Stand by. It is two bolts on the front of the head stock.
Project Beginnings
I happened to have a 1992 750 in my garage that I haven’t ridden in 20 years. It’s been the subject of several aborted projects over the years.
Now if you’re reading this and thinking “exactly how does one just happen to have an oil boiler 750?” read on.
Many years ago I was stationed at Tyndall AIr Force Base, just outside Panama City, Florida. Across the street from the apartment complex where I lived, another military guy had a 1992 GSXR 600. He and I wound up meeting as we were the only Sportbike riders on our street.
He had a buddy who’d just crashed his 1992 750. He introduced me, and we worked out a deal for the bike. The forks were banana shaped and the front wheel had been pushed back into the oil cooler. Half the body work was smashed or missing.
A buddy of mine trucked it over to my apartment where it basically sat under a cover until I moved here to California. I replaced the forks with a set off of a 1995 750. Had a steering stem machined and replaced the steering head bearings.
With the front end back together, I repaired the upper and replaced the lower with a one piece Airtech lower. I found a carbon front fender from Lockhart-Phillips on clearance and that pretty much completed the body.
After that, I got a new left side engine cover, an aftermarket steering damper and lastly, fixed the huge dent in the left side of the tank. I got rid of the pink graphics at that time and got the tank lined before painting it.
Lastly, now that the engine ran and I could actually ride the bike, I added a stage 3 jet kit from Factory Pro (they’re sorta local) and UNI foam filter pods, and then a 5 degree V&H ignition advance. The bike came with a D&D slip on with the factory header.
I rode it in that configuration for a number of years. From around 1997 until 2001 when I was hit on the freeway by an inattentive college kid in a (wait for it)…….a Volvo. (Our UK members will understand the joke) I fixed the majority of the damage but life took a turn about then.
That is how I just happened to have a 1992 750 in my garage.
So there have been several attempts to restore the old GSXR to riding condition but none have ever been seen through to successful completion.
As a consequence of that turn in life, the old oil boiler sat in my garage for a decade. I actually started on it as project with my youngest son in 2012….but he lost interest so, I did too.
I started again in 2014 but again life took another turn, work on my degree displaced the project so it was again shuffled to a corner of the garage.
A couple of months back, I finally moved the old GSXR onto my bike bench to prep for a renewed effort on this project.
I already have a massive project in a 1993 Ducati 900SS that I am in the middle of but the old GSXR is next up. To that end, tonight I scored a second, though damaged tank for $150 on eBay.
![Automotive design Helmet Postal scale Font Automotive lighting]()
No time like the present to resume collecting the parts that will be needed to return the bike not just to riding condition but to make it a resto-mod of similar vintage that isn’t just plain black like it currently sits.
Consider this just a teaser….it’ll be some time before I’m done with the 900SS
Now if you’re reading this and thinking “exactly how does one just happen to have an oil boiler 750?” read on.
Many years ago I was stationed at Tyndall AIr Force Base, just outside Panama City, Florida. Across the street from the apartment complex where I lived, another military guy had a 1992 GSXR 600. He and I wound up meeting as we were the only Sportbike riders on our street.
He had a buddy who’d just crashed his 1992 750. He introduced me, and we worked out a deal for the bike. The forks were banana shaped and the front wheel had been pushed back into the oil cooler. Half the body work was smashed or missing.
A buddy of mine trucked it over to my apartment where it basically sat under a cover until I moved here to California. I replaced the forks with a set off of a 1995 750. Had a steering stem machined and replaced the steering head bearings.
With the front end back together, I repaired the upper and replaced the lower with a one piece Airtech lower. I found a carbon front fender from Lockhart-Phillips on clearance and that pretty much completed the body.
After that, I got a new left side engine cover, an aftermarket steering damper and lastly, fixed the huge dent in the left side of the tank. I got rid of the pink graphics at that time and got the tank lined before painting it.
Lastly, now that the engine ran and I could actually ride the bike, I added a stage 3 jet kit from Factory Pro (they’re sorta local) and UNI foam filter pods, and then a 5 degree V&H ignition advance. The bike came with a D&D slip on with the factory header.
