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Discussion Starter #61 (Edited)
OK, So todays little project:

The infamous pair valve mod.- For NO reason, my bike Never pops on decelleration.
Why do it then? To get a few things that are not needed off the top of the motor.
My ECU flash was supposed to disable it anyways. If it throws a code, I'll splice an 18-22ohm resister in there, or easier yet, just plug the selenoid back in with hoses detached.
I'm not into spending money on something when there is no need to. LIke Billit block off plates.

I read many threads on this, one of my shorter favorites is:
https://www.gixxer.com/threads/free-pair-mod.336087/

*, in case you didn't already know, unless you want to check on your air filter, you CAN remove the entire air box even easier w/o taking the top off! Mine is still a box now during this project.

I used a piece of the original hose, and branched it between where they face the inside- so as to directrly connect them to one another. It doesn't need a pic.

I had removed the PAIR valve to get the valve cover out of the frame easier when checking my valve clearances. It's still apart, so I"m doing a few other things too.

I also cut the hose under the air box, and inserted an Otrange wire nut into the end- fit tight and perfectly.
So now my PAIR is removed- for free!

** Then I got to thinking about the Crankcase Breather Mod- that puts a vacuum on the line and I have actually read a post where they did it during a dyno session, and it gained 2 HP!

It is mentioned in the thread I liked also.

** This is done by putting a 'T' fitting between the 2 pair plates and running the crankcase breather to it, dwhere it has some vacuum on it.

I'm not going to run it to a bottle, filter though. My airbox stays clean, it's not a problem going to the air box now.

But, 2HP is 2 HP!

So, those that know about this, do I have to go under the plates and remove the reed valves? Or will it work with the reed valves still under the plates?

TIA
 

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OK, So todays little project:

The infamous pair valve mod.- For NO reason, my bike Never pops on decelleration.
Why do it then? To get a few things that are not needed off the top of the motor.
My ECU flash was supposed to disable it anyways. If it throws a code, I'll splice an 18-22ohm resister in there, or easier yet, just plug the selenoid back in with hoses detached.
I'm not into spending money on something when there is no need to. LIke Billit block off plates.

I read many threads on this, one of my shorter favorites is:
https://www.gixxer.com/threads/free-pair-mod.336087/

*, in case you didn't already know, unless you want to check on your air filter, you CAN remove the entire air box even easier w/o taking the top off! Mine is still a box now during this project.

I used a piece of the original hose, and branched it between where they face the inside- so as to directrly connect them to one another. It doesn't need a pic.

I had removed the PAIR valve to get the valve cover out of the frame easier when checking my valve clearances. It's still apart, so I"m doing a few other things too.

I also cut the hose under the air box, and inserted an Otrange wire nut into the end- fit tight and perfectly.
So now my PAIR is removed- for free!

** Then I got to thinking about the Crankcase Breather Mod- that puts a vacuum on the line and I have actually read a post where they did it during a dyno session, and it gained 2 HP!

It is mentioned in the thread I liked also.

** This is done by putting a 'T' fitting between the 2 pair plates and running the crankcase breather to it, dwhere it has some vacuum on it.

I'm not going to run it to a bottle, filter though. My airbox stays clean, it's not a problem going to the air box now.

But, 2HP is 2 HP!

So, those that know about this, do I have to go under the plates and remove the reed valves? Or will it work with the reed valves still under the plates?

TIA
Easier to just open the air box and cap where the pair valve pulls the air. Did it on all three of my bikes. Lift the tank take the top of the air box off and cap the nipple in the air box. Done deal.
 

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So, those that know about this, do I have to go under the plates and remove the reed valves? Or will it work with the reed valves still under the plates?

TIA
I think the reed valves are what prevents pressure from backing up into the pair system keeping it under vacuum. I would keep it in place if your intention is to maintain a slight vacuum to the crankcase.

Still amazes me they found 2hp in this mod. I wonder if a dyno run will vary 2hp from pull to pull?
 

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I think he means horsepower from connecting the crankcase breather to the pair valve system to try to pull a slight vacuum in the crankcase to reduce cranking losses. ol' drag racing trick sometimes putting a vacuum pump to the crankcase.
I've never seen it proven on a dyno that the exhaust ports pull enough vacuum to make more power when connected that way, but I haven't really looked, either.
 

