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Throttle and shifting inquiry

2K views 11 replies 4 participants last post by  QRO 
#1 ·
Okay, so I’m new to the sport bike scene. My other bikes have always been cruisers. I don’t have anyone around my area that I can really ask the question so I figured I’d ask you all. Is it normal for the throttle of the bike to feel a bit (not really sure how to put it) stiff at certain speeds. I mostly notice it in 5th gear if I’m doing about 52-60mph. It’s not really a resistance but just feels strange to me. If I accelerate it goes away quickly. Not sure if this is a user issue, a bike issue, not an issue. This has by far been my favorite bike (my baby, if you will) and I think I’m still in that “every small thing I do may screw it up” phase.

bike info: 2022 Suzuki GSX-R750
Mileage: ~450-475.
 
#2 ·
Welcome to the forum.

Are you describing more of a hesitation or actually sticking of the throttle? Since you notice it more in a certain gear, I'm guessing the former.

If it is a slight hesitation, getting the rpm up (try a lower gear) should get you out of this area.

I'm guessing you are seeing the big difference between a v-twin cruiser where it makes lots of torque at 1500-2000 rpm and these bikes that are not real happy below 3500-4000 rpm and really start working right about 8k+.

When I'm on it, I shift to 2nd at about 80 mph to give you an idea of the engine range these bikes have.
 
#3 ·
You are correct. It’s a hesitation. That is a great word for it. It’s so odd to think that two styles of bikes would ride so differently. When I come into 5th I’m usually running 3-4k rpms. I think I need to get out of that high rpms = bad mentality that is kinda engrained. I’m just so glad you understood what I was talking about. Thank you.
 
#4 ·
It is not unusual for many bikes now to have some hesitation with small throttle opening. The new EURO standards really make them run lean down low. This can be tuned out if it is really annoying but it is usually not an issue if are on the throttle a little more aggressively.

Welcome to the 750, they are great bikes.
 
#5 ·
So far I’m enjoying it so much more than my cruisers. Given, I have wanted a GSX-R since I was a early teenager. So far it’s lived up to the expectation and excitement young me always thought about.
Thank you all for having me in the forum and the 750 club. I’m sure this will not be my last post of questions. Haha
 
#6 ·
Show us some pics, or it never happened LOL.

I for one am also a 'gear Nazi'. As in boots, gloves, pants, jacket, helmet. You can go with mesh stuff that breathes pretty well. I have an Icon mesh jacket for the hotter days.

Have fun, stay safe, and post often!
 
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#7 ·
This sounds like a (normal) dip in your torque curve. It is just one of those things to understand about your machine and for you to master to gain maximum control with it.

If you look at many dyno curves you may see little dips in the torque line. Ideally that would be flat; same torque at any speed equals same acceleration force at any speed.

The probable reasons you haven't noticed on your cruiser are a) it is not tuned so hard, so the engineers had scope to design the torque curve to be flat (just knocked off the peaks with engine mapping), b) it does not use a ram effect, where the oncoming air is pressed into the air box, which creates resonances at certain air speeds and c) the volume of the air box will resonate at certain air flow rates (the main reason for torque dips), this is an effect called Helmholtz resonance, and your cruiser can accommodate a larger air box. It is less noticeable on cars (if any effect at all) because they can accommodate such large air boxes to shift that resonance away from operating speeds, but bikes are a bit more constrained in the range of their air box volumes.

It is a sheer luxury that sports bikes these days offer pretty much flat torque curves. In the days of carburettors, all sorts of strange effects could occur, and none so more than on 2-strokes. The engine of my KR1S could quite literally stall if you tried to run it between 5 and 5.5k rpm, like many highly tuned 2 strokes, and occasionally on smaller 4 strokes, as the intake resonance reaches a peak the intake air will pass through the carb, bounce back off the closing valve, pick up a second charge of fuel as it exits the carb the wrong way, and then picks up a 3rd charge of fuel once the intake port opens again. Result is 3 times over-rich and the cylinder stalls. Various solutions to this have been devised over time, "power valve" (RD 350), "rotax" (a rotary port), "reed valve" (RG250 I think? Rotax also moved to reed valves, AFAIK, but that rather undermined their founding name!!! 🤷‍♀️) and my own, KIPS valves on the Kawasaski.

So, think yourselves lucky that all we get these days with fuel injected 4 strokes is 'a slight hesitation'!! Or maybe ... we're not so lucky any more and all of that was "characterness" that's part of the thrill of the ride and somewhat missing these days .. take your pick! ;)

Good luck with that then, @22GSXR750 , and consider it part of your bike's 'personality' it sounds quite normal.
 
#8 ·
I’m so glad it’s just my bike’s “personality”. After the advice of this forum I’ve run it at higher RPMs and the “hesitation” in fact disappeared. I have to thank you all so much. My concerns have been alleviated. You guys have been a tremendous help. Just cleaned and lubed the chain. Doing the oil change today. I’m sure I’ll freak out with something so I’ll be back. Haha.
 
#9 ·
Didn’t think it was appropriate to start a new post just to gripe. Just did my 600 mile oil change myself. (Closest dealership wanted at least $150.00 and wanted me to leave my bike with them for a couple of days). Why are these fairing clips so annoying? Broke a couple. Cussed a lot. The oil change was easy. I still have the left fairing off and plan to get back at it tomorrow, but why are these clips such a pain?!
 
#10 ·
There are a couple of different type fairiring clips. Most are push pin type. You just push in the center part then pull the whole thing out. With the pin out, push the center back so it sticks out the top to reset it.
 
#12 ·
Maybe post your experience and add some photos to warn others?

My L0 was pretty obvious how it came off. In fact, the arrangement works well, two screws at the top and one way down, then there are 3 push-in knobs into rubber holders. Two plug-type plastic clips hold the two parts together at the bottom.

Is the later one not the same design? Worked well for me.

You do realise (just checking?) you are meant to push through the middles (with a small allen key or such), then they just come out easy? I still dislike them and have replaced with cheap screw type plastic clips, having the 'screw' feature means you always have something to get a tool on to if they are stiff, without getting things between the clip and the paintwork. 10 clips for a couple of buck off ebay, I replaced them all.
 
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