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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Everyone

I just finished fitting Renthal Clip-Ons to my K6 1000.

I positioned the bars the way I want them, but now the throttle cables foul the fairing. Specifically the metal elbows (circled) foul the right hand fairing (marked with a red "X") on full right lock.

My initial thoughts are to apply heat to the metal elbows and bend them up a little to clear the fairing. Just wondering what the good people of this forum think about this approach?

Thanks in advance for any thoughts.
 

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I had to look at my K6 750 to see what the issue was and never realized that the throttle cable tubes came that close to the fairing at full right lock. I have less than 1/4" clearance.

I don't think that bending the tubes is a good idea, My guess is they are pretty thin and probably somewhat brittle.

Rotating the throttle housing does not seem to help either. Can you move the housing in some to increase clearance? I don't see your master cylinder mounted yet but It does not look like you have a lot of room.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hi John

Thanks very much for the reply.

The only issue with moving the housing in is that the grip/throttle tube of course moves with it and I end up back with the narrow grip of the stock clip-ons that I am trying to move away from.

Yes that's right I tried rotating the housing too but it doesn't help.

I guess if the worst comes to the worst I can look at aftermarket throttles but they are expensive and need to be paired with an aftermarket start/kill switch.

Haha good spot I haven't attached the brake reservoir yet. That's a job for tomorrow. I just bought a tap and die set so I can do it properly.
 

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Looking at my bike again. It does look like you should be able to pick up some clearance by rotating the throttle housing clockwise looking at the end. Otherwise, moving the cable tubes aft.

Maybe you can get it to the point where it is only light contact at right.

Also, moving the bars forward would also help. I have mine set as wide as I can while still avoiding contact with the fairing below the windshield.

I have wider shoulders and found this position more comfortable and seemed to make the bike feel more nimble.
 
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I have the OEM bars on my K6 and there's nearly 7/8" clearance at full right lock. My first thought was that the Renthals have a greater angle that lowers the bars/housing/throttle tubes. But the Renthal website only mentions offset as if there's no angle, which I would think would increase the clearance. I observe that your housing sits well off of the mounting clamp and I gather that's to get a wider grip/stance that you mention. I don't like reducing the bend radius but with some cutting and brazing, you might be able to move things about 1/4" closer to the housing. You might also have to shorten the cables by the same amount.

But I'd think that bar angle is the key. Several years ago I tried to measure the OEM angle while on the bike and got 8¼°. No idea how accurate that number is. Around that time Renthal listed their CL110 as 7°. I don't see that any more.

On mine it looked like the clearance would increase if you rotated the housing counterclockwise getting the tubes as close as possible to the lever. But I think there's a pin on the housing that mates with a hole in the OEM bar to prevent that sort of thing.

I didn't realize that your reservoir wasn't mounted and was wondering why it looked so strange.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I have the OEM bars on my K6 and there's nearly 7/8" clearance at full right lock. My first thought was that the Renthals have a greater angle that lowers the bars/housing/throttle tubes. But the Renthal website only mentions offset as if there's no angle, which I would think would increase the clearance. I observe that your housing sits well off of the mounting clamp and I gather that's to get a wider grip/stance that you mention. I don't like reducing the bend radius but with some cutting and brazing, you might be able to move things about 1/4" closer to the housing. You might also have to shorten the cables by the same amount.

But I'd think that bar angle is the key. Several years ago I tried to measure the OEM angle while on the bike and got 8¼°. No idea how accurate that number is. Around that time Renthal listed their CL110 as 7°. I don't see that any more.

On mine it looked like the clearance would increase if you rotated the housing counterclockwise getting the tubes as close as possible to the lever. But I think there's a pin on the housing that mates with a hole in the OEM bar to prevent that sort of thing.

I didn't realize that your reservoir wasn't mounted and was wondering why it looked so strange.
Thanks for your reply. Yes I recall seeing 7 degrees for the Renthals somewhere too. And that's right, my housing sits well off the mounting clamp to get the wider grip I am looking for.

Re the locating pin, yes that's right. I had to drill an equivalent hole in the Renthal bar to accommodate the pin on the housing. The good thing about the Renthals compared to OEM is that even though the housing is "fixed" on the bar via the pin, you can rotate the entire bar within its clamp to fine tune the position.
 

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I read all the posts, then looked at the pic.
i was expecting to see it actually touching the front fairing, But no, it's hitting your air duct cover?

I've raised my clip ons nearly 2", but putting them above the tip triple tree. It took some adjusting of this and that, but it works well!
But this is not what you're doing. I assume you wanted a wider grip position? May different angle?

It it's hitting on the bottom, at full cock to the right, wouldn't rotating the it Counter-clockwise help more for clearance below?
 