I rode it in that configuration for a number of years. From around 1997 until 2001 when I was hit on the freeway by an inattentive college kid in a (wait for it)…….a Volvo. (Our UK members will understand the joke) I fixed the majority of the damage but life took a turn about then.
That is how I just happened to have a 1992 750 in my garage.
So there have been several attempts to restore the old GSXR to riding condition but none have ever been seen through to successful completion.
As a consequence of that turn in life, the old oil boiler sat in my garage for a decade. I actually started on it as project with my youngest son in 2012….but he lost interest so, I did too.
I started again in 2014 but again life took another turn, work on my degree displaced the project so it was again shuffled to a corner of the garage.
A couple of months back, I finally moved the old GSXR onto my bike bench to prep for a renewed effort on this project.
I already have a massive project in a 1993 Ducati 900SS that I am in the middle of but the old GSXR is next up. To that end, tonight I scored a second, though damaged tank for $150 on eBay.
No time like the present to resume collecting the parts that will be needed to return the bike not just to riding condition but to make it a resto-mod of similar vintage that isn’t just plain black like it currently sits.
Consider this just a teaser….it’ll be some time before I’m done with the 900SS
21 - 40 of 70 Posts
Here’s a few pics. I picked this up from eBay advertised as an upper fairing stay for a 1989 GSXR 750.
![Tire Plant Automotive tire Wheel Bumper]()
Straight on from the front.
![Bicycle part Bicycle accessory Wood Auto part Bicycle drivetrain part]()
Front 3/4 view from the left (clutch lever) side.
![Bicycle part Bicycle handlebar Automotive exterior Tool Bicycle drivetrain part]()
Rear 3/4 view also from the left side. At least, I presume this to be the left side based upon how the headlight bucket fit.
Front 3/4 view from the left (clutch lever) side.
Rear 3/4 view also from the left side. At least, I presume this to be the left side based upon how the headlight bucket fit.
Did a little digging. Based on the pictures in the IPB, the upper stay I have is from an ‘87 not an ‘89.
1987 GSXR750:
![Font Line Parallel Aviation Slope]()
1989 GSXR750:
![Auto part Engineering Font Parallel Drawing]()
1987 GSXR750:
1989 GSXR750:
A few months back I ordered a PDR kit from Amazon. Primarily I got it for the dent puller frame as it’s heavy duty alloy.
The tank I got that I started off this thread with has a dent on the right side quite similar to the one in the picture I posted of the original tank.
It was not quite as deep but definitely not one that was going to come out easily. To that end, I got some bolts the same thread as the stick on ones that came with the dent puller.
Today I got the remaining paint out of the middle of the dent and welded a bolt mostly in the middle of the dent.
![Tire Automotive tire Hood Motor vehicle Automotive exterior]()
The dent puller worked a treat using the welded on bolt and I was able to get the deepest parts out. It took me quite a while to work the dent out. I welded the bolt on and cut the welds off numerous times to get it to a point where the filler will not be thick.
It isn’t perfect but what is left is shallow enough that the filler will be barely as thick as a piece of card board from the back of a writing pad.
![Hood Automotive tire Automotive lighting Azure Motor vehicle]()
I sprayed on some etching primer at the end of the day and slipped the tank back on the old oil boiler frame. Next time out I’ll get out the lightweight filler and get it smoothed out….though there is still the matter of the dent in the first pic of this tank.
Maybe I’ll get on that before I get started with the filler. More at some distant point when I have a few hours to work on the old girl.
The tank I got that I started off this thread with has a dent on the right side quite similar to the one in the picture I posted of the original tank.
It was not quite as deep but definitely not one that was going to come out easily. To that end, I got some bolts the same thread as the stick on ones that came with the dent puller.
Today I got the remaining paint out of the middle of the dent and welded a bolt mostly in the middle of the dent.
The dent puller worked a treat using the welded on bolt and I was able to get the deepest parts out. It took me quite a while to work the dent out. I welded the bolt on and cut the welds off numerous times to get it to a point where the filler will not be thick.
It isn’t perfect but what is left is shallow enough that the filler will be barely as thick as a piece of card board from the back of a writing pad.
