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This bike is going to drive me insane...2001 GSX-R1000

6K views 34 replies 13 participants last post by  QRO 
#1 · (Edited)
First off, if this is the wrong section I apologize, I am new to the site.

I got my GSX-R1000 from someone on Facebook marketplace, it has issues but I was aware of them. The owner was an 18-19 year old who seemed to know nothing about motorcycles or even how an engine works so he didn't maintain it very well. Here is the issue I'm having.

When I first got it, it wouldn't rev over 6000ish RPM while in gear no matter how little or hard you gave it throttle. My first idea was to check the tank, fuel pump assembly etc. I cleaned everything. I got rid of the big fuel filter, bought a new 255lph pump and 43-45 PSI regulator etc etc etc. everything to spec. Hooked it up, cleaned all 4 injectors, cleaned the tank, check for a collapsed fuel line, bypassed the clutch, bypassed the kickstand....I've done almost everything there is to do that I find on these forums and I keep having the same issue.

When I fire up the bike after its been sitting for 12+ hours in my garage, it acts like its a brand new bike. The throttle is responsive, there's no hesitation to rev, it tacs out to redline like a healthy bike should. It doesn't black smoke, white smoke, backfire, pop, nothing. It seems perfectly fine...then it warms up.

If I take it for a short ride around my neighborhood, the more and more I ride, the worse the bike gets and eventually it will die. Since I've messed with every component of the fuel system I'm confident it has enough fuel flow and pressure. Come to find out, cylinder 1 and 4 don't seem to fire when the bike is warmed up, I unplugged 1 and 4 but the bike didn't seem to make much of a difference at warm idle.

One of my biggest finds on the bike is corrosion on the ECM plug/prongs. I cleaned the prongs and the plug as best as I can and the bike ran better, but still has the same issue, only now the bike won't die after its warm. I've checked wiring from the ECM to all the way through the harness, no bad cuts or tears in any wires, the leads on the coils look fine, I've even replaced the coils with my buddies bike and it made no difference. I have replaced the stator, rectifier, battery, fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, battery, fuel filter, cleaned the tank, put fresh 93 octane in it, adjust the throttle position sensor, and even a new fuse for the fuel pump. I deleted the STVA as well...at this point I am lost and confused. The bike doesn't throw any codes either. To me it sounds like a coil wire issue but I don't know where to look other than follow the wires to the CDI/ECM.

It wants to run like a brand new bike when I start it until it gets to 170 degrees F and above, then it wants to act weird and struggle to run right or even accelerate.

If there are any life long K1 owners out there that have any advice or where to look next I would greatly appreciate it.
 
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#2 ·
I got a few suggestions but the real grease gurus will be along shortly with proper advise.

I think tight valve clearances can cause loss of power or performance in a hot engine like this. If it was poorly maintained you may want to check them


Another consideration is a blocked vent tube from the fuel tank - that would cause the tank to pull a vacuum after running for a while and decrease fuel flow but it is worse in gravity fed bikes and after longer periods of time than you are discussing.

I would switch the coils around and see if the problem moves to 2&3. If so a new coil may be in order. If not you need to find the wiring issue.
 
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#3 ·
I tried swapping coils 1 and 4 with coils 2 and 3 but it acted the same. I haven't thought about checking the vent on the tank, I'll check that next. As far as the tight valves go, I do hear a very faint tick when I get close to the front of the engine...thank you for your info, I'm curious to hear what others have to say about this. I've been diagnosing and fixing this bike for 3 weeks. I haven't gotten to ride it or even register it yet.
 
#4 ·
When I fire up the bike after its been sitting for 12+ hours in my garage, it acts like its a brand new bike. The throttle is responsive, there's no hesitation to rev, it tacs out to redline like a healthy bike should. It doesn't black smoke, white smoke, backfire, pop, nothing. It seems perfectly fine...then it warms up.

If I take it for a short ride around my neighborhood, the more and more I ride, the worse the bike gets and eventually it will die. Since I've messed with every component of the fuel system I'm confident it has enough fuel flow and pressure. Come to find out, cylinder 1 and 4 don't seem to fire when the bike is warmed up, I unplugged 1 and 4 but the bike didn't seem to make much of a difference at warm idle.
Welcome.

This part of your post tells me to look at the fuel tank venting as Tin mentioned. I'd be curious to know if you popped open the fuel cap after it died whether the bike would run well again for a bit.
 
