Are you sure that you have the IAP (Intake air pressure) sensor hooked back up? That will cause it to run rich and you are working in that area....i have a problem.with my gsxr 600 k5...i repaird the stva ...put it back on the bike but it seems like it doesent pull properly it runs rich...i have read the service manual but i cannot understand how to measure the 1.6ohm from the stp sensor. Do i have to take the stva off the bike because i canot acces the pin from the senzor ...i read the tp sensor adjustment is prety easy by looking at the dealer mode dash and making it stay at the middle line (its t the top at the moment) but do i have to do it with the bike runing because it is invonvenient because of the positioning of the sensor......but the trouble is with thaat dam stp sensor...do you have any pics that can show me how to measure the resistence please...it been 3 weaks alredy of studying the service manuals but the black and white pics are not to helpfull....thank you and sorry for my bad english
Here is my email for any info about stp and ts adjunsting nounting and testing coloured pics would be helpfull
Thank you very much
This post is just what is needed after I had a loss of power at the track last weekend and got the C28 error. Very well written. many thanks. Sorry to trouble you over this again but my computer wont open the zip files either. not sure why. I feel I have got the ecu issue and need to check the STVA according to your instructions. [email protected]If your bike is showing an error code, it is in limp mode. The fact it runs doesn't mean it's not.
Usually on the 06-07 bikes, the C28 code is caused by an ECU fault. There are cases where it is the STVA itself, by they're pretty rare. How did you check the STVA operation? Sometimes, it's possible for the sensor to be faulty and the error logic on the bike detect it as a problem with the actuator instead. Sensor issues are displayed as C29. When the sensors fail a certain way, the system just believes the secondaries are jammed up and throws C28 instead. Start by testing the secondary throttle position sensor resistance. You should be able to find two wires that read about 0.6 kOhms fully closed up to about 5kOhms fully open. You should also find two wires with a static value no matter what position. If that's good, your issue is most likely the ECU.
Do you have a friend with a 2006 or 2007 600 or 750? You can swap the ECUs briefly for a quick function test. No need to start the bike, just see if the error condition changes.
You, kind sir, are a gem! Got them this time. Same test as the Haynes manual I have. I have an open circuit on C/D. Not repairable I presume? I dismantled the STVA and everything is clean an visibly in good condition. Could it be the solder to the pcb?Some fresh links.....
STPS installation and testing for the k6-k7 GSXR: K6-K7 STPS
STVA testing for the k6-k7 GSXR: K6-K7_STVA_testing
The testing is not absolute. There can be loose connections between the harness and modules. Very difficult to troubleshoot and correct these conditions.
Interesting option especially if the throttle body is still in place. Did you leave the spindle position on fast idle or not? What difference if any did you detect in the performance. Mine is track dedicated only so rarely goes below 6k while out on the track so 2k idle is palatable.you can also take a Phillips screwdriver, and just remove the butterfly plates and leave everything else connected. Just get a little bag for the screws and plates so you don't lose them. It's probably easier to do it that way at least that's what I've done and it took about 15 mins.
just took a closer look and you are absolutely correct. broken just at the solder pool where it bends straight in. the other one is wound around the post. so in theory running the solder pool down into the slot in the pcb should fix it but ends up with perpetuating the same design issue. a better solution would be to splice a wire and run it around the other post prior to joining back to the solder pool. that looks a bit difficult.As long as the FI warning is on, you won't have optimal performance.
Open circuits on the k6 and newer are different from the k5 and older models. The manufacturer of the stepper motor changed the design, but introduced another flaw. The winding leads come straight up and make a 90 degree bend to the solder pool on the PCB. On the previous design, they had a loop around the support posts and allowed them to flex. This new design has no flex and the wires fatigue right at that 90 degree bend and break. It's not a common failure, but of the 06 and newer units with an open circuit, this has been the case for all but one. The real nut buster is that the one that usually breaks is on the start of the winding and you can't pull out any slack. They're fixable, but we're talking a high skill level to even attempt it. The wire is tiny, coated, and you only have about 3-4mm to work with.