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I realized that my right side cowling was partially off so I fully installed it and remeasured. I'm now getting 11/16" clearance at full lock. I also placed a steel scale along the underside of the throttle tubes to get an idea of how far along the OEM bar could the housing be moved before the tubes would contact the intake cover. It actually seems to me that they wouldn't touch it and instead the frame would limit things. Assuming that my 8¼° value is correct (no guarantee), I'd actually expect the 7° Renthals to give more clearance unless they're mounted lower on the fork tube. So things don't make total sense.

Clip-on manufacturers tend to mention offset nowadays instead of bar angle. I'd think that both are important. Also I'd expect "offset" to be the distance from the bar centerline to the fork centerline. But I don't think that's how it's being measured (witness the Attack Performance zero offset clip-on). Finally the Renthal CL110 seems to use a bar that screws onto the fork clamp. I'm unimpressed as there will be a stress riser in the female bar threads at the point where they first meet the clamp. That could lead to the bar snapping off under high steering force or long term normal use.

I assume that the OEM bar is pressed into the casting that clamps onto the fork tube. I wonder if it would be possible to press it out and replace it by a longer bar. Alternately I wonder if you could make a 1" or 2" long bar and use it to extend the OEM bar by using an inner tube epoxied in place to connect the two parts.

A disadvantage to rotating the housing counterclockwise any meaningful amount is that it will make the START button hard to reach.
 

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Bill, as opposed to heating, do you think he may gain a bit if he bent it cold with a decent brake line tube bender? Conversely, if the flange that traps it to the housing is pressed on could he try to press it further on the tube and trim the excess to raise it up? Would be limited by how much adjustment if left in the cable. I don't have these cables and can't picture the business end of them.
 
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^I just don't like decreasing the bend radius as it will increase friction/wear on something that you want to move as freely as possible. I haven't pulled mine off but suspect that the flange is welded or brazed to the tube rather than pressed on. Otherwise you ought to be right about pressing it further on. If he's hell bent on bending it, I think two accepted methods are to fill the tube with sand or fill it with water and freeze it. But the bender must match the tube OD. The sand method might actually work with a heated tube.
 

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I didn't like the idea of bending much but you work with what you got. EDIT, never mind, the suggestion I edited out won't work...
 
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Discussion Starter #13
I read all the posts, then looked at the pic.
i was expecting to see it actually touching the front fairing, But no, it's hitting your air duct cover?

I've raised my clip ons nearly 2", but putting them above the tip triple tree. It took some adjusting of this and that, but it works well!
But this is not what you're doing. I assume you wanted a wider grip position? May different angle?

It it's hitting on the bottom, at full cock to the right, wouldn't rotating the it Counter-clockwise help more for clearance below?
That's correct, it touches the air duct cover where the red "X" is in the photo.

Yes I saw the photos on another thread showing your clip-ons above the top triple tree. Looks like a good way of raising the height of the bars. I am looking for a wider grip, with the bars swept further forward. I tried rotating the housing counter-clockwise, and it helped with the clearance issue some. However, it created a new issue in that I had to rotate the housing so far it left the starter button in an awkward place (facing down) which I am not keen on. If I need to access the starter in a hurry (eg if the bike stalls when pulling out of a junction) I prefer to have the switch right by my thumb, than have to go fishing for it.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
I realized that my right side cowling was partially off so I fully installed it and remeasured. I'm now getting 11/16" clearance at full lock. I also placed a steel scale along the underside of the throttle tubes to get an idea of how far along the OEM bar could the housing be moved before the tubes would contact the intake cover. It actually seems to me that they wouldn't touch it and instead the frame would limit things. Assuming that my 8¼° value is correct (no guarantee), I'd actually expect the 7° Renthals to give more clearance unless they're mounted lower on the fork tube. So things don't make total sense.

Clip-on manufacturers tend to mention offset nowadays instead of bar angle. I'd think that both are important. Also I'd expect "offset" to be the distance from the bar centerline to the fork centerline. But I don't think that's how it's being measured (witness the Attack Performance zero offset clip-on). Finally the Renthal CL110 seems to use a bar that screws onto the fork clamp. I'm unimpressed as there will be a stress riser in the female bar threads at the point where they first meet the clamp. That could lead to the bar snapping off under high steering force or long term normal use.

I assume that the OEM bar is pressed into the casting that clamps onto the fork tube. I wonder if it would be possible to press it out and replace it by a longer bar. Alternately I wonder if you could make a 1" or 2" long bar and use it to extend the OEM bar by using an inner tube epoxied in place to connect the two parts.

A disadvantage to rotating the housing counterclockwise any meaningful amount is that it will make the START button hard to reach.
Thanks, yes something doesn't quite add up there. I have the Renthals pushed right up so the top of the fork clamp touches the under side of the top triple tree and there is still contact between the tubes and the intake cover. I checked the Renthal packaging and they are described as having a "7 degree down sweep and a 39 mm forward offset".

I believe the issue with the Renthals arises because the bars sit significantly lower in the fork clamps, compared with the way the OEM bars sit in their clamps. If you look at the OEM bars, the inboard end is nearly above the top of the fork clamp. The Renthal bars are lower.

This particlar version of the Renthals is the Gen 1, CL100, with which the tubes slide into the fork clamps and are clamped by two bolts (rather than the tube screwing into the fork clamp).

Thanks for the thoughts re extending the standard bars. That could work, though I am also looking to sweep the bars further forward, which the standard set-up doesn't allow, given the locating pin set-up which fixes the fore/aft sweep of the OEM bars.

And yes, absolutely right re rotating the housing counterclockwise, which leaves the starter button in a hard to reach place (not good for emergencies!).
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Thanks again for all the replies.

Just to add, I also tried rotating the housing clockwise which helped with the clearance issue some, but ended up pulling the wiring for the start/kill switch too tight, which I don't like. The throttle tubes still brushed the intake cover, even doing this.

Since bending the metal throttle tubes doesn't look like a sensible option here, reluctantly I am going to look at an aftemarket throttle set-up. The Motion Pro Rev2 looks like it would totally eliminate clearance issues, as it has the throttle cables exiting from the top of the housing. Anyone who watched the recent Revzilla video featuring the K5 will have seen that Ari Henning had this throttle set-up on his K5. It has the added advantage of coming with different cams to fine-tune the throttle response.
 

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I'll spit ball one more out there. Is it possible to rotate the curved throttle cables towards the front of the bike? Leave the housing in the original orientation and swivel the elbows forward so the curve is leading when the bars are moved towards full lock. Not sure how that affects the bracket holding the cables but an inch of cable slack maybe enough to find a bit of clearance.
 
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Discussion Starter #17
I'll spit ball one more out there. Is it possible to rotate the curved throttle cables towards the front of the bike? Leave the housing in the original orientation and swivel the elbows forward so the curve is leading when the bars are moved towards full lock. Not sure how that affects the bracket holding the cables but an inch of cable slack maybe enough to find a bit of clearance.
Thanks I will give that a try.
 

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Thanks, yes something doesn't quite add up there. I have the Renthals pushed right up so the top of the fork clamp touches the under side of the top triple tree and there is still contact between the tubes and the intake cover. I checked the Renthal packaging and they are described as having a "7 degree down sweep and a 39 mm forward offset".

I believe the issue with the Renthals arises because the bars sit significantly lower in the fork clamps, compared with the way the OEM bars sit in their clamps. If you look at the OEM bars, the inboard end is nearly above the top of the fork clamp. The Renthal bars are lower.

This particlar version of the Renthals is the Gen 1, CL100, with which the tubes slide into the fork clamps and are clamped by two bolts (rather than the tube screwing into the fork clamp).

Thanks for the thoughts re extending the standard bars. That could work, though I am also looking to sweep the bars further forward, which the standard set-up doesn't allow, given the locating pin set-up which fixes the fore/aft sweep of the OEM bars.

And yes, absolutely right re rotating the housing counterclockwise, which leaves the starter button in a hard to reach place (not good for emergencies!).
On my modified OEM set up- the 'locating pin' is doing nothing. I actually did try and get the angle the same as it would have been in the stock position using the locating pin. Now it just sticks up 'in thin air' LOL
 
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"am also looking to sweep the bars further forward, which the standard set-up doesn't allow, given the locating pin set-up which fixes the fore/aft sweep of the OEM bars"
I don't like it but you could remove the pin. As best I can tell, it's just there to assist in setup. The pinch clamp on the fork tube is what really determines their position. But you won't be able to move them very far forward before you start having clearance problems at the front.

"If you look at the OEM bars, the inboard end is nearly above the top of the fork clamp."
I hadn't noticed but you're right. The bar centerline is roughly at the top of the clamp. The Renthal clamp is slightly wider and the bar seems to align with the center of the clamp. That must be why they interfere even though the bar angle is shallower.

The Motion Pro Rev2 may be the solution to all this, though depending on position, there may be more clutter on top. Check for possible interference with the MC. Their slowest reel may be faster than what you have right now.

As an aside, the best clamps seem to be a hinged design by Attack Performance as you don't have to lower the fork to install them. They seem to have copied a design once made by Tachyon.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
A quick update: I just finished installing a Motion Pro Rev2 throttle. It has totally eliminated the throttle elbow fouling issue I was having with the OEM throttle.

Billv, you were absolutely correct when you said the Rev2 would increase clutter up top. The front brake fluid reservoir is now going to need some careful re-mounting, as the new cables run more or less exactly where the reservoir wants to sit.

One other issue is that the new Rev2 throttle cables could do with being a bit longer. I prefer to run the Renthal clip-ons with a 'wide' bar position, and with this set-up the cables are pulled tighter than I like when on full right lock. I believe Motion Pro offer custom cable solutions, which may be an option if I can't find another work-around for this issue.

Thanks all for all the input so far.
 
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