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Im a 100% newbie. I bought a black 2006 GSXR600 a couple weeks ago for $6000 with 9000 miles on it. Its in what looks like perfect condition. It didnt come with a manual.
I got it home and road it for a few days and it began making what to me, sounded like a lifter knocking noise. Of course i contacted the dealer and he basically said go to hell. So here i am with a bike making funny noises and i finally figured to check the oil. Its black, very black, and the filter looks very old from what i can tell from the surface.
I went out and bought Mobil1 4T 10w-40 Full Synthetic, which was suggested by a friend who has a CBR600rr. I also got some SeaFoam and thought that would help as well.

Did i buy the right oil? If not what should i have got? Any idea on the knocking sound?
 

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If it's got 9000 miles on it and you're not sure whether it was switched to synthetic around the break in period...I would not change to synthetic now.

Lifter tick is unlikely. My guess is that if the oil was that old...it's probly got a rod bearing on it's way out. Did you see any flakes in the oil?

Ticking could be detonation as well. You're running premium, right?
 

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>If it's got 9000 miles on it and you're not sure whether it was switched to synthetic around the break in period...I would not change to synthetic now.

Why not?

>Ticking could be detonation as well.

Or it could be the normal cold tick that is normal with these bikes, that everyone worries about. Suggest the OP read threads associated with ticking noises.

>You're running premium, right?

Oh, no, don't go turning this in to an octane thread. If I'm not mistaken, 87 octane is still specified for 600's, for that year.


The bottom line is that the OP's choice in oil is perfectly fine. A motorcycle specific 10W-40 grade, which is Suzuki's recommended viscosity for nearly all riding conditions.
 

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why not, doesn't cost much
There are a lot of octane threads floating around here. I think I am going to have to make one a reference sticky. But the short version of the answer is:

1. Using a higher octane than is required for your engine will not offer any more protection from detonation.

2. Higher-than-required octane gas does not burn cleaner or produce more power. In fact, it burns less clean, and has greater fouling tendencies, and produces less power as a result of a decreased burn rate. Using 91 where 87 is specified isn't a big deal and you probably won't notice a difference, but if you use a substantially higher octane (100+), you will get fouling and less power. You're just spending extra money for something that actually offers you a slight disbenefit.

Most of what you might want to know about octane rating can be found here http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Octane_rating . Basically, if you want to extract more performance out of your engine using a higher octane fuel, you have to increase the compression ratio and/or advance the timing to optimize the burn characteristics of the fuel.
 

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Very good info Mister Tee...I never really studied what the octane rating was all about.

There are a lot of octane threads floating around here. I think I am going to have to make one a reference sticky. But the short version of the answer is:

1. Using a higher octane than is required for your engine will not offer any more protection from detonation.

2. Higher-than-required octane gas does not burn cleaner or produce more power. In fact, it burns less clean, and has greater fouling tendencies, and produces less power as a result of a decreased burn rate. Using 91 where 87 is specified isn't a big deal and you probably won't notice a difference, but if you use a substantially higher octane (100+), you will get fouling and less power. You're just spending extra money for something that actually offers you a slight disbenefit.

Most of what you might want to know about octane rating can be found here http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Octane_rating . Basically, if you want to extract more performance out of your engine using a higher octane fuel, you have to increase the compression ratio and/or advance the timing to optimize the burn characteristics of the fuel.
 

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>If it's got 9000 miles on it and you're not sure whether it was switched to synthetic around the break in period...I would not change to synthetic now.

Why not?
I guess it woud be alright. I had it reversed in my head. You start break in with conventional oil, switch to synthetic after break in because the conv oil had helped the rings seat. So yeah, go for it.
 

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Lifter tick is unlikely. My guess is that if the oil was that old...it's probly got a rod bearing on it's way out. Did you see any flakes in the oil?

Ticking could be detonation as well. You're running premium, right?
Why would you go and say things like this with out actually hearing the noise? That's just going to send another newb into a state of panic. A ticking noise is fairly common with these bikes and isn't really anything to worry about, no real problem or threat to the bike. I'd hope someone would know the difference in a small tick and a rod starting to knock!
 

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Are we talking pre-detonation or detonation?
Sort of an academic question but I see where you're going with that. Pinging, knocking and detonation isn't an all-or-nothing deal (well not exactly true, detonation is.) Pinging and knocking (or pre-detonation) is when the flame front travels fast enough to create a shock wave on the piston and combustion chamber. Detonation is an actual explosive combustion where the entire mixture ignites at once. A very light ping is not damaging to the engine, but if it's heavy enough to be heard or felt, it is. Detonation is very destructive.

When I say "offers more protection" I mean in terms of damage to your engine.
 

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Sort of an academic question but I see where you're going with that. Pinging, knocking and detonation isn't an all-or-nothing deal (well not exactly true, detonation is.) Pinging and knocking (or pre-detonation) is when the flame front travels fast enough to create a shock wave on the piston and combustion chamber. Detonation is an actual explosive combustion where the entire mixture ignites at once. A very light ping is not damaging to the engine, but if it's heavy enough to be heard or felt, it is. Detonation is very destructive.

When I say "offers more protection" I mean in terms of damage to your engine.
Ok, I agree that it doesnt really offer more protection in and of itself...but in a way...it does, if you're worried about pre-detonation. On a high compression motor the theory is the same as a boosted car. A lower octane rating has a higher burn rate and has the capability to pre-detonate more so than a lower burn rate premium fuel.

I'm pretty sure we're on the same page, so it's all good.
 

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Why would you go and say things like this with out actually hearing the noise? That's just going to send another newb into a state of panic. A ticking noise is fairly common with these bikes and isn't really anything to worry about, no real problem or threat to the bike. I'd hope someone would know the difference in a small tick and a rod starting to knock!
Hey man, I asked the proper questions. He never answered them. I said that if there were metal flakes in the oil, and the oil seemed super old that it could be a rod bearing on it's way out. Even then....what's the big deal? I'd hope nobody would take one persons input as gold. You always work from the smallest possibility and work to the larger more complicated ones. Simple as that.
 

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HI guys,

GSXR's are high compression high revving engines (12.5:1 and +-16000rpm) you need to run as high octane as possible, the octane available at your local garage will be related to your level above sea. at sea level we have no lesser than 95 available. and even up here in Johannesburg (+-1400m) we have 93 and 95 available, 95 being for your higher performance engines. If you check your owner manual you will read it states the highest possible pump octane. Even my Car's manual states it should run on 95 - 98 octane. It is all due to the fact that it is high compression high revving high performance engines.
 

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HI guys,

GSXR's are high compression high revving engines (12.5:1 and +-16000rpm) you need to run as high octane as possible, the octane available at your local garage will be related to your level above sea. at sea level we have no lesser than 95 available. and even up here in Johannesburg (+-1400m) we have 93 and 95 available, 95 being for your higher performance engines. If you check your owner manual you will read it states the highest possible pump octane. Even my Car's manual states it should run on 95 - 98 octane. It is all due to the fact that it is high compression high revving high performance engines.
No, sir. I am not in concurrence with you. There are a million octane threads on this site and it has been discussed to death. You are best off using the minimum octane that is specified for your bike.

Knocking and detonation is MUCH MORE COMPLICATED than simply compression and RPM.
 
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