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Mod of the North
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Update 12 September.

The new to me upper fairing/head light stay/subframe arrived today. Anyone with an ‘89 mind getting a picture of the point where the upper fairing stay mounts to the steering head? Just to give me a better mental picture. Thanks in advance. Sub.
Stand by. It is two bolts on the front of the head stock.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Hmmmmm. I don’t think the subframe I’ve bought is correct…..the end that bolts to the steering head looks quite different to that. In fact, that looks more similar to what the 1992 OEM looks like. It is different though and the older head light bucket will not bolt to it. Looks like I may need fo weld up a hybrid version to make it all work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Here’s a few pics. I picked this up from eBay advertised as an upper fairing stay for a 1989 GSXR 750.
Tire Plant Automotive tire Wheel Bumper
Straight on from the front.

Bicycle part Bicycle accessory Wood Auto part Bicycle drivetrain part

Front 3/4 view from the left (clutch lever) side.

Bicycle part Bicycle handlebar Automotive exterior Tool Bicycle drivetrain part

Rear 3/4 view also from the left side. At least, I presume this to be the left side based upon how the headlight bucket fit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
I see only one bolt to go to the tabs on the front of the steering head. Not quite sure about the lower bit with the two holes.

I can certainly cut that off clean and add a suitable mounting tab but I’m unsure that is the wise thing to do.

It is possible this is from an earlier bike or there is a piece missing between that lower mount and the steering head.

Thoughts from the collective brain trust?
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
I guess the question now is, does anyone need an upper stay for an ‘87 resto who has an ‘89 stay and wants to trade….or just has an ‘89 stay they’d be willing to sell?
 

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Mod of the North
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That isn't an '89 as you have figured out.

Item 26 on this list is the correct part.

There are some partial views of mine mounted and empty at the beginning of this vid. It is poor at best. Be ready with the pause button...

 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
A few months back I ordered a PDR kit from Amazon. Primarily I got it for the dent puller frame as it’s heavy duty alloy.

The tank I got that I started off this thread with has a dent on the right side quite similar to the one in the picture I posted of the original tank.

It was not quite as deep but definitely not one that was going to come out easily. To that end, I got some bolts the same thread as the stick on ones that came with the dent puller.

Today I got the remaining paint out of the middle of the dent and welded a bolt mostly in the middle of the dent.
Tire Automotive tire Hood Motor vehicle Automotive exterior


The dent puller worked a treat using the welded on bolt and I was able to get the deepest parts out. It took me quite a while to work the dent out. I welded the bolt on and cut the welds off numerous times to get it to a point where the filler will not be thick.

It isn’t perfect but what is left is shallow enough that the filler will be barely as thick as a piece of card board from the back of a writing pad.
Hood Automotive tire Automotive lighting Azure Motor vehicle


I sprayed on some etching primer at the end of the day and slipped the tank back on the old oil boiler frame. Next time out I’ll get out the lightweight filler and get it smoothed out….though there is still the matter of the dent in the first pic of this tank.

Maybe I’ll get on that before I get started with the filler. More at some distant point when I have a few hours to work on the old girl.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Got out to the garage to pull on the left side tank dent. My $18 PDR kit worked a treat, just using the glue and “sticks” to pull the dent. This wasn’t just some minuscule dent either:
Motor vehicle Hood Automotive tire Automotive lighting Automotive design

Hood Automotive design Automotive exterior Automotive lighting Automotive decal


As can be seen from the tape measure reference, we’re talking 3 1/2” high x 5” long roughly. Nice thing with this dent is, the metal wasn’t stretched badly so that made it a prime candidate to try to work out using the PDR kit as delivered. Here is the same dent after a couple of hours work this afternoon:
Motor vehicle Automotive lighting Hood Automotive tire Automotive design

Grille Hood Automotive lighting Automotive tire Motor vehicle


It is very nearly there. Some minor pulls with the smaller “sticks” should be just about perfect. Hell, it isn’t bad now….probably could just grind the paint back and skim fill & prime.

Here’s a reference pic of the tools:
Wood Musical instrument Tool Ball-peen hammer Hand tool


The kit comes with its own hot glue gun & tool specific glue sticks. The only additional tool I used with pulling this dent is a hammer to lightly tap around the area being pulled to help tease the metal back out.

More later when I get around to a skim coat of filler & some primer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Did a few more “pulls” and then scraped the paint off and block sanded with some 180 grit to see where the low spots are:
Automotive lighting Hood Motor vehicle Automotive design Helmet


Considering how bad this started out, I’d call this a pretty acceptable result. Gonna try to pull the lowest ones and then get ready for filler.

I put a bit of mineral spirits in the tank and rolled it on the side where I did the last pull with the welded on studs….looks like I got a pin hole where one of the welds was. Once the mineral spirit evaporates off I get out the torch and silver solder before moving on to filler.
 

