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Discussion Starter #21
I have the service manual downloaded and have reviewed the disassembly process, but can the secondary injectors be pulled out for cleaning without actually removing the fuel rail? Just thinking less chance of messing something up. I can rig a fitting to attach between the injector and spray cleaner. Does any cleaner actually work better than the others? Thanks. I'm planning on doing this Saturday.
Karl
 

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I have the service manual downloaded and have reviewed the disassembly process, but can the secondary injectors be pulled out for cleaning without actually removing the fuel rail? Just thinking less chance of messing something up. I can rig a fitting to attach between the injector and spray cleaner. Does any cleaner actually work better than the others? Thanks. I'm planning on doing this Saturday.
Karl
Not sure to be honest, With pulling the fuel rail only thing that you have to pay attention to is the o-rings on the injectors and where they mount up to the throttle body. You don't want to pinch or lose one by accident. Or put two in the same hole like I did once... As far as cleaner goes pretty much any carb cleaner will work. You just need voltage applied to the injector to open it. A 9 volt battery and 2 sets of alligator clamps works well. I'd say it's maybe a 2/10 on the difficulty scale.
 

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I like 2+2 when it comes too the spray fi and carb and choke cleaners, also I think sea foam could work for your project. I’d have to disagree with who ever said there all the same it don’t matter what kind. Most of the sprays you find now at your parts store are environmentally friendly and do not work as well as 2+2. You could also try soaking the injectors in kerosene.
 

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Discussion Starter #24 (Edited)
I removed the fuel delivery tube/ fuel injectors. I cleaned each injector individually with the spray/ intermittent 12v method I saw on y-tube. I can't say any of the secondary Injectors were dirty, and all four seemed to fire properly. All four primary injectors had a "V" shaped fan spray pattern. Not sure what to check next before re-installing the fuel rail / injectors. The injectors appeared to fire ok when I cleaned them, so I assume if the ECU wasn't sending an injector voltage to fire or if there was another electrical problem with them I would be getting a code.
This is really driving me crazy!!
ALSO, the other day I had to ride in the rain. Since I was starting out on wet roads with cold tires I put the bike in "B" mode. The bike REALLY ran like a dog off the line! Not sure if that info helps or not.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
The other day I removed the fuel rail and cleaned all 8 injectors. They appeared to spray better after a few quick blasts of the cleaner going through them, but I can't say any were clogged. I found the Secondary injectors spray one nice wide cone pattern, and the primary injectors spray a dual or "V" shaped cone pattern. The bike runs a little better, especially above 5K, but still not normal. Revving the engine at idle still sounds muffled to me.
In a few days I'm going to pick up a fuel pressure gauge and check the pressure. Next I'll remove the right side panel and O2 sensor to see if relieving any pressure adds power (CAT plugging up). Still baffled and still no codes.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Today I checked the coils, and all were in spec according to the device manual. I also checked the battery. Here is a pic of the findings. I also removed the O2 sensor and went for a ride to see if relieving some back pressure would boos performance, ie. Maybe the CAT is clogging up and causing a restriction. There was no improvement in performance. Wednesday I am going to get a fuel pressure gauge so I can see if the pump is up to spec.
 

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"when I pull that fuel rail and look at the injectors I'll be able to see the screens on the output side of the injectors"

I hope you realize by now that the screens are on the inlet side.

Hooking up a fuel pressure gauge so you can read the pressure while you ride is the ultimate way to diagnose fuel pump problems. But it's a hassle that's normally unnecessary, i.e. the flow test is enough. You may be the exception, particularly since that dirty strainer makes me wonder what else had happened. The strainer is cleanable but back flushing the main filter is generally a waste of time. The fuel pressure while riding will tell all. What you're looking for is whether the pressure is maintained under high demand conditions, i.e. high load and RPM. How about swapping the primary and secondary injectors? At first I also thought that your problem was with the injectors. But after what you've done, I'm thinking that the problem may be elsewhere.

I wonder about the SET valve even though you've done some checking. In your video, it doesn't seem to cycle quite as far as I'd expect. I'd try to avoid unbolting the cables at their clamps as readjusting them is a bunch of work. But you might be able to remove the pulley at the exhaust without disturbing the cables. If so you ought to be able to check for 90° of movement and it ought to be possible to unconnect the cables from the pulley and set the valve to full open. Not sure about yours but the valve may be spring loaded to full open. Wire it open if there's any question of it not remaining open. Then unplug the actuator connectors and go for a ride. You'll get a C46 error but that's OK for testing.

Just to be sure, check that the hoses to the MAP sensor are connected and OK. A kinked fuel hose is possible but you should have noticed that by now. I assume that you've never had the throttle body off. I also wonder if your secondary throttle sensor and/or actuator might be acting up.
 

