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...i have a problem.with my gsxr 600 k5...i repaird the stva ...put it back on the bike but it seems like it doesent pull properly it runs rich...i have read the service manual but i cannot understand how to measure the 1.6ohm from the stp sensor. Do i have to take the stva off the bike because i canot acces the pin from the senzor ...i read the tp sensor adjustment is prety easy by looking at the dealer mode dash and making it stay at the middle line (its t the top at the moment) but do i have to do it with the bike runing because it is invonvenient because of the positioning of the sensor......but the trouble is with thaat dam stp sensor...do you have any pics that can show me how to measure the resistence please...it been 3 weaks alredy of studying the service manuals but the black and white pics are not to helpfull....thank you and sorry for my bad english

Here is my email for any info about stp and ts adjunsting nounting and testing coloured pics would be helpfull

[email protected]

Thank you very much
 

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...i have a problem.with my gsxr 600 k5...i repaird the stva ...put it back on the bike but it seems like it doesent pull properly it runs rich...i have read the service manual but i cannot understand how to measure the 1.6ohm from the stp sensor. Do i have to take the stva off the bike because i canot acces the pin from the senzor ...i read the tp sensor adjustment is prety easy by looking at the dealer mode dash and making it stay at the middle line (its t the top at the moment) but do i have to do it with the bike runing because it is invonvenient because of the positioning of the sensor......but the trouble is with thaat dam stp sensor...do you have any pics that can show me how to measure the resistence please...it been 3 weaks alredy of studying the service manuals but the black and white pics are not to helpfull....thank you and sorry for my bad english

Here is my email for any info about stp and ts adjunsting nounting and testing coloured pics would be helpfull

[email protected]

Thank you very much
Are you sure that you have the IAP (Intake air pressure) sensor hooked back up? That will cause it to run rich and you are working in that area.

Post an intro, with pics of your bike, in the "new riders and members" section when you get a chance.
 

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2005 GSX-R600 Anniversary Edition
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Discussion Starter · #145 ·
It's pretty difficult to do without a test harness, or removing the throttle body. Before I made my own test harness, I would just clip small gator clips on the leads, then touch my probes to the clips.
 

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yes everythimg is conected...no error on dssh...
Sorry, I meant the hose connecting the IAP to the throttle body. I don't think that would throw a code but the bike would think it was WOT and fuel accordingly.
 

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Hey Chuckster, I know this is an old sticky however, when I go to replace my STVA back on the throttle body with the STVA turned all the way counter clockwise (2006 K7) the secondarys would be full closed according to the shaft orientation. Your write up on page one seems to say they should be open. Am I reading it wrong or should I just go with the shaft orientation??
 

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Discussion Starter · #148 ·
Probably a misunderstanding of perspective. When the STVA is remove and you're looking into the hole, counter clockwise is fully open. Then turn the secondaries open so the fast idle cam on the opposite end should be in contact with the follower at the widest point.

So, if that doesn't line things up, my next question is did you take it apart? If so, take a picture and I'll tell you if you assembled it wrong.
 

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Hello, Chuckster. I picked up a k5 GSXR600, and a little time ago, the FI code showed up. I put it in dealer mode and showed code -C28. Can you help me out? The guy that usually repairs stuff like this, tells me to change it, but I want to see for myself that it is damaged beyond repair so I can be sure to order a new one.
I read that you send someone some documents. Will those help me out to disect the problem? I am a little fed up that my bike loses power in the low-mid range and does not go off flying when I go full throttle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #152 ·
First, test the STVA. If it passes the tests, check the STPS.

There are two circuits for the STVA itself (4 pins). If you look at the picture below, the two pins indicated are the "left" circuit, and the other two are the "right" circuit. You should read about 7 ohms for each one. This test is typically enough to reveal an STVA issue.



Before you remove the STVA, make sure the secondary throttle valves are fully closed. Then don't move it or the STVA positioning prior to reinstall. This is the only position that the STVA can be properly reinstalled.
 

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Files for K6/7 test

If your bike is showing an error code, it is in limp mode. The fact it runs doesn't mean it's not.

Usually on the 06-07 bikes, the C28 code is caused by an ECU fault. There are cases where it is the STVA itself, by they're pretty rare. How did you check the STVA operation? Sometimes, it's possible for the sensor to be faulty and the error logic on the bike detect it as a problem with the actuator instead. Sensor issues are displayed as C29. When the sensors fail a certain way, the system just believes the secondaries are jammed up and throws C28 instead. Start by testing the secondary throttle position sensor resistance. You should be able to find two wires that read about 0.6 kOhms fully closed up to about 5kOhms fully open. You should also find two wires with a static value no matter what position. If that's good, your issue is most likely the ECU.

