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Your secondary butterflies are exactly what they state - secondary. As with any butterfly system, the more you open the butterfly the more of a gas/air mixture you are allowing through the system.

On these bikes, your initial butterflies open through a range as you accelerate. When you hit a certain rpm range your secondary set opens. When you are up in the range, there is no restriction of the gas/air mixture and it is a full flow system.

Compare this to an aftermarket exhaust... Less restriction (less baffles or baffling) = more (through) air flow, thus more power. If you need specifics, call the person I listed earlier. I just ride it and explain the way it was explained to me - I'm glad I had it done.
 

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I have the secondary throttle disabled on my bike right now because the actuator stopped moving correctly. I opened the throttle blades and disconnected the throttle actuator (just to get me though till the new actuator comes in). I noticed a lot of mid range power after doing this. Very responsive after 4k rpm. This is due to the instant airflow to the primary butterflies as opposed to waiting for the secondaries to open. Down low the bike will stumble, such as revving WOT from idle. Idle speed is 1400 cold and 2000 warm.
I personally dont like this due to the driveability. Sure, It has awesome throttle response, and Im sure it would run smoother with a tune, but The secondary throttle is to smooth the torque band instead of having instant on power.

I also hope that you all know the ECU controls the secondary so if removed how did you remove the FI light? Did you just remove the butterflies and leave the rod in? You should remove the rod as well to get tru benefit of whatever ya all after
 

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If done correctly you should see no drivability problem as you would need to have powercommander to adjust for it and dyno time. For the track your bike would respond better in Higher rpms as stated

I have the secondary throttle disabled on my bike right now because the actuator stopped moving correctly. I opened the throttle blades and disconnected the throttle actuator (just to get me though till the new actuator comes in). I noticed a lot of mid range power after doing this. Very responsive after 4k rpm. This is due to the instant airflow to the primary butterflies as opposed to waiting for the secondaries to open. Down low the bike will stumble, such as revving WOT from idle. Idle speed is 1400 cold and 2000 warm.
I personally dont like this due to the driveability. Sure, It has awesome throttle response, and Im sure it would run smoother with a tune, but The secondary throttle is to smooth the torque band instead of having instant on power.
 

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secondarys are for driveability mainly i took mine off because i launch at 5000rpm and i shift at 12,500. if you race get rid of the secondary. and slip in do help with the power band but a full system is best
 

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slip-ons dont make any power. they make more noise and thats all.
I do not know about slip-ons by themselves but, I have a buddy who tuned his K6 750 with the SET Valve connected, a stock air filter, Power Commander and Scorion Slip-on and made 10 more hp (it made more hp with the valve connected then disconnected). I have also seen a Busa with a PC, BMC filter and Yosh slip-ons make 169hp.

You can get power from a slip-on.
 

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I do not know about slip-ons by themselves but, I have a buddy who tuned his K6 750 with the SET Valve connected, a stock air filter, Power Commander and Scorion Slip-on and made 10 more hp (it made more hp with the valve connected then disconnected). I have also seen a Busa with a PC, BMC filter and Yosh slip-ons make 169hp.

You can get power from a slip-on.

he got the extra power from tuning it with a powercommander. now with the newer 600/750 it is possible to get more HP out of it since you are removing a catalytic converter. but a older 01-05 bike without a cat will not gain much if any HP. removing the set valve doesnt really give you a gain in HP, it just changes the RPM zone in which you get the HP.
 

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The ecu will work correctly but the bike will not and also throw a error code because your input is controlled by the ECU and the other valve is controlled by the throttle. Remove your airbox and look in there as when you turn the throttle only one set is moving. Ther is alot of other things that go on that is not mentioned, but You can remove remap and get some good results just as leaving in and remap get good results. If your into draging the bike i would take out but if your into curves trackday I would leave in as it will give you better throttle response and smoother down low.

If you just unplug the actuator/STPS will the ecu still work correctly? I'll be using a power commander to tune it, but I want to know if it will work on the way to the dyno.
 

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so all in all its just a driveability issue? Thats cool because the application I will be using has an intake manifold and restrictor, but I dont want the ECU having a fit and throwing the bike into lockdown because the actuators are unplugged.
 

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Holy Thread dig Batman!
On my K5 1000 and my K6 1000 I haven’t had the need to ever touch this system. I still can’t figure out why people wanna remove that system in the first place but to each his own. I know Chuck understands it but I’m not sure he’ll be posting on the thread from 2006 lol
 

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What do you do if you strip the screws? Mine in my 07 are tiny screws and been trying to get them out and have striped some of them.
Once they strip, you have to drill them. That means taking the throttle body off so you don't get shavings/debris into the cylinders. Why are you removing them? To get them out, you have to heat them up pretty good to get the thread locker to break free.
 
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