First of all use the 15000 resistor. Pros more power u can feel when you open up the throttle, due to your timing no longer being retarded so you get more accelaration. The cons is if you dont have one with a switch its tough on cold starts. also your revlimiter is gone. But I strongly recommend getting one.
you dont lose your rev limiter!! :laughingr Not trying to be mean, but you don't lose that. I have the "Non-switchable" one on mine and I still have my rev limiter and it starts easy on 50 degree mornings here. I just push the start button once and she runs fine, no restarting. But you do "not" lose the rev limiter.
I have the switchable one and cold starts it runs kinda bad at first until it gets warm, and the reason being is because you idle is dropped like 300 rpm's or so with it on I heard that you do lose the rev limiter with it on, I dont know personally yet, cause I shift before i hit it.
And another thing, people say it drops your idle. Mine doesn't change from before I had it on unless I pull the clutch in, then it drops, but only while the clutch is engaged. Which is why I think I don't have a problem with cold starts. Anyways, I would get it, you won't be dissapointed. Later :thumbup:
If you know your bike you can def. feel the difference with it switched on or off, greater throttle response. I've also noticed that it makes roll ons alot easier, i guess the bottom line is you wan't everybit of power that the bike u paid for is capable of achieving, thus said an $8.00 mod to achieve pistons hitting top dead center "yeah, you'll feel the difference".
if u want to pay $100 for one :hmmm: that has safties and doesnt mess up ur neutral map... here you go. www.motorcycleradar.com Go to the very bottom of the page. I like this unit cause i can set the map for what ever gears i want. My only complaint is that he is out of stock alot and takes a while to get back in stock. but hey, maybe -300rpm is ok with some people.