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#5 ·
I'm sure you have, just haven't mentioned it- that the air cleaner is clean also?
Good luck
 
#6 ·
I’m starting with the more difficult portion of the diag. I’ve got the valve cover off now and I’m going to check the valves. The air filter is a bit dirty but I’ve always ran the bike without it and there isn’t a significant change in performance. Once I check that valves, if they’re good, I’ll ride it, pop the gas cap, and see what happens. I’ll keep this thread updated on my findings. I haven’t been able to find a solution anywhere online so I’d like to find the answer and post it for future riders with this same issue. Thank you all for the info this far, I’ll have an update tonight.
 
#7 ·
Running without an air filter isn’t a good idea. Get yourself a new one and put it in.
 
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#8 ·
Okay so here's the update: Pulled the valve cover off, went and bought a feeler gauge (it only goes down to 0.008 in). From what I found online, the GSX-R1000 valve clearance cold should be 0.004-0.008 on the intake and 0.008-0.012 on the exhaust.

Sadly, in Position A the exhaust valves on cylinder 3 and 4 were a little tight at 0.012, I could hardly get the gauge in there and when I did, it left a minor scratch on the gauge pulling it back out. The intake valves on cylinder 2 and 4 were too tight to fit the 0.008 at all (remember I don't have 0.004 to check smaller). So they're tight.

In Position B, exhaust valves on cylinder 1 and 2 were tight and intake on cylinder 1 and 3 were tight as well. So it looks like that could be the main cause of the bike running bad when warmed up.

My question now is: Should I run a compression test for shits and giggles while the bike is apart or should I proceed with removing the cams and order the shims that I need? I believe this bike has shims and not an adjustable valve, from what I've read online. The bike has 65,000 miles on it but the entire bike is clean from head to toe other than this valve issue and the leaking water pump. Oil does not leak and the bike does not smoke black, white, or blue. To me it sounds like its been treated like anyone would treat a 1000, except they didn't take the time to properly maintain it and I am paying for it now.

Let me know what you think I should do now.
 
#9 ·
First off, I’d spend the money on a set of feeler gauges that has the smaller size. If the clearances are less than the minimum on any cylinder, I’d be inclined to do a leak down test. You need to rule out badly seating /pitted valves or seats.

Whilst you could go to the trouble of reshimming, if the valves are leaking, you’ll be reseating the valves and possibly re shimming them again afterwards.
 
#10 ·
Typically tight valves will make it hard to start when cold. Not so much give you the symptoms you currently have.
You mentioned that when warmed up, you have an issue with 2 cylinders not changing when you pull the coils. Are those coils actually getting spark at that time? If they aren't, I might be checking my crank sensor. We have seen them develop heat related issues, and cause a bunch of strange symptoms.
Also have seen them gather a bunch of metal shavings, and give odd readings, and still not throw any codes.
Not to say you shouldn't get the valve clearances adjusted properly, just saying I don't think it is going to solve this issue.
Also, you should do a proper fuel flow, and pressure test. Just to rule it out with facts, not assumptions.
 
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#13 ·
Yes, we have seen flakey crank sensors that do NOT throw codes. I would start by visually inspecting it first. Could just have a bunch of sludge and metal dust stuck to it.
 
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#14 ·
Update on the bike:

I mentioned that I cleaned the injectors when I replaced the rest of the fuel system...well I stuck my phone camera to the throttle bodies and recorded, turns out they're barely even spraying fuel at WOT. So I guess I didn't do too good of cleaning job. This may not fix my issue 100%, but I just put them in and I'm letting my fouled plugs dry out (brand new NGK plugs). So I guess in a few hours I'll fire it up. Also I checked that CKP sensor and from what I could see, it was clean. I'll post another update when the bike fires up correctly. I appreciate everyone's input so far. It for sure helped eliminate a lot of my diagnosing and I've learned a few new things along the way.

I'll post an update tonight or tomorrow.
 
#15 ·
You should most definitely do a flow and pressure test. I'm not sure if you mentioned if you changed, or cleaned the secondary high pressure filter in the pump assembly.
It's difficult to get to, and it's really expensive. So, back flushing it is your first step.
 
#18 ·
So What are you/Suzuki saying Bill?

Now that we're wearing masks more, we'll live longer? LOL
 
#19 ·
Okay so I've done a few things since the last update.

1.) New fuel pump, got rid of the big filter, at the moment I'm only running a screen on the pump itself but I WILL get an inline filter. I have a 45 psi pressure regulator, and at the moment the entire system is only fuel line, no big filter or canister.

2,) I ordered brand new injectors and there is a HUUUUGE difference in the fuel output. The injectors spray a shit ton more than the other ones. So at the moment, the entire fuel system is clean and new.