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Nice work Sir. Too bad you aren’t able to get a dolly block inside there, you could peen out the rest of those dents real nice.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Yeah, I had thoughts of cutting a hole in the bottom of the tank for just that purpose. The nightmare of trying to seal it back up led me to the puller solution.

The filler sitch should be fairly straight forward. I made a gauge to make sure I get the contour right and when I put it against the side of the tank, it looks like at most I’ll have 1/16” to build up. Thinner than that over the majority of the fill area though.

Found a source for the correct decals but am contemplating just cutting masks on my Cricut and painting the “R” and Hyper Sport on the tank. Would be a good excuse to pull my air brush out!
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Question for the collective brain trust:

Does anyone have the color names/codes for the ‘89 GSXR paint? Aside from the Pearl white at any rate. The 2 different blues are what I’m after. There is a darker & a lighter blue. The darker one appears to be a Navy blue which I can readily and easily get.

The other blue, I’ve no clue what to call that blue. Maybe just blue? Any input would be both helpful & appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 · (Edited)
Got out to work on the oil boiler tank. Welded up the area where I thought I had a pin hole. Added a bit of mineral spirits and nope, made it worse. Drained out the thinner waited a bit for it to flash off and ran a bead all the way around the area.

In with more thinner and so far it does not look like there are any leaks. Filed down the bead some so it's level with the higher spots. Still looks like there are no leaks. Will drain off the thinner and get to the filler/primer here in a bit.

One last dent I needed to take care of was inflicted during shipping as the box was very poorly packed. The vent valve Barb fitting was pushed in denting the vent hump in.

The solution to this was far simpler than I previously imagined. I’ve mulled over how to get that one out for some time now and today I was struck with inspiration. A piece of 2x6 and a claw hammer did the trick:
Hood Automotive lighting Automotive design Motor vehicle Automotive exterior

The paint snapped off where it was dented in. All good now though, just have to dress the barb fitting where the claw hammer slipped off. I’ll take it though.
 

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Question for the collective brain trust:

Does anyone have the color names/codes for the ‘89 GSXR paint? Aside from the Pearl white at any rate. The 2 different blues are what I’m after. There is a darker & a lighter blue. The darker one appears to be a Navy blue which I can readily and easily get.

The other blue, I’ve no clue what to call that blue. Maybe just blue? Any input would be both helpful & appreciated.
I had asked this same question in my 1100 build thread. I don;t remember if I got a definitive answer. It is one I will have to figure out if I ever want to get the bike painted.
 

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OK. I went back and dug around a bit. I think you would have a 1989 GSXR 750K with the 9SR color scheme. It took a little poking around but this thread has info you can chase. I haven't actually held a paint swatch against the bike to confirm if they are correct.

 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
I took a punt (not literally) and hit up the Color Rite website. They show all the available blue colors from Suzuki along with the Suzuki paint code. There are different (later) versions of each of these.

As these were the original codes, I figure they must be the ones I’m after. All the others have the same color name followed by a #2 or #3 in the case of the medium blue.

Font Screenshot Parallel Rectangle Number

Font Screenshot Multimedia Web page Software

Font Screenshot Multimedia Number Parallel


I’m further guessing the last one is the 3rd blue used on the GSXR-R Limited. Hmmm.

I can probably have our local paint guy match those rather than paying $30 plus shipping for a single spray can of one of these.

Also…..seeing that 3rd blue gives me some ideas. 😁
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
Got out to the garage for a bit this afternoon. Sun was shining and while chilly…it was warm enough in the sun for filler to cure. I mixed up a small batch of lightweight body filler and applied it to the bullet proof repair job I made week or so back. I’d already sanded that back with some 220.

After applying the filler, I left the tank in the sun for the filler to cure. Some time later, I knocked off all the high spots in the filler with a wood rasp. I find it to be the most efficient at removing filler down to a sandable level without making a huge mess.

Went after it with some 220 and a sanding block to level the filler out and feather the edges. Seems to have come out quite well. Might need a skim coat to get rid of the deeper gouges from the rasp, but overall I think it looks pretty good. Once I get the chance to skim coat and sand, it’ll be ready to prime.
Sky Slope Snow Freezing Geological phenomenon


Automotive parking light Automotive lighting Hood Automotive design Vehicle


Hood Automotive lighting Automotive tire Motor vehicle Windscreen wiper


Water Fluid Liquid Fish Electric blue


Hood Automotive lighting Automotive tire Sleeve Vehicle


That brings things up to date. Next, the skim coat & primer then on to the other side. As that side pulled out without having to resort to welding anything, it is sound and doesn’t leak. Should just require a skim coat of filler and that’s it. We shall see. More later
 
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