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Discussion Starter #81
So, the Reservoir hose was delivered.
I decided I wanted to take off the snap ring holding the pipe/elbow to the MC so I could be sure I could change the angle of it w/o messing anything up, and to see that it all looked OK under it.



But I didn't have a good way to take off the snap ring- w.o buggering something up using instruments that were not really designed to remove the snap ring.

Then I realized! My neighbor Phil! A pharmacist by trade, who also used to be a mechanic, still works on just about everything and has just about every odd ball tool there is.
Luck would have it, I'm off this morning, and I see his SUV is still here- called him, he's off too!
Ask him if he has any snap ring pliers, he thinks so, but hasn't seen them in years. While he's on the short phone call= he finds them!



I walk over, we talk stories a few minutes, and I have them to complete this task the right way!

So, pretty soon, new EBC HH pads up front, new fluid- stoppie time LOL!
 

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I'd agree, they keep it from 'floating' though when riding sort of 'hard and agressive?
Definitely doesn't float but I find it wants to throw me off the bike. This is on street though.

Probably the original owner on my bike changed springs or fork oil.
 

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For what it is worth this video takes you through some suspension set up based on your weight and the existing set up of the bike. Mr. Code is considered a reliable source by many.

 

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With regard to PAIR block-off plates, I made my own from CF sheet:

I like how the clutter on the top of the engine is reduced.

It seems strange that your reservoir hose rubs on the fairing. The closest that mine gets, admittedly with different parts is about 1 1/4". But even if it rubbed, that was at full lock which doesn't happen in normal riding.
 

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For what it is worth this video takes you through some suspension set up based on your weight and the existing set up of the bike. Mr. Code is considered a reliable source by many.

John Sharrad is Canadian I believe & he's featured in a few motorcycle magazines. He's a wizard in the art of suspension.
 

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SuperMod of the North
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With regard to PAIR block-off plates, I made my own from CF sheet:

I like how the clutter on the top of the engine is reduced.

It seems strange that your reservoir hose rubs on the fairing. The closest that mine gets, admittedly with different parts is about 1 1/4". But even if it rubbed, that was at full lock which doesn't happen in normal riding.
That is a clean set up. Someone needs to come up here and make my wiring harness look that good. Just sayin.

John Sharrad is Canadian I believe & he's featured in a few motorcycle magazines. He's a wizard in the art of suspension.
Haven't heard of him, a Canuck you say? Will investigate, thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #88
With regard to PAIR block-off plates, I made my own from CF sheet:

I like how the clutter on the top of the engine is reduced.

It seems strange that your reservoir hose rubs on the fairing. The closest that mine gets, admittedly with different parts is about 1 1/4". But even if it rubbed, that was at full lock which doesn't happen in normal riding.
Awesome Bill- that is clean!
I'm going to get a few more ponies, using my PAIR system now as a vacuum on the crankcase breather.
It ain't much, but even 2 help! I'm assuming you added the resister to get rid of the lightr from the PAIR selenoid disconnect?

You may not have noticed that I had moved my stock clip-ons ABOVE the upper triple, so that in fact had that little hose rubbing just a bit, at full lock like you say. This was done to let my 'ol back a little break by raising the grips ~ 2". That's why I'm going to move the angle of the elbow out of the MC so that it won't rub anymore. Luckily for my OEM fairings- it didn't leak- yet.
 

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Discussion Starter #89
Accelerated Technologies. Check him out in Milton, I believe.

Sorry to thread jack.

NP on the hijack! It's all good, the more we know about things, the better off we are!
Thanks for posting!
 

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So, the Reservoir hose was delivered.
I decided I wanted to take off the snap ring holding the pipe/elbow to the MC so I could be sure I could change the angle of it w/o messing anything up, and to see that it all looked OK under it.



But I didn't have a good way to take off the snap ring- w.o buggering something up using instruments that were not really designed to remove the snap ring.

Then I realized! My neighbor Phil! A pharmacist by trade, who also used to be a mechanic, still works on just about everything and has just about every odd ball tool there is.
Luck would have it, I'm off this morning, and I see his SUV is still here- called him, he's off too!
Ask him if he has any snap ring pliers, he thinks so, but hasn't seen them in years. While he's on the short phone call= he finds them!



I walk over, we talk stories a few minutes, and I have them to complete this task the right way!

So, pretty soon, new EBC HH pads up front, new fluid- stoppie time LOL!
I have found this pair of snap-ring pliers to be particularly handy: it works for inside & outside rings & comes with various sizes of pins.

 

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K-D Tools used to offer their No. 444 snap ring tool kit. It apparently is long gone but can be found on ebay.
 

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Discussion Starter #92
I have found