3.) I found my issue with it hardly running/bogging.....THE IAP/BOOST SENSOR ON THE AIR BOX. I left the sensor plugged in, but I pulled the vacuum hose off it and now the bike redlines like its brand new. No bogging, no dying, BUT now the bike is super rich and acts like it doesn't have enough fuel under load at around 6,000 and up.

4.) New NGK iridium plugs installed, coils don't seem like they are bad but I do need to get a multimeter and test them.

5.) TPS has been adjust to -C00 and I tightened any slack in the throttle cable.

As the bike sits now, I'm assuming the rich state is coming from the bad sensor. There is no FI light, but that doesn't mean the sensor isn't dirty/clogged right? I've heard of other people having to replace it with NO FI light. Part number is 15620-35F00 for the sensor I can't find too much information on it other than its expensive and people never post it if fixed their problem by replacing it.

"The sensor provides instant manifold pressure information to the engine's electronic control unit. The data is used to calculate air density and determine the engine's air mass flow rate, which in turn determines the required fuel delivery for perfect combustion. A fuel-injected engine may use a MAF sensor or a Pressure sensor-- or sometimes even both-- to detect the intake airflow."

Judging off that quote of a MAP sensor's function, I won't be able to diagnose my rich problem until I fix it? Even when I plug the vacuum line with a screw the bike runs pretty good, so it isn't technically a vacuum leak at that point. I tried the exact same sensor off my friend's wrecked 2002 GSXR 750 and nothing happened differently.

As far as cutting out at 6k rpm and up, I think that would be the cause from my overpriced fuel filter bypass. I think these bikes need a volume of fuel sitting at all times rather than just high pressure in a few fuel lines. I know I know...call me dumb, but it was better than paying upwards of $600+ just for me to MAYBE solve my initial issue.

Resolution: Plenty of fuel pressure (not enough volume/flow), assumed sufficient spark, weird vacuum issue with MAP/IAP/Boost sensor (it has multiple names on GSXRs). While I get the kit I need to test fuel flow/volume, if someone has any input on if I need a canister-like filter that holds a decent volume or not, that would be great. Considering this is a 1000cc bike I would think that it needs more than just pressure. As far as the map sensor goes, do they go bad without an FI light, and do you think it was coincidental that my buddies same part number sensor on his 750 was bad too?

Additional comment: This bike is running in the best state it ever has, when I first got it, it barely ran at all. Now it seems like it has full power up to 6krpm and it runs rich enough to blow black smoke at high RPM when revving in neutral. I know I'm getting close to it being 100% fixed, I just need a few more Guru thoughts on it and what I should do. My uncle has 500hp K1 1000 and if he can get an external fuel system running on boost, I should be able to at least replace the stock filter on mine with a canister like filter and it hold enough fuel to let me reach top end under load.
 
#27 ·
Okay so I've done a few things since the last update.

1.) New fuel pump, got rid of the big filter, at the moment I'm only running a screen on the pump itself but I WILL get an inline filter. I have a 45 psi pressure regulator, and at the moment the entire system is only fuel line, no big filter or canister.

2,) I ordered brand new injectors and there is a HUUUUGE difference in the fuel output. The injectors spray a shit ton more than the other ones. So at the moment, the entire fuel system is clean and new.

3.) I found my issue with it hardly running/bogging.....THE IAP/BOOST SENSOR ON THE AIR BOX. I left the sensor plugged in, but I pulled the vacuum hose off it and now the bike redlines like its brand new. No bogging, no dying, BUT now the bike is super rich and acts like it doesn't have enough fuel under load at around 6,000 and up.

4.) New NGK iridium plugs installed, coils don't seem like they are bad but I do need to get a multimeter and test them.

5.) TPS has been adjust to -C00 and I tightened any slack in the throttle cable.

As the bike sits now, I'm assuming the rich state is coming from the bad sensor. There is no FI light, but that doesn't mean the sensor isn't dirty/clogged right? I've heard of other people having to replace it with NO FI light. Part number is 15620-35F00 for the sensor I can't find too much information on it other than its expensive and people never post it if fixed their problem by replacing it.

"The sensor provides instant manifold pressure information to the engine's electronic control unit. The data is used to calculate air density and determine the engine's air mass flow rate, which in turn determines the required fuel delivery for perfect combustion. A fuel-injected engine may use a MAF sensor or a Pressure sensor-- or sometimes even both-- to detect the intake airflow."