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Discussion Starter #29 (Edited)
Billy,
I'll check into your suggestions as soon as I can. The loss of power is evident to me even revving the bike up to 6,000 or so from idle. I can excellerate up to 11+ k and have plenty of power through those rpms. Just haven't tried higher, I don't beat the bike. I was probably in 4th when I ran it up that high to shift. But, there are days the bike feels loagy in everything but first gear below 5k or so. This happens especially if I put it in "B" mode.
By the way, unless I am missing something in the device manual and in the parts supply company diagrams, my L1 only has one filter/ strainer as Suzuki calls it. This is at the bottom of the fuel pump assembly and resembles a white tea bag with a plastic connector on it.
 

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I like to say that the strainer is there to keep rocks, dead mice, and severed hands out of the pump motor. Very little filtering beyond that is done there. The real filtering is done by the "regulator" that sits on the pump motor outlet and consists of a pressure regulator and the main filter (probably 10 micron rating). That's normally what clogs up. Of the $115 price, about $30 is the regulator and $85 is the filter.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
So possibly the finer filter on the regulator is clogged up some since my other filter was as well. Does that mean it is okay to pull the regulator from the bracket that it's in, because the manual says never take the regulator out - that's why I missed that filter. Is it ok to carefully pull the regulator straight out, backflush the filter , re-oil the o-ring and put the regulator back in? Thanks if I get a quick answer I can do it this afternoon.
 

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I don't know why Suzuki doesn't want you to pull the regulator out of the filter. I'm fairly sure that you can do it, I happen to have a K7 1000 pump with a very similar "regulator" and have done it. It's no big deal. The drawing in the parts fiche shows the pressure regulator and its O-ring separate from the filter body. But there's no such drawing in the service manual and an admonition to never take it apart. However backflushing the filter is generally a waste of time IMO. Furthermore you've previously performed the flow test and got a reasonable flow rate. It's been years since I removed my regulator but I don't recall being able to then see the filter element inside the housing.

Your acceptable flow rate is why I've been wondering about other explanations.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
ok. I read your information about the set valve and possibly not turning 90° but from pictures I've seen with people's cat cut off of the pipe, it appears that mine opens fully. I could try disconnecting right there at the cat to make sure it is fully open and see if I get any different performance. I know I keep saying it over and over again but when I rev the bike up it definitely sounds restricted or muffled to me so there's got to be either not enough fuel, not enough air flow out of the exhaust or something that's causing it to act like that. it doesn't rev up quick and crisp like it did originally.
 

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The parts fiche seems to indicate that the cat is integral to the header. Is that correct? If they separate, you could remove the cat and watch the valve turn when you turn the ignition on.

It would also give you a view of the catalyst. But except for mechanical damage, i.e. collapsed honeycomb, I don't know what such a view would provide. My general impression is that the cat is fairly robust.
 

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Discussion Starter #35 (Edited)
Well the pulley came off easily with a 12 mm socket but once I take the actuator from the cables off and pull the spring the butterfly spins 360 degrees easily. internally the butterfly does not hit any kind of stop to put it fully open.
I realized that it does not appear that my set valve and spring were properly installed. The top portion of the spring was not placed to the left behind the tab on the exhaust pipe, and the other portion of the spring was not hooked onto the faceplate behind an obvious hooked tab of the set valve plate that the cables attach to. Now that common sense told me it should have been set up a different way it appears that at higher RPMs the valve rotates to the right until the stop actually touches the tab built into the exhaust if that makes any sense. I just have to wait for the rain to stop to take it for a ride. And see if there is any improvement.
since neither tab on the ends of the spring were connected to anything it never actually offered any assistance to put the valve in the proper position.
 

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That's awfully strange for the spring to come undone. Hard to figure how it could happen other than by someone's hand. I happened to have a couple pics of a K6 1000 valve, which has a fairly similar construction. Here's the best shot of the spring:


You can see the spring end tight against the left side of the horizontal stop bar and the tab on the pulley tight against the bar's right side. Presumably that's the full open position.

Any chance that your spring sprung loose when you removed the nut, etc?
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Bill,. I'm not sure about the spring. I have the valve motor disconnected now and the spring is spring wide open. I also pulled the #30 brown/BLK wire so I don't get the FI light. Went on a ride, but wasn't on the right roads to ride hard. In some respects the bike ran better, but it still does not sound the same or as peppy. I don't want to cut my throat, but the bike has 16,525 miles. What are the sounds and symptoms if the valves are going out and need to be adjusted? I've heard it starts harder, which is not an issue with my bike. No one has mentioned that yet.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Billv,. The other thing I have not tried yet is your suggestion for cleaning the other finer filter on the fuel pump, but you said that usually doesn't work?
 
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