Well, when I did my exhaust change out on the bike the SET valve is removed all together. The servo stays in place and you remove pin 32 out of the ECU harness. Shouldn't be any problem to leave the valve open and remove the signal from the servo to ECU. :thumbup:
You will loose some low end power because you won't have the same amount of back pressure as when you had the set valve. You probably won't be able to notice the amout of power you loose, but it will be there. As long as it stays open you will be fine.
set valve stuff you need to know to fix #c46 fault
I have removed the actuator and all the cables to the exhaust valve,and i have pulled the #32 b/br wire from the ECM ,plus people need to know that the 2 wire plug that went to the valve actuator needs to be cut and soldered together aswell,and to just leave the 3 wire plug undone,if you dont ,the ECM will leave the bike in limp mode,if the F1 light has been on at all,even if the code has gone.
The b/br wire into the ECM only sends the signal to the dash board,but the ECM still has the fault,you just cant see it anymore.
I found this out by hooking up the suzuki dealer box to the bike with the laptop,all the fault codes the bike has recorded are still there,which you need to have cleared (easy)because like all computers that are storing to much info,they slow down in processing speed,and a bike doing 12300rpm needs all the processing speed it can get,thats one reason they went to the 32bit ECM in 2003.
once all this is done,you can rip that nasty old actuator out.
By soldering the 2 wires together,makes the ECM think the actuator is still on the bike,because it is still sending signals and getting answers back.
Now the other stuff you will find out.
The bike will lose about 5-10ftlb at the wheel,at 4000-5500rpm,no big deal,because if you ride at that rpm then you should be on a 250cc bike anyway.
The bike will gain at the most 2 rwhp at topend rpm,(if that),but!!
the big gain, is in the ridablity,no chain snatching,and most of all the throttle on /off transition is much better,no odd serging.
If you ever want to put a full system on the bike ,your already set up for it ,to bolt str8 on.
I have 2003 model, a pc111 usb,bmc filter,tre,hot plugs,speedo healer,17/45 gearing 520 pitch,custom slip on,custom dyno map.
153rwhp 78ftlb not the best but its as smooth as a electric motor.
Thanks for the info. I just bought a K4 that has already been modified with an aftermarket exhaust and actuator/valve removed. He did not pull the #32 pin or solder the two wires as you explained.
*What I need to know, is what color are the 2 wires that need to be soldered together?
*By pulling pin #32 will this disable the FI light completely? I wouldn't want to disable the light for future notification pertaining to other sensors in the bike. (reminds me of an old joke. Check engine light on? Just pull the bulb! That'll fix her!)
hey moose ive got the complete servo cables and mid pipe that came off my 04 1000 at 6200 miles in perfect condition that came off when i put on my m4 i'll give it to you if you want it you just pay the shipping i'm in Ga.
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