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Discussion Starter #1
I'm not at all new to riding, got 42 years. But this new GXSR600 handles so much different than my other bikes. I'm having trouble getting comfortable cornering. I have a tendency to go wide, especially during a right turn.
I do pride myself in never having had a wreck involving another vehicle. I have low sided a couple of times, but that was just me being stupid.
I have 2 simple rules off thumb:
1) the idiot 1/4 mile up IS GOING TO PULL OUT IN FRONT OF YOU, be ready.
2) everybody on the road is an asshole, except me. ( debatable )
So to get my confidence back, I think a level 1 course might help.
I can't find any info on this, even contacted Barber Mtrspts.
Can anyone hook me up with info on when, where, who & how much $.
Appreciate any help provided.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks guys. The lack of initial countersteer could very well be the issue, but I'm so used to not having to do so that it sort of scares me that I'll dump it if I do. I guess I could practice it in a park lot?
Checked the MSF website too. There is something offered about 20 miles from me. I'll definitely look into that too.
 

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The rider course is a great idea.
Go to a large parking lot/mall w/ little to no traffic, use some lines on the pavement, and practice smoothly turning. This way there is nothing to hit, run in to, off of, etc.

You'll pick it up in no time.
 

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I took an MSF basic course when I got back on a bike 10 years ago after not riding for a couple of decades. It was well worth the time.

Sport bike ergonomics are different with your upper body far forward. At speed this is not a problem but at slower speeds, we tend to support our upper body with the bars. That will lead to sluggish and unstable handling.

A couple of things will help:

Move the clip-ons out. Unless you are Marc Marquez or a ballerina your shoulders are a lot wider than the grips in the stock position. (The OEM bars have a lug that locks into the bottom of the upper triple that prevents movement. They can be easily removed with a small cut saw or dremel tool.)

Install some tank grip pads like stomp grip or Tech-spec. This will help you grip the tank with your knees easier, stabilizing your lower body and freeing up your upper body and arms.

And of course, practice, practice, practice.

Right hand turns seem to be the most common problem, including me. I chalk it up to the hand needing to be in a position to operate the throttle which tends to pull the arm in. Again, opening up the bars will help a bunch.
 

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Street bike before
Bars street bike before.jpg

Street bike after
Bars street bike after.jpg

Track bike for the last few years
Bars track bike.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #8
A couple of things will help:

Move the clip-ons out. Unless you are Marc Marquez or a ballerina your shoulders are a lot wider than the grips in the stock position. (The OEM bars have a lug that locks into the bottom of the upper triple that prevents movement. They can be easily removed with a small cut saw or dremel tool.)

Install some tank grip pads like stomp grip or Tech-spec. This will help you grip the tank with your knees easier, stabilizing your lower body and freeing up your upper body and arms.

And of course, practice, practice, practice.
This is exactly why I came to this site! My gut says that moving the bars out will hep a bunch. It was the first thing I noticed when I test drove the bike. I didn't really notice it when just sitting on the bike, but when I entered the first turn, I struggled a bit. I know I need to practice, then practice some more, but little mods like this could really help. THANK YOU RV6JOHN !!!!!!!!!!
 

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I should have mentioned that I moved them out till the levers just cleared the front cowling when the wheel was turned to the lock.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I should have mentioned that I moved them out till the levers just cleared the front cowling when the wheel was turned to the lock.
Good info, thanks again. My fender eliminator kit arrives tomorrow, so I guess I have some work to do.
 

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I assume this is the lug that needs cutting? View attachment 287685

Yes.

I was able to just slide the clip on down and by turning the wheel one way the clip on could move forward enough to move the lug out from under the triple.

A cut off grinder made quick work of it. You might want to put a piece of steel or aluminum behind it to protect the fork tube.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Having an issue getting the pinch bolt to break free. Using a crappy allen wrench with a small "persuader" pipe. Any idea what size allen it is? I can get an allen socket and use my long 3/8" ratchet.
 

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Having an issue getting the pinch bolt to break free. Using a crappy allen wrench with a small "persuader" pipe. Any idea what size allen it is? I can get an allen socket and use my long 3/8" ratchet.
Allen head pinch bolt?

My clip on is clamped with a 10mm bolt.

Maybe they changed this on later models (mine is a K6)

Just buy a set of metric allen head 3/8" drive tools. You will need them.
 

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I just looked at the parts diagram for your L8 and it should also be a 10mm bolt to loosen the clip on.

There is no need to loosen the pinch bolt in the upper triple unless you want to remove the upper triple. You need to support the bike off the ground if you do.
 

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Nope, mine is a hex bolt.
Going out to get a set of metric hex sockets now :)
Nice. Can't trust the internet! I would rather have allen hex myself.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
A #6 Allen socket made it easy. Dremel took care of the lugs. Waiting on the mail for my new tag lites to show up, then test ride.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Got er done. Used two of the tag bolt type lites, but mounted them to the bracket directly above tag, shining down. This way I won't have to cut & splice wires again when I get my permanent tag.

Moving the bars out definitely helped. A big thank you to rv6john for that bit of wisdom. I'm much more confident going into corners, but still have some learning to do. I just did 30 miles around town making a bunch of turns on sides streets, etc.

This 7000rpm limit during break in is killing me!
 
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