I sprayed on some etching primer at the end of the day and slipped the tank back on the old oil boiler frame. Next time out I’ll get out the lightweight filler and get it smoothed out….though there is still the matter of the dent in the first pic of this tank.
Maybe I’ll get on that before I get started with the filler. More at some distant point when I have a few hours to work on the old girl.
Got out to the garage to pull on the left side tank dent. My $18 PDR kit worked a treat, just using the glue and “sticks” to pull the dent. This wasn’t just some minuscule dent either:
![Motor vehicle Hood Automotive tire Automotive lighting Automotive design]()
![Hood Automotive design Automotive exterior Automotive lighting Automotive decal]()
As can be seen from the tape measure reference, we’re talking 3 1/2” high x 5” long roughly. Nice thing with this dent is, the metal wasn’t stretched badly so that made it a prime candidate to try to work out using the PDR kit as delivered. Here is the same dent after a couple of hours work this afternoon:
![Motor vehicle Automotive lighting Hood Automotive tire Automotive design]()
![Grille Hood Automotive lighting Automotive tire Motor vehicle]()
It is very nearly there. Some minor pulls with the smaller “sticks” should be just about perfect. Hell, it isn’t bad now….probably could just grind the paint back and skim fill & prime.
Here’s a reference pic of the tools:
![Wood Musical instrument Tool Ball-peen hammer Hand tool]()
The kit comes with its own hot glue gun & tool specific glue sticks. The only additional tool I used with pulling this dent is a hammer to lightly tap around the area being pulled to help tease the metal back out.
More later when I get around to a skim coat of filler & some primer.
As can be seen from the tape measure reference, we’re talking 3 1/2” high x 5” long roughly. Nice thing with this dent is, the metal wasn’t stretched badly so that made it a prime candidate to try to work out using the PDR kit as delivered. Here is the same dent after a couple of hours work this afternoon:
It is very nearly there. Some minor pulls with the smaller “sticks” should be just about perfect. Hell, it isn’t bad now….probably could just grind the paint back and skim fill & prime.
Here’s a reference pic of the tools:
The kit comes with its own hot glue gun & tool specific glue sticks. The only additional tool I used with pulling this dent is a hammer to lightly tap around the area being pulled to help tease the metal back out.
More later when I get around to a skim coat of filler & some primer.
Did a few more “pulls” and then scraped the paint off and block sanded with some 180 grit to see where the low spots are:
![Automotive lighting Hood Motor vehicle Automotive design Helmet]()
Considering how bad this started out, I’d call this a pretty acceptable result. Gonna try to pull the lowest ones and then get ready for filler.
I put a bit of mineral spirits in the tank and rolled it on the side where I did the last pull with the welded on studs….looks like I got a pin hole where one of the welds was. Once the mineral spirit evaporates off I get out the torch and silver solder before moving on to filler.
Considering how bad this started out, I’d call this a pretty acceptable result. Gonna try to pull the lowest ones and then get ready for filler.
I put a bit of mineral spirits in the tank and rolled it on the side where I did the last pull with the welded on studs….looks like I got a pin hole where one of the welds was. Once the mineral spirit evaporates off I get out the torch and silver solder before moving on to filler.
Got out to work on the oil boiler tank. Welded up the area where I thought I had a pin hole. Added a bit of mineral spirits and nope, made it worse. Drained out the thinner waited a bit for it to flash off and ran a bead all the way around the area.
In with more thinner and so far it does not look like there are any leaks. Filed down the bead some so it's level with the higher spots. Still looks like there are no leaks. Will drain off the thinner and get to the filler/primer here in a bit.
One last dent I needed to take care of was inflicted during shipping as the box was very poorly packed. The vent valve Barb fitting was pushed in denting the vent hump in.
The solution to this was far simpler than I previously imagined. I’ve mulled over how to get that one out for some time now and today I was struck with inspiration. A piece of 2x6 and a claw hammer did the trick:
![Hood Automotive lighting Automotive design Motor vehicle Automotive exterior]()
The paint snapped off where it was dented in. All good now though, just have to dress the barb fitting where the claw hammer slipped off. I’ll take it though.
In with more thinner and so far it does not look like there are any leaks. Filed down the bead some so it's level with the higher spots. Still looks like there are no leaks. Will drain off the thinner and get to the filler/primer here in a bit.