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I think he means horsepower from connecting the crankcase breather to the pair valve system to try to pull a slight vacuum in the crankcase to reduce cranking losses. ol' drag racing trick sometimes putting a vacuum pump to the crankcase.
I've never seen it proven on a dyno that the exhaust ports pull enough vacuum to make more power when connected that way, but I haven't really looked, either.
The pair valve only works at low RPM you can clearly see that in the link. I know they used to use a pan evac system in drag racing that consisted of a hose from the valve covers to a one way valve on the collector on each header. These only worked at high RPMs
 

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havent looked at the link, but it is my impression that there are waves of positive and negative pressure in the exhaust port throughout the range of rpms and throttle opening. The PAIR however only opens at low or closed throttle positions to help burn the HC left over from incomplete combustion. He wanted to remove the pair and hook up the crankcase breather to the port. the PAIR valve is completely removed from the equation.
 

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Discussion Starter #68
Easier to just open the air box and cap where the pair valve pulls the air. Did it on all three of my bikes. Lift the tank take the top of the air box off and cap the nipple in the air box. Done deal.
Yes JM, I agree, but I was already in there, and removed the solenoid to get the valve cover out of the frame easier for the valve clearance check. Pretty sure mine has been ECU deleted anyways, 'cz it never pops on decel anyways. The bike will never need it now, so I'm removing some of the system- namely the solenoid.

I think the reed valves are what prevents pressure from backing up into the pair system keeping it under vacuum. I would keep it in place if your intention is to maintain a slight vacuum to the crankcase.

Still amazes me they found 2hp in this mod. I wonder if a dyno run will vary 2hp from pull to pull?
I agree on leaving the reeds in there, to either plug it, but especially if I'm hooking the breather to it!
I can't find that link after kinda searching for days, but I know I've seen it more than once. The actually put it on and off, and +2, and 2 less everytime.

I think he means horsepower from connecting the crankcase breather to the pair valve system to try to pull a slight vacuum in the crankcase to reduce cranking losses. ol' drag racing trick sometimes putting a vacuum pump to the crankcase.
I've never seen it proven on a dyno that the exhaust ports pull enough vacuum to make more power when connected that way, but I haven't really looked, either.
Yes, but easy to do and nearly free, it's worth a try!
 

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Discussion Starter #69
Thanks JM. Even I'm not that squidly to think disabling the PAIR would give you gains. It is really only needed when the aftermarket exhausts cause popping on decel. I'm aware what it does. Thanks for that link. As the link kinda shows, the solenoid really only works at low RPMs for emission puprposes. Without the solenoid, I'm thinking/hoping it will pull some vacuum the higher the R's.

havent looked at the link, but it is my impression that there are waves of positive and negative pressure in the exhaust port throughout the range of rpms and throttle opening. The PAIR however only opens at low or closed throttle positions to help burn the HC left over from incomplete combustion. He wanted to remove the pair and hook up the crankcase breather to the port. the PAIR valve is completely removed from the equation.
+1, yes. But in this case, the solenoid the controls the PAIR valve is mainly whats being removed. The reeds/plates on the motor are run to each other right now. I'm probably going to cap each off seperately, and/or try to T off the Crankicase breather to it! It can't hurt anyways.
 

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Discussion Starter #70
Here's a short vid of a vacuum gauge on the PAIR reed plates showing vacuum, and increased vacuum with rpm.
This was done how I'm going to do it, with the solenoid deleted too.


Here's a Long, old thread on the subject, from a Kawi forum (from google search).
Here's a post mentioning repeatable gains, there are others in the thread as well.

Lot's of discussion about NOT deleting the reed valves in the valve cover either. :wink

https://www.zx-10r.net/threads/how-to-crankcase-vent-mod.79931/page-3
 

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Discussion Starter #71
I got the valve cover back on,
hooked most things back up, started it until warm- no leaks @ the valve cover.

Here is my Crankcase breather to Pair valve bypass.

[img

]https://i.imgur.com/MPdtMfDm.jpg[/img]



Even with the airbox off and plastics off- engine was quiet!

Sounded good.
 

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Here's something to consider for the next time that you top up the damper:


It's just a piece of vinyl tubing over the fluid fill boss. I keep it topped with an eyedropper. You can remove and reinstall the screw without removing the tubing.

However that was ten years ago. I've since switched to an Ohlins and the air leakage was gone.
 

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Discussion Starter #73
Here's something to consider for the next time that you top up the damper:


It's just a piece of vinyl tubing over the fluid fill boss. I keep it topped with an eyedropper. You can remove and reinstall the screw without removing the tubing.

However that was ten years ago. I've since switched to an Ohlins and the air leakage was gone.
Thanks Bill V!

While mine still worked, it sure had some air in there and some play spots when moving the inner plunger/piston for sure.
Now, solid When pushing it from end to end!
 

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Discussion Starter #74
Christmas Day, got to 50F Today, That's about 25 over average today.

