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Discussion Starter #1
My k9 1000 has been having issues with the rear brake since I had my last set of tires mounted. It has been put away for the winter since then. Literally nothing else has been done. I've pumped it 100 times. Bled it a little. Saw on another forum that they had the same issue with there r6, cleaned the pistons and it worked fine.

The rear brake does work just have to pressed down ridiculously hard. Any help is appreciated.
 

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Have you checked to make sure the brake disc is actually between the brake pads.

A friend of mine reinstalled the wheel on his gsxr with both pads on the outside as I remember.

Yes it can be done without too much effort.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Have you checked to make sure the brake disc is actually between the brake pads.

A friend of mine reinstalled the wheel on his gsxr with both pads on the outside as I remember.

Yes it can be done without too much effort.
You don't think that would make a hell of a noise? It's possible because my buddy lined that side up while I lifted the wheel. And we all know what a pain in the fucking dick it is to line the rotor up inbetween the pads without them getting all crooked. So I will check tomorrow since I am taking the wheels off anyways to be powder coated.
 

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Before you put the wheel, disc back in the pads. Use a large flat blade screwdriver and open them up about twice the width of the disc, so it slips in easier. (what she said anyways). Then pump them up, bled an appropriate way if needed. Good luck, let us know what happens.
 

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The caliper is a sliding or floating design, first used in 2007 and considered by Carroll Smith to be a crime against nature. They're very common on garden variety cars. The caliper slides right and left on pins as the pads wear. In that way a piston is only needed on one side of the rotor. Those pins can develop corrosion, which inhibits the sliding and brake effectiveness. Unbolt the caliper from the bracket and check the pins, seals, and spacers. Next, there can be corrosion between the piston and its bore. The only way to find out is to disassemble and inspect. I think it's also possible in a brain dead moment to install the rotor backwards, which screws things up.

This may help.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Before you put the wheel, disc back in the pads. Use a large flat blade screwdriver and open them up about twice the width of the disc, so it slips in easier. (what she said anyways). Then pump them up, bled an appropriate way if needed. Good luck, let us know what happens.
Thanks Todd,

I open then up with a screwdriver everytime and they still give me trouble. I probably took the wheels off/on a total of 7 time last year for both my bikes.

And no guys, the brake pads weren't both to one side!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The caliper is a sliding design, first used in 2007 and considered by Carroll Smith to be a crime against nature. The caliper slides right and left on pins as the pads wear. In that way a piston is only needed on one side of the rotor. Those pins can develop corrosion, which inhibits the sliding and brake effectiveness. Unbolt the caliper from the bracket and check the pins, seals, and spacers. Next, there can be corrosion between the piston and its bore. The only way to find out is to disassemble and inspect. I think it's also possible in a brain dead moment to install the rotor backwards, which screws things up.

Thanks man I will check it out this weekend. Rotors are all like new and were all facing the correct direction so it isn't that. And the rear brake does work it just works really shitty, lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Update:

While I had the caliper off I use the brake lever to push the piston all the way out and then with the reservoir cap off compressed the piston and added some brake fluid(dot 4 of course). I then adjusted the brake lever up significantly more to give me more leverage. (Had a fight with the cotter pin, lost some blood to it).

Now it is functioning what seems to be normally. Thanks for the help everyone.
 
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