One last dent I needed to take care of was inflicted during shipping as the box was very poorly packed. The vent valve Barb fitting was pushed in denting the vent hump in.
The solution to this was far simpler than I previously imagined. I’ve mulled over how to get that one out for some time now and today I was struck with inspiration. A piece of 2x6 and a claw hammer did the trick:
The paint snapped off where it was dented in. All good now though, just have to dress the barb fitting where the claw hammer slipped off. I’ll take it though.
OK. I went back and dug around a bit. I think you would have a 1989 GSXR 750K with the 9SR color scheme. It took a little poking around but this thread has info you can chase. I haven't actually held a paint swatch against the bike to confirm if they are correct.
www.gsxr.com
Fairing repair and Paint
Hello: I have a 07 GSXR, the fairing are not in very good shape. I plan to paint the bike next year, its a track bike its no show bike. I wonder what people are using for fixing their fairing. I used JB Weld on the paint side and on the under side I used fiberglass repair. It held up better...
www.gsxr.com
I took a punt (not literally) and hit up the Color Rite website. They show all the available blue colors from Suzuki along with the Suzuki paint code. There are different (later) versions of each of these.
As these were the original codes, I figure they must be the ones I’m after. All the others have the same color name followed by a #2 or #3 in the case of the medium blue.
![Font Screenshot Parallel Rectangle Number]()
![Font Screenshot Multimedia Web page Software]()
![Font Screenshot Multimedia Number Parallel]()
I’m further guessing the last one is the 3rd blue used on the GSXR-R Limited. Hmmm.
I can probably have our local paint guy match those rather than paying $30 plus shipping for a single spray can of one of these.
Also…..seeing that 3rd blue gives me some ideas. 😁
As these were the original codes, I figure they must be the ones I’m after. All the others have the same color name followed by a #2 or #3 in the case of the medium blue.
I’m further guessing the last one is the 3rd blue used on the GSXR-R Limited. Hmmm.
I can probably have our local paint guy match those rather than paying $30 plus shipping for a single spray can of one of these.
Also…..seeing that 3rd blue gives me some ideas. 😁
Got out to the garage for a bit this afternoon. Sun was shining and while chilly…it was warm enough in the sun for filler to cure. I mixed up a small batch of lightweight body filler and applied it to the bullet proof repair job I made week or so back. I’d already sanded that back with some 220.
After applying the filler, I left the tank in the sun for the filler to cure. Some time later, I knocked off all the high spots in the filler with a wood rasp. I find it to be the most efficient at removing filler down to a sandable level without making a huge mess.
Went after it with some 220 and a sanding block to level the filler out and feather the edges. Seems to have come out quite well. Might need a skim coat to get rid of the deeper gouges from the rasp, but overall I think it looks pretty good. Once I get the chance to skim coat and sand, it’ll be ready to prime.
![Sky Slope Snow Freezing Geological phenomenon]()
![Automotive parking light Automotive lighting Hood Automotive design Vehicle]()
![Hood Automotive lighting Automotive tire Motor vehicle Windscreen wiper]()
![Water Fluid Liquid Fish Electric blue]()
![Hood Automotive lighting Automotive tire Sleeve Vehicle]()
That brings things up to date. Next, the skim coat & primer then on to the other side. As that side pulled out without having to resort to welding anything, it is sound and doesn’t leak. Should just require a skim coat of filler and that’s it. We shall see. More later
After applying the filler, I left the tank in the sun for the filler to cure. Some time later, I knocked off all the high spots in the filler with a wood rasp. I find it to be the most efficient at removing filler down to a sandable level without making a huge mess.
Went after it with some 220 and a sanding block to level the filler out and feather the edges. Seems to have come out quite well. Might need a skim coat to get rid of the deeper gouges from the rasp, but overall I think it looks pretty good. Once I get the chance to skim coat and sand, it’ll be ready to prime.
That brings things up to date. Next, the skim coat & primer then on to the other side. As that side pulled out without having to resort to welding anything, it is sound and doesn’t leak. Should just require a skim coat of filler and that’s it. We shall see. More later
21 - 40 of 70 Posts