Hung the front from my ceiling hangers and got the front wheel off.
Inspected the front pads- still plenty of meat left.
Changed out my front fender- mine had a broken left rear mount for at least a year. Had an extra fender lying around- fixed.
Cleaned errything up up there, re installed my lower triple guard and front lower cowling.
Bled the brakes, got a few bubbles visible in the clear plastic hose I use.
Even tighter again the lever feel.

Called it a day- Wednesday- and Christmas!

I love these winter projects. My completion pace is going really well taking advantage of these warm winter temperatures while I can!
 

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Discussion Starter #75
Worked until 3pm today. It was 55F out!
Todays little projects:
With the front end still hanging a bit, I loosened up the steering crown nut, tapped on the upper lock ring a bit to loosen, then tapped on the lower lock ring to snug the steering head bearings a smidge, and tightened the top one up again, etc.

This also gave me a chance to modify slightly the Ram mount in the stem hole, so it is tighter now.

Next little task is to re set the dampers front and rear to the settings suggested in an article from SportBike Rider Mag, and adjust from there again.

Can't wait for the next season!
 

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Discussion Starter #76
Todays projects- simple ones

Got the bike straight up and on both wheels- and like usual, too much oil in the sight glass! I pretty much have always rode it with about 1/2 US quart too much- that doesn't seem to really affect this Liter bike that much as far as oil into the air cleaner box via vent tube.
Mine has stayed pretty dry.
Now it's vented to the exhaust PAIR port- so I don't want it a smoking! Hence paying a little more attention to it.
So I drained about 1/2 quart, now it's on the F line as it should be with this new oil change.

I also re-adjusted my suspension some all three adjustments.
I'll see how it feels this coming season, and adjust a bit more if needed.

* I'm trying to figure out what else I can do, need to do while it's at the front end hanger with the plastics off!
Any other suggestions I've overlooked?
 

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Were
For those that are think'n that I already have a thread on this bike- It was deleted by the Admin/mods, etc..

So, this thread is for my K5 LiterBike- #2.0

#1.0 was GSXR.com BOTM in December 2016
I do plan on finishing the cosmetics on that one soon.- It still has a thread.

This is #2.0



This bike currently has:
ECU flash
No SET valve
Ti midpipe
Level One Racing Muffler
K&N air filter
Dunlop Q3's
Blue Double Bubble Wind Screen
Fender Elim.

Coming soon:
  • Driven 520 chain/sprocket set; -1 / +1
  • swapping my Yoshimura Full Carbon Muffler
  • Swapping wheels with a new set of Dunlop Q3+'s
  • Swapping my newly rebuilt forks from#1 to #2
  • Swapping my Venhill SS brake lines from #1 to #2
It currently has a pretty new set of Dunlop Q3's on it w/ the 190/55 rear, that I plan on putting on the K5 #1.0- 'cause,
I just purchased a new set of Dunlop Q3+, that I'll be putting on #2.0 in the pictures.
This is part of the preparation for a trip to Deals Gap area first week of May'18.

They say that using the 190/55 rear- is like putting a -1 sprocket on the rear.
So, I'm going to go with a Driven Chain and sprocket set- in a 520 pitch,
I'll be going with -1/+1, so it will really be like a -1 counter sprocket, 'cause the 190/55 and the +1 kinda even out the ratio back to what it was.
 

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Worked until 3pm today. It was 55F out!
Todays little projects:
With the front end still hanging a bit, I loosened up the steering crown nut, tapped on the upper lock ring a bit to loosen, then tapped on the lower lock ring to snug the steering head bearings a smidge, and tightened the top one up again, etc.

This also gave me a chance to modify slightly the Ram mount in the stem hole, so it is tighter now.

Next little task is to re set the dampers front and rear to the settings suggested in an article from SportBike Rider Mag, and adjust from there again.

Can't wait for the next season!
I found the settings from sportbike mag was out to lunch. Too hard & aggressive for road riding. And I'm 200 lbs.
 

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Discussion Starter #79
Well, bored here at work, so I was surfing the web.- I know, Right?

I broke down and ordered a set of EBC HH pads for the front!
Found a good deal on FleaBay for new in package set for ! $52 shipped. That's ! $20 less than some of the sets I saw- for the exact same pads.

I'll install them soon when I replace that little hose from the reservoir to the MC- that was worn thru and almost leaking on mine! Glad I dodged that bullet!

I'm going to finish up these little projects soon, in time for the warmer days up here in the North AFTER the salt residue is off the streets!
My 15y/o ride needs all the help in can get, to stay Purty.
 

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Discussion Starter #80
I found the settings from sportbike mag was out to lunch. Too hard & aggressive for road riding. And I'm 200 lbs.
I'd agree, they keep it from 'floating' though when riding sort of 'hard and agressive?
 
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