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Discussion Starter #1
Then try this low $ improvement that worked wonders on my K5 1000.

if you have a OEM, or aftermarket steering damper
- try and take it off and bleed the air of it and tip it off with a suitable weight fork oil.

On my ride, after 15 years, the OEM had got a bit of air in it, and wasa doing nothing for the first 15mm of travel!
Now, it's got resistance when you begin to move it!

Then- and I know way more bikes need this one than actually get it done:
when a bike has 'been around the block' if you know what I mean-
even the well set stock OEM steering head bearings can loosen up ever so slightly- and they nearly all will over time.
View some Youtoobs on it, and pretty much for free, snug up the proper way the steering head bearings.
Yes, you can completely rebuild them too- more $$ though, end result may be the same as snugging up the OEM ones.
ON mine I kept thinking the front fairing was loose, cause over little/any bumps, it would make a noise I thought for sure was a loose fairing mount.
Never found one though. So after this snugging of the hear bearings- Problem solved! Soo much smoother over bumps, turns, etc.

Try it, let me know how it goes.

You're welcome 馃

The end
 

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If your bearings were that loose, you might have an indent or notch where they like to settle. The youtube videos show that. If so, you need to replace the bearings. Also note that you're supposed to check the tension with a spring scale.

The steering nut and its locknut are tightened with a strange and quite expensive two part socket. The first, 09940-14911, has four tangs to engage the second, 09940-14960, which has three to engage the nuts. Ironically the nuts have six slots for the tangs. Note that the lock nut gets torqued fairly tight, 65 ft-lb. Some cheaper aftermarket equivalent sockets use the same screwy design. I made my own one piece socket from a deep hex socket and cut six tangs instead of three. It's nice but was a pain in the butt to make.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
If your bearings were that loose, you might have an indent or notch where they like to settle. The youtube videos show that. If so, you need to replace the bearings. Also note that you're supposed to check the tension with a spring scale.

The steering nut and its locknut are tightened with a strange and pricey two part socket. The first, 09940-14911, has four tangs to engage the second, 09940-14960, which has three that engage the nuts. Ironically the nuts have six slots for the tangs. Note that the lock nut gets torqued fairly tight, 65 ft-lb. Cheaper aftermarket equivalent sockets use the same screwy design. I made my own one piece socket from a deep hex socket and cut six tangs instead of three. It's nice but was a pain in the butt to make.
Yes Bill, I know. And I read about the spring scale- with the damper off.
Know anyone that uses one?

I just used my neighbors big ass socket that fit the top nut IIRC- 36mm?
and I use a piece of steel, and a hammer for the lock ring nuts.
It works too.

There is no notch, I felt it turn with front end of the bike suspended- not but it's front end though, and with the damper disconnected. Nice and smooth.
 

SuperMod of the North
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Oh Boy. Yeah, I know a guy...used a fish weight scale. I think what Bill is cringing about is you want to be using the least amount of force necessary both to disassemble and to torque. Tough to torque to spec with a hammer.
 
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