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Discussion Starter #41
Is the crank bearing diam and con rod diam the same ? 35mm? Thanks

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The Suzuki service manual is far better than the Haynes manual and downloadable for free. I've been updating it, initially to get rid of the Japlish, but it's now way beyond that with around 3500 changes. The oil jet screw torque is 9.8 N-m and you're supposed to also use thread lock.

Regarding bending the ring land back in place: +1000 on "I wouldn't even think about it as an acceptable solution."

Service manual:
Conrod big end I.D. 38.000 – 38.016 mm
Crank pin O.D. 34.976 – 35.000
Crankshaft journal O.D. 34.982 – 35.000 mm

"Are the crank/conrod shells just aluminium?" If you mean the bearings, no way. Test with a magnet.
 

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Discussion Starter #43
Thanks for the update, will do the magnet check, I was thinking of ahl shells but I think they are just Alu...have not found someone who has tested it.
Haynes have couple of typos...
If down to numbers I might end up with a second hand engine (with fingers crossed) and sell/keep the stuff that's ok for spares.
Ahl state they are aluminium,if they are I guess it's a pretty soft material (no alloys) and go bye bye rather fast

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Discussion Starter #44
Have got some Picts of the possible engine I might buy
It seems to have some water damage.


Injectors i can manage
He has cleaned the valves with wd40 and a Dremel...don't like that
Barrels might have some rust........
Anything you guys can determine from the Picts? Cheers


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Discussion Starter #46
Fak....compatible the k7 with the k6 head?

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Your recent pics are too small for me to see anything.

I have a pic of a K6 head on a K7 crankcase. So the reverse ought to be possible. But note my earlier comment about upper engine mounts.
 

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Discussion Starter #49
What colour are the bearing with ref 5d5 e? Colour is gone
All others are red ones
Cheers

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Discussion Starter #50
Are the crank and con bearings the same size from a 1000k6 and a 1000k7?
Thanks

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Go to a seller like Ron Ayers and get the pn's for your bearings. Then enter those numbers into the Where Used to find out.

Your left throttle bore looks terrible. Hard to tell but the #3 bore doesn't look so hot.
 

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Discussion Starter #54
Yes, that is from the engine intended to buy..that I can recondition....want to see the engine but till quarantine is over can't do Shi..t....


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Discussion Starter #55
Have been looking for it and of course they are many bearings to choose from, I'm a bit confused as the letter code is ok, it's in the book but...what are the numbers replacing the letters?
I have also looked on the casing and found no letters on it.
How do I choose the right colours of the bearings? Thanks

Another question regarding the high volume gear for these engines, factory is 35T and I have read that ape and other brands do an upgrade of it and the difference is one teeth more on the gear, I have printed out a prototype at first look it could work but will need a run in time and it would sound loud,if this is correct, just one teeth more I make it in the cnc machine out of aluminium (should withstand...)

Thanks guys


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There should be a group of five letters and another of four numbers stamped on the crankshaft. The letters are for the crankshaft journals and the numbers are for the crank pins.

I'm aware that high volume oil pump gears are sold where the number of teeth are different. This has never made any sense to me as I thought that both the drive and driven gears had to be changed and that there are issues with center-to-center distances. Something similar is done with the transmission 1st gear to change the number of teeth. That makes even less sense. I don't claim to know much about gear design.

I don't know what I'm looking at but the top oil pump driven gear in your pic looks horrible. Has it just come out of a machining process? Making one out of aluminum sounds like a bad idea.
 

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Discussion Starter #57
Hi
The other numbers on crank are L2222R
Just the numbers...hm maybe this on the picture?
Yes, the part is a plastic printed to check if the dimensions are correct, not for use, won't last a turn, alu bad idea...too soft I gues, what is the choice? Steel? Iron?
Can't find any others

So the ones on the cons are number and letter, giving the con bearing
And the two lines on the crank gives the upper and lower bearing value?
How do I know what thrust bearing I need to use?

Thanks again ;)


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