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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys
Is it a good option,if the only I have to sleeve the engine,gsxr 1000k6
Replate here... impossible.
I have talked to a guy who sleeves but he says that the wear would be fast...any opinions??
Thanks guys

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the reply billv
here I mean Spain.
I have just emailed the guys you mentioned.
I am looking for engines but the asking prices are way to high for a used engine where I ask what Comp values are given and all I get "it's a running engine"
I did a comp test on mine and it's dead low...9,5bar
So,if price is ok and they do the service I would be also looking at rings and shells....


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Discussion Starter #5
Have called and they tell they can't do this engine as it is not only cyl block,not possible as the upper part of the casing is part of the block

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How do you know your compression loss is a problem with the bore? A quick hone and new rings might be all that's needed.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I had the engine a part, and on cyl1 did see that tiny score...
Valves are ok, I was thinking as you said..flexhone to deglaze and rings...

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I've never done one of these engines but I believe the cylinders are nikasil plated and honing is not recommended from what I've read. I did some research when I was doing my KTM and just a good scrub with scotchbrite and detergent is what I came across most. There is a ton of information with a google search.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
That's correct, at flexhone for nikasil deglaze they recommended aluminium oxide 250# for just a quick clean to get the cross pattern back.
Btw holeshot racing can Do the replate,they charge 600 pounds for it plus shipping go and back

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Discussion Starter #10
Another question,is it safe to lap the valves? These are ti valves

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The service manual recommends against it, stating (3-39) that the valves have an oxidized surface finish to resist wear and lapping will remove it.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks,just as u thought
Replacing with steel valves if there is a need...would I loose top rpm limit? Heard that steely don't like high rpm

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks Chuckster, anyone mounted them keeping factory rev limit?
Not planning on doing new rings,shells and then blasting it due float

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First of why? You're asking questions around a solution, but not explaining a problem. Have you gauged the valve/seat interface?

I get this thread has to do with a compression issue. What did you do to diagnose it? Or are you just going to throw parts at it?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I had the engine out before and the sealing of the valves I one of the cylinders is not the best, I took the cams out and poured some gasoline on all of them,3 kept the gasoline and one lost it in a period of half day.
Second
Rings will have to put in as comp on all are around 9 9,5

The questions are there as I will be pulling out the engine soon again for all this changes

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You could check the seat with the procedure shown on 3-36. Note that the lapping tool is just a convenient way to turn the valve, not to lap it. If it isn't seating correctly, a seat touch-up per 3-37 to 3-40 may be in order. But I really consider that as a task for a specialist.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I might have chance to get a k7 engine, are the engine mounts location the same or do they change,in short,would it fit? For the rest of cables ecu etc...no problems

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I think k5-k8 were the same family, so it should be a direct swap. I don't think the redesign came until k9. Go on the parts fiche and compare the part numbers on some of the components. If there's a big overlap, that should be enough. Frame and wiring harness specifically would be telling.
 
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