Do you have a friend with a 2006 or 2007 600 or 750? You can swap the ECUs briefly for a quick function test. No need to start the bike, just see if the error condition changes.
This post is just what is needed after I had a loss of power at the track last weekend and got the C28 error. Very well written. many thanks. Sorry to trouble you over this again but my computer wont open the zip files either. not sure why. I feel I have got the ecu issue and need to check the STVA according to your instructions. [email protected]

thanks
Natasha
 

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Bypass?

Some fresh links.....

STPS installation and testing for the k6-k7 GSXR: K6-K7 STPS
STVA testing for the k6-k7 GSXR: K6-K7_STVA_testing

The testing is not absolute. There can be loose connections between the harness and modules. Very difficult to troubleshoot and correct these conditions.
You, kind sir, are a gem! Got them this time. Same test as the Haynes manual I have. I have an open circuit on C/D. Not repairable I presume? I dismantled the STVA and everything is clean an visibly in good condition. Could it be the solder to the pcb?

The reason for my in depth questioning is that my bike sits in a garage at Sepang gp circuit and I live in Western Australia and travel to and fro. I have limited time frames and resources for repairs even though I am quite capable of using the right knowledge which you have generously provided in this case. I have to set myself up with parts and plan prior to travelling accordingly.

So in a worst case scenario at the track without parts, if I jam the secondary butterflies open (cable tie, I drilled the cam plate before I flew out) and disconnect the STVA what’s the effect? Just high idle, a bit of a loss of low end and a C28 error? The bike was running pretty well for a day near pb, even though the light was on but after it lost top end on the second day I opened the air box to discover the secondary butterflies part closed down which made sense. Something must have moved somehow which may also suggest broken wire. This all occurred following a low speed 65kmh low side T1 Sepang from the previous trip in March which cracked the tail fairing near to the ecu.

Btw yes I am female but I am an engineer who knows a fair bit about mechanicals and electrics and rides reasonably fast. 2:22-2:24 on a near standard K7 750. I try to to do all my own maintenance and repair as I only have myself to blame if it goes pear shaped.

Thanks so much again for this thread and your very kind assistance in a frustrating quest for a solution.:smile
 

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you can also take a Phillips screwdriver, and just remove the butterfly plates and leave everything else connected. Just get a little bag for the screws and plates so you don't lose them. It's probably easier to do it that way at least that's what I've done and it took about 15 mins.
 

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you can also take a Phillips screwdriver, and just remove the butterfly plates and leave everything else connected. Just get a little bag for the screws and plates so you don't lose them. It's probably easier to do it that way at least that's what I've done and it took about 15 mins.
Interesting option especially if the throttle body is still in place. Did you leave the spindle position on fast idle or not? What difference if any did you detect in the performance. Mine is track dedicated only so rarely goes below 6k while out on the track so 2k idle is palatable.

Thanks for your comment
 

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Discussion Starter · #158 ·
As long as the FI warning is on, you won't have optimal performance.

Open circuits on the k6 and newer are different from the k5 and older models. The manufacturer of the stepper motor changed the design, but introduced another flaw. The winding leads come straight up and make a 90 degree bend to the solder pool on the PCB. On the previous design, they had a loop around the support posts and allowed them to flex. This new design has no flex and the wires fatigue right at that 90 degree bend and break. It's not a common failure, but of the 06 and newer units with an open circuit, this has been the case for all but one. The real nut buster is that the one that usually breaks is on the start of the winding and you can't pull out any slack. They're fixable, but we're talking a high skill level to even attempt it. The wire is tiny, coated, and you only have about 3-4mm to work with.
 

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broken at the solder pool

As long as the FI warning is on, you won't have optimal performance.

Open circuits on the k6 and newer are different from the k5 and older models. The manufacturer of the stepper motor changed the design, but introduced another flaw. The winding leads come straight up and make a 90 degree bend to the solder pool on the PCB. On the previous design, they had a loop around the support posts and allowed them to flex. This new design has no flex and the wires fatigue right at that 90 degree bend and break. It's not a common failure, but of the 06 and newer units with an open circuit, this has been the case for all but one. The real nut buster is that the one that usually breaks is on the start of the winding and you can't pull out any slack. They're fixable, but we're talking a high skill level to even attempt it. The wire is tiny, coated, and you only have about 3-4mm to work with.
just took a closer look and you are absolutely correct. broken just at the solder pool where it bends straight in. the other one is wound around the post. so in theory running the solder pool down into the slot in the pcb should fix it but ends up with perpetuating the same design issue. a better solution would be to splice a wire and run it around the other post prior to joining back to the solder pool. that looks a bit difficult.
 
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