clutch switch.
 
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