[XPOH]

I looked at the manual and I cannot figure wher it goes

Are you talking about this hose?

this hose is a drain hose from reservoir tank to the athmosphere.

it is secured by the clip near oil cooler hose

When the reservoir tank will overflows through the radiator cap, the coolant throw out through this hose. But in this case you should have reservoir tank full of coolant until engine cooled down. After the engine will cooled down some coolant sucked back into the radiator.

To check this pour the radiator to the top by coolant, pour reservoir tank to LOW (or MIN) mark, properly close the cap of the radiator, start the engine and warm it up to fan becomes. Watch for coolant level in the reservoir tank, it should not be over the MAX mark at all. If the coolant level becomes overfill, then I would change the thermostat and the radiator cap for the first step.

 

[Chuckster]

From post #17, that hose is the overflow drain. You see the hose going into the bottom of the expansion tank. That's where the exchange described above occurs. The other end should go to the radiator neck. The hose you have hanging free should go to the top of the expansion tank. It's there so when things go sideways, you don't.

 

[QRO]

Yes, I confirm overflow pipe. I have just done the FFF job and mine is fixed like this at the bottom;

My radiator also has that slightly white powdery appearance around the joints at the radiator, I think it is normal and not corrosion (or at least only slight corrosion).

 

[Yellow Submarine]

White powder on aluminum (aluminium) is aluminum oxide. Essentially rust. It is the metal deteriorating away. I’d highly recommend using some rust/corrosion preventative after a good clean.

The white deposit I commented on is from using tap water to mix with antifreeze. Ever notice the white deposits that form in a kettle or coffee pot? It’s the same stuff. Except it’s in your engine/cooling system.

There, it will do 2 things. 1st it will form an insulating layer where coolant contacts the exterior of the cylinder walls. 2nd it will plug up small coolant passages in the cylinder head and radiator.

IOW, use distilled or deionized water when you service your coolant. Tap water will work in a pinch to get you home but should be removed and replaced with distilled water as soon as the means are available.

Lastly, use good quality coolant. One that prevents aluminum erosion from the inside of your engine.

 

[QRO]

Thanks for the preventative suggestion. In my case, I'm completely not concerned because I was going to replace the radiator anyway. It's absolutely wrecked and I am surprised it works as well as it does. Gets hot quick but the rad fan covers a fairly clear area. The centre of it is just a mass of corrosion and bent fins in a solid surface. LOL. But, hey, it was a hot summer and it still worked OK at speed.


I saw it on ebay for £100, and had it in my watch list, noticed it had dropped to £60 one day so bought it, and it went back up. Still in a box, can swap in an instant if needed.

Obviously a pattern part, the original from Suzuki is £1000.

A £1000 for a radiator!!

 

[QRO]

IOW, use distilled or deionized water when you service your coolant. Tap water will work in a pinch to get you home but should be removed and replaced with distilled water as soon as the means are available.

Lastly, use good quality coolant. One that prevents aluminum erosion from the inside of your engine.

We did this in the other thread I was pondering on this. I got the Mannol AF13++ (premix) after over-thinking this with far too much time on my hands! It's a hybrid OATS, I think it's a very superior coolant. I will replace what's in there when I get enough momentum to do it, still rebuilding another bike atm.

I only use premix fluids now, in bikes and cars. I do have some bottles of distilled too, just for flushing, but I just find it easier to get premix coolant and washer fluids, works out no more expensive.

 

[MadisonMotorsportUK]

If it helps at all, I highly recommend John Deere CoolGard II. Not cheap but worth every penny. Comes in 25ltr pre-mixed drums from any JD agricultural/industrial dealer. Here in the UK it's normally around £70/drum. However, it lasts much longer than cheaper stuff.

I've been using it in bikes for over 10 years.

 

[Yellow Submarine]

My preferred coolant is from Chevron. They sell an extra heavy duty coolant that is compatible with essentially every internal combustion engine on the planet. In fleet use, it can go 100,000 miles before a change is required.

The fleet I worked on rarely got anywhere remotely close to that kind of use. Even the hour meter rating is so substantial it amounts to never needing replacement until the 10 year recommended interval.

I found it so superior to any other coolant I’ve ever used that I buy it when I can, where I can. I found it on Amazon for around $60 a gallon. It’s in my Honda Accord, my 996, Aprilia and the Yellow Submarine. Oh, and my Suburban too.

Prolly get some more soon as I need to replace the water pump in my Pathfinder and it hasn’t had the coolant replaced. It’s a 2003 so past time for replacement.

 

[QRO]

Well, next time I make some sort of inroads into really considering coolants then it'll be waterless coolants.

But I bought the AF13++ to fill up my bike having drained off some questionable antifreeze so I bought it quick, and bought enough to do all my bikes.

That's enough for several years. I hope to keep at least one, but probably not two in the future, and a 3rd being built up.

 

[Chuckster]

You guys are way overthinking this. Other than freezing, tap water with a surfactant is fine. Aluminum oxidizes and you're not going to stop it. A little lubricant would be the only thing you might want to add just so the water pump bushing has a little protection. A couple tablespoons of Marvel's Mystery Oil in the system and you're golden.

 

[QRO]

That's a good idea actually. I will check the Mannol to look at lubricity.

 

[Yellow Submarine]

Not overthinking. Following best practices learned from maintaining a fleet of over 1400 vehicles. One with over 50 locations world wide.

 

[QRO]

On that minor thought, I like overthinking things, it's a hobby.

How can you like riding motorcycles if you don't like overthinking things! Get a car!

 

[XPOH]

Better overthinking than underthinking I think 😀

 

[MadisonMotorsportUK]

I personally wouldn't use tap water from any cities the UK in any cooling system because of the amount of limescale present. I'm sure you've seen what limescale does to a kettle, do you really want that crap on your cooling system?

I'm lucky enough to live in a soft water area so my kettles last for years

 

[Ozsyd600]

I personally wouldn't use tap water from any cities the UK in any cooling system because of the amount of limescale present. I'm sure you've seen what limescale does to a kettle, do you really want that crap on your cooling system?

I'm lucky enough to live in a soft water area so my kettles last for years

When the first moved back to the UK I seriously thought that milk was supplied via the tap. I’ve never seen “water” like it. And I’ve lived in some remote and not so first world places too.

Hell, even the water out of my bore on the farm doesn’t affect kettles etc. I wouldn’t put it in a vehicle though. Goodness knows what’s in it.

 

[Chuckster]

I use tap water in mine, but I do run it through the Brita pitcher first. There's a finite amount of water and minerals there. Not like a coffee maker where it gets more and more water over time to carry in more minerals. A flush at the end of the season... rinse repeat.

 

[jamson]

Sorry for the late reply, but depending on where you all stay at, out here in California we have been hit with multiple storms. With that being said, I was able to flush the system, and change the oil, and I ran the bike, and finally the temp dropped from 250 to 223. I ordered a radiator cap, which will be in this week hopefully. Because when I was running it, coolant was spitting out from the cap. Now when I was running it, I have noticed there was some fuel leaking, and I found the leak, would it be a good idea to use the hose clamp to stop it ?

 

[XPOH]

Now when I was running it, I have noticed there was some fuel leaking, and I found the leak, would it be a good idea to use the hose clamp to stop it ?

Where is the leak, exactly? Please, give any pics.

 

[jamson]