Judging off that quote of a MAP sensor's function, I won't be able to diagnose my rich problem until I fix it? Even when I plug the vacuum line with a screw the bike runs pretty good, so it isn't technically a vacuum leak at that point. I tried the exact same sensor off my friend's wrecked 2002 GSXR 750 and nothing happened differently.

As far as cutting out at 6k rpm and up, I think that would be the cause from my overpriced fuel filter bypass. I think these bikes need a volume of fuel sitting at all times rather than just high pressure in a few fuel lines. I know I know...call me dumb, but it was better than paying upwards of $600+ just for me to MAYBE solve my initial issue.

Resolution: Plenty of fuel pressure (not enough volume/flow), assumed sufficient spark, weird vacuum issue with MAP/IAP/Boost sensor (it has multiple names on GSXRs). While I get the kit I need to test fuel flow/volume, if someone has any input on if I need a canister-like filter that holds a decent volume or not, that would be great. Considering this is a 1000cc bike I would think that it needs more than just pressure. As far as the map sensor goes, do they go bad without an FI light, and do you think it was coincidental that my buddies same part number sensor on his 750 was bad too?

Additional comment: This bike is running in the best state it ever has, when I first got it, it barely ran at all. Now it seems like it has full power up to 6krpm and it runs rich enough to blow black smoke at high RPM when revving in neutral. I know I'm getting close to it being 100% fixed, I just need a few more Guru thoughts on it and what I should do. My uncle has 500hp K1 1000 and if he can get an external fuel system running on boost, I should be able to at least replace the stock filter on mine with a canister like filter and it hold enough fuel to let me reach top end under load.
Wouldn't your problem be related to camshaft sensor say for a car if it won't Rev past 6k (2800)in a car it's a timing issue it ant adjust fuel/spark ratio timing correctly causing it to bog dwn
 
#21 ·
I believe the intake air pressure sensor is the same part as the ambient air pressure sensor part. You could swap them and see if there is any difference.

By disconnecting the IAP sensor you are providing the sensor with full atmospheric pressure as it would see pretty much with wide open throttle. Of course the IAP is telling this to the ECM which acts accordingly and throws in more fuel.
 
#25 ·
If you remove the screw in the line, can you feel any vacuum/suction on it when the bike is running?
 
#29 ·
I bought aftermarket injectors (for a different application) and they ran rich. As they run purely on timing, no feedback, the lambda will be only as good as the calibration of the injectors you got.

How confident are you that they are perfect calibration? Are they OEM? If not, who made them?
 
#31 ·
I bought aftermarket injectors (for a different application) and they ran rich. As they run purely on timing, no feedback, the lambda will be only as good as the calibration of the injectors you got.

How confident are you that they are perfect calibration? Are they OEM? If not, who made them?
Check the exhaust temperature for each of the header pipes. I'm betting you're running on two cylinders mostly. Check by unplugging fuel injectors to see if you find something. Mine ended up running on cylinders 1 and 4 mostly. 2 and 3 were useless.
While it's great advice, are we still talking to the OP in the 2 year old thread? Asking for a friend.
 
#32 ·
Honestly, these threads show up in google searches so I'm talking to anyone who is looking for diagnosing advice. I would also consider if the bike is a California version and making sure that the charcoal canister is blocked off properly. I found some errant open vacuum lines which may have affected the issue. I'm still in the process of deep diagnostic work. So I will update these as I go.
 
#33 ·
FYI, I Ohm tested the wacky harness I had on the bike and it seems to be solid even though completely jerry rigged. I'll replace it anyway, but I also got throttle body assembly from a Florida bike so it doesn't have weird CARB crap on it (which brought my attention to the fact that my charcoal canister led to nowhere. I'm in Utah so wasn't expecting this bike be a California version. But during the throttle body exchange the plastic boots connecting them to the engine (well one of them) decided to crack and break. So now I'm waiting on some decent ones from NC. Will update on Saturday or Sunday. Seriously, if this doesn't fix it, the only other thing left in the circuit (as far as I understand) is the ECU. All other sensors and injectors are up to par.
 
#34 ·
Oh and GSXR600/750/1000 and Hayabusa (2000-200(whenever first gen Hayabusa was done) all have the same injectors. $40 on Amazon brand new. $26 or so on eBay. Secondary fuel filters (the big black plastic thing that houses the fuel pump) are crazy expensive for GSXR ($300) but like $26.00 for Hayabusa and Vstrom 1000. Same thing (a little shorter but supplying 1300cc at 11.5K rpm vs 1000 cc at 12.250 is really about the same) but you have to hold the fuel level gauge on with a clamp instead of plastic clip fittings. So far that is all I found which could be helpful to someone later down the road.
 
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