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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, before you go bashing, I'm not taking any credit on this one!

ON Todays oil change- Hiflo filter off the net,
and I went to Walmart in person to buy the oil- again.
I was about to actually try the Super Tech 10-40 4T Jaso M2, for just over a buck cheaper than the Mobil 1 4T oil they have.

Then it dawned on me- Someone on here- don't remember who, one of the regular Guru's though- said Shell Rotella 4T was also Jaso/M2, etc.

Walmart had many Rotella oils, T1 thru about T6? But when I looked on the jug, only the 4T had the Jaso/M2 rating. Instead of 10-40, it's 15-40.
Funnier still is that the little pictures on the jug, Diesel, tractor, Car, truck, NO motorcycle!

Here's the best part! The one gallon jug was only 12.47! That's like $3.12/qt! Half the price/Qt of even the SuperTech 4T!


Changed the oil and filter, started it up, no ear plugs, and it seemed the quietest my engine has ever been too!

Which ever guru mentioned this stuff in another oil thread- THANK YOU!
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I just noticed that that ad states that it is $12.47 a Qt, not a gallon? did I pay over $48 for 4 quarts of oil today?
i couldn't find the receipt, and bought other things too though.

I think it was 12.47/gallon?
 
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Discussion Starter #3
I'm also thinking, even though it is JASO/M2 rated, it doesn't state motorcycle/sportbike oil b/c it's not really for the higher revving engines?
That's why no sportbike picture?
I have seen the ones with sportbikes, and different ones with a cruiser/harley on it- lower revving engines?

Those of you that use the Rotella, what say you?
 

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Ok, I'll be the first... The Shell Rotella 15-40 (T4) is diesel oil, and is JASO (wet clutch safe). BUT, our modern bikes "require" a thinner synthetic (not necessarily synthetic, but preferred) oil. The preferred oil for our newer bikes is the T6 (I could be mistaken on that, might be T5?) synthetic 10-40 oil. I have run the T4 in my "83 750 and 1100 for years without an issue. BUT, as engineering has progressed, the bearing, and journal tolerances have gotten MUCH thinner, thinner oil is required to be pumped into those tighter tolerances. Same concept with cars. Only difference is the wet clutch, which Rotella is compliant of.

Edit: Diesel oil is also a bit more durable than most oils, as in, is rated to be changed less frequently than conventional oils. Though I changed it in my bikes as needed according to regular mileage intervals...
 

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I'm also thinking, even though it is JASO/M2 rated, it doesn't state motorcycle/sportbike oil b/c it's not really for the higher revving engines?
That's why no sportbike picture?
I have seen the ones with sportbikes, and different ones with a cruiser/harley on it- lower revving engines?

Those of you that use the Rotella, what say you?
You're right on the revving Todd. I did an oil analysis on the T6 a while back & spoke to a lab tech. He told me everything was fine except the viscosity breakdown. This oil is not built for sport bike engines. I have the results somewhere.

You can also send your oil to Blackstone Labs. Request a kit & it comes with sample bottles. I believe it was less than $20.
 

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Let us know how it works out for the GSX-R engines. So far, mine has only had the Suzuki Ecstar in it: r5000 conventional until 2500 miles, then r9000 full-synthetic to present (7500 miles). I used the last of my r9000 at the 7500 mile oil change and have 4 quarts of Mobil 1 4T on the shop shelf, so probably going to use that at the 10k change instead of buying more r9000. Considering a permanent change to the Mobil, mostly because I can buy it local without having to have it shipped in but also because I wanted to stick with the Suzuki brand thru the end of the warranty on the bike. My warranty ended in mid-Feb and around here the Ecstar is nowhere to be found, so I think the Mobil will be good enough lol.

The cost of a quart of oil is not a substantial factor, at least not until we get into a war with Iran aka Persia of old.
 

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Let us know how it works out for the GSX-R engines. So far, mine has only had the Suzuki Ecstar in it: r5000 conventional until 2500 miles, then r9000 full-synthetic to present (7500 miles). I used the last of my r9000 at the 7500 mile oil change and have 4 quarts of Mobil 1 4T on the shop shelf, so probably going to use that at the 10k change instead of buying more r9000. Considering a permanent change to the Mobil, mostly because I can buy it local without having to have it shipped in but also because I wanted to stick with the Suzuki brand thru the end of the warranty on the bike. My warranty ended in mid-Feb and around here the Ecstar is nowhere to be found, so I think the Mobil will be good enough lol.

The cost of a quart of oil is not a substantial factor, at least not until we get into a war with Iran aka Persia of old.
From what I've been told, you're not supposed to use synthetic on a motor before 10k miles. It's too slippery for a motor that's not properly broken in. It will actually affect the break-in process.

A manufacturer cannot deny you warranty because you didn't use their oil. That is criminal. Any reputable oil should be fair game.

Just keep all receipts of oil & filter purchases.
 

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From what I've been told, you're not supposed to use synthetic on a motor before 10k miles. It's too slippery for a motor that's not properly broken in. It will actually affect the break-in process.

A manufacturer cannot deny you warranty because you didn't use their oil. That is criminal. Any reputable oil should be fair game.

Just keep all receipts of oil & filter purchases.
My first oil-change was at 500 miles then again at the 600 mile service (to flush the original oil & metal particles). After that, the oil was changed at 1200 and 2000 miles. These were all r5000.

Throughout the 500 & 1000 mile break-in periods spec’d in the manual, an anal regimen of heat/cool cycles and RPM limiting were observed. The RPM limiting was per the manual and the heat/cool cycles were recommended by the selling dealership. I am not a fan of the hammer it hard from day 1 break-in school.

At 2500 miles the oil was switched to r9000 and it has had full-synthetic for three changes so far (2500, 5000 & 7500). Before switching to synthetic I read a lot of opinions from a lot of sources on when the switch to full-synthetic should be done and the average consensus I saw was 2500. I never once heard anyone say 10000 and it would be very difficult for anyone to convince me that my engine had an inadequate break-in.

I also never thought Suzuki would deny warranty service if I used other oil, I just wanted it to be as difficult as possible for some yahoo dealer to invent some claim in the event they were inclined to do so. And yes, all receipts and meticulous maintenance & upgrade records have been kept, both for the warranty thing as well as for a future buyer if I ever decide to sell the bike.
 
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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for the replies!

This morning, going to the Diner to watch the MotoGP, the motor sounded great, and the throttle response seemd a tad better! This was my first ride on the new oil too. And it was the cheapest $$ oil/filter change I have done in aobut 10 years, so it wasn't a money spent/but dyno thing.

I realized that most of the time, my motor stays are 6K or below- plenty of power there, and cruises highway speeds too at that rpm. ON the spirited sections of my ride, yes, it does live above 6K rpm though.
I'll keep and eye/ear on it, and will probably change it around 2K miles.

I've mostly used Mobil 1, 4T.

Oh yeah, the Rotella T5 and T6- I coundn't find the JASO/M2 rating on those! Only on their T4? I thought I did look fat the jug listings well too.
 

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I used to swear by the T4 15W-40 but, I changed the oil often. Ran it in both my 600 and 1000. But, when I got rid of the 1000 I switched my track bike over to the Mobil1 4T and I only change once a track season.

The T6 full synthetic comes in two variations; T6, and T6 multi-vehicle. T6 is JASO MA/MA2 rated. Multi-vehicle is just too light.

What makes the whole oil conversation frustrating is that they specify SF/SG or SH/SJ. SJ is the only current specification. SF/SG were obsolete back in the 90s. Pack on top of that Rotella T is a diesel engine oil, all the specifications are going to be C classifications. CJ-4 and CK-4 are both current specifications and T4 and T6 are both rated as such. So, how do we know CJ-4 with JASO MA oil (Rotella T4 and T6) are safe for our engines? First the oil is really designed to resist sulfur found in diesel. We don't have to worry about that and the additives are not going to cause harm if you don't use a fuel with sulfur. Second is what a diesel engine demands of the oil, is strikingly similar to what our high RPM inline 4 cylinders require. High resistance to heat and shear are the two big ones. Mainly because it has to act like a gear oil in the trans as well. The other big benefit is that Rotella has anti-emulsification properties. And it's also one of the best cleaning oils out there.
 

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I've used the 4T for the last 12,000 miles in my 750 without any issues. I change oil and filter religiously every 2k. No track use, just commuting and back road blasts.

Sent from my SM-S205DL using Tapatalk
 

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So how does this affect an oil cooled bike? Cooling is regulated by oil viscosity. When the bike is cool and the oil is thicker it stays in the pan when hot and thinner it is sent through the rad. Am I going to run hotter?
 

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Cooling is regulated by the thermal coefficient. Flow is a little less when cold and thick, but then so is the engine. The oil really doesn't separate based on temperature. There's enough agitation that it says pretty much consistent.
 

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Yeah, if I understand correctly when my oil is thicker it takes more pressure to pump and there is a releif valve in the sump that opens short cycling the oil in the pan, once it gets hot and thinner it is esier to pump and doesn't pop off so it goes to the oil cooler until it all cools and thickens up again. I am guessing a thicker more viscous oil is going to make my bike run hotter? I'd like to change oil but am worried how it will affect engine temp.
 

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Overthinking it. Pressure in the galleries is constant because of the pressure regulator. Thicker oil doesn't flow as easily, so when it's cold, more oil will cycle back to the sump. But, you still have flow through the cooler. Flow is a function of pressure, viscosity, and the diameter. Two of those are constants.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
2 days ago a went on one of my notorius 'spirited rides'

Unless really getting after it on some twisties, I always ran it under 6K rpm- I watched it some this time.
At that speed in 6th- My current set up still will do around 80mph.
I don't think I ever took it above 10K. don't really need to to get great performance
and sphincter puckering speeds/acceleration.

Motor stays quiet, runs great.

I too usually use the Mobil 1 T4. - about $10.50/Qt at Walmart.
Even with a sooner change interval, and changing the filter every other oil change (IIRC- manual recommends that?), it would still be way cheaper to run the shell stuff.

I'll look at a T6 bottle closer for the JASO/M2 rating next time I'm in Wally World.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Ok, a few days ago, I went with the rotella T6 synthetic this time.
I have a LOT of time at work to web surf, so I looked up a lot of threads on Rotella for motorcycles, etc.
It was mostly on cruiser forums though.
I went about 1500 with the T4, no on the T6.
they did say on those threads many of them had oil analysis performed, and it help up well, on a cruiser and/or car/truck engine.

I'm thinking in 2K more miles with this, I'm going back to a synthetic 4T for mootrocycles, like Supertech, or my old faithful, Mobil 1.

Still no ill issues with this oil though. Start up is quiet, shifts well, etc.
 

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I just bought a gallon of T6 rotella for my bike. Will be installing this weekend. I have used the T4 in my old GS for over 10 years with good result, no issues. Haven't tried it in my newer water cooled bike yet. I'm confident it will be fine.
 
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Discussion Starter #20
At Walmart, the 'deal' on T6, is not as economical as the T4. For about $4 -$5 more, I can get the Supertech T4 for motorcycles synthetic, and for about $8-10 more, I can get their Mobil 1. I"ll see how the T6 rotella holds up/runs. Might just stay with that too.
 
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