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Discussion Starter #1
Okay so these last few days since I replaced the rectifier I've been riding as much as possible. Prob 200 miles or so and another issue sprung up. It seems especially when warm and I pull up to a light or stop it's idling weird. I made a video of the issue and it was too large to put on here but I uploaded it to YouTube and the link is below. In the video the bike is warm because I just got back from a ride and was checking battery voltages because I just replaced the r/r a few days ago. The bike right at start up sounds off and stumbly and then seems to smooth out a few seconds later(until it decides to act up again). This will also happen at stops along the ride but only seemed to be bad enough to notice last night. On acceleration it seems fine, but this is coming from someone who has only ridden this bike 6/7 times. New for me and it's looking like it's possible a pos in disguise cause the bike looks pretty good. The bike does have a PC3 installed but I have no idea if the map is garbage or not. I do however know the exhaust on the bike looks like a full yoshi, the airbox is all stock because I was just in there when I fixed the r/r. I think it's also had at least one of the sprockets changed because the speedo is around 20% off. i can't imagine Suzuki would allow such a huge variance/ discrepancy in +- mph. I mention the PC3 and have a video of what it looks like on start up. It looks to my untrained eye like it's never getting extra fuel as it should cause it reads well below the 0 mark and even with the small revs in the video it never goes into the positive side of the fuel map. I looked at dynojet.com and there's no maps for download for my k6 600? I'm currently uploading the PC3 video on YouTube and will post a link to it as soon as it finishes. Thank you for reading this sorry so long winded.
1) short idle video
 

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SuperMod of the North
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Maybe I am missing it but my 2010 600 sounded just the same. It wandered a bit at idle but smoothed out nice when asked. Then again...maybe mine had an issue I wasn't aware of? It rode great and was very reliable.
 

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What year and model bike?

Immediately on start up it is missing on one cylinder but starts firing after a couple of seconds. After that, the idle sounds about right.

I would replace the spark plugs first, as I'm guessing you don't know when they were done last, then see how it runs.

As far as the PC3, a map should be available but I would not do anything till you hook a computer to it and see what the tune is.

If the bike does not improve with the new spark plugs, unplug the PC3 from the injectors and see how it runs.
 
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Also, plug in a computer and check the throttle set points. When I'm doing a power commander check, I loop through this sequence twice because each adjustment can affect the others.

1) Set the idle speed to 1400.
2) Adjust the TPS.
3) Set the "zero" throttle position in the powercommander.

Also the k6 is now 14 years old. Checking the throttle body balance would be a good idea. It also brings to question the age of the plugs and overall health of the engine. A compression test might also be warranted. Since it sounds like it's missing, it might have a bit of an issue that is sealed up a bit when the oil gets to it. Might be worth piece of mind to do it.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
So I've gotten the fuel map downloaded from the bike and in the notes it says stock exhaust and stock air filter. I have also contacted DynoJet because there were no tunes available for my bike in the tunes section for some reason. I got two tunes sent over. One is for full yoshi exhaust, stock or aftermarket filter and the other is yoshi slip-on with stock or aftermarket air filter. Both are pretty different then the stock tune table. I can't tell what the hell head pipe is on the bike but it doesn't seem to be stock and doesn't seem to be yoshi either. It has LeoVance springs on the exhaust but no makings for what it is. Would this crappy stick tune cause my my bike to run lean and cause this stumble at idle sometimes. Either way I got new plugs ready to go on I'm just making sure I have all tools needed to get it back together and running correctly possibly.
 

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I just went through this myself getting rid of the crappy exhaust the bike came with and fitting a new one. As Chuckster said go through those steps first. Set idle, tps, and throttle position on pc3 (Power commander tools>Set throttle position) DO NOT rev the bike without a load, start it up and use the kill switch and twist the throttle. You can round it off to nearest 500. Do all this with engine at operating temp btw

If after that you still have a lumpy idle balance the throttle bodies, that did the trick on mine. Again do this at operating temp. After having done that the idle smoothed out and the bike just drives better overall. Unless the tb's were perfectly balanced you should do the same cycle with tps, and pc3 throttle position (You will have set the idle correctly during balancing)

As far as maps go find one for an exhaust which is similar to yours and try it out. I used the map which felt better out of what is available and tweaked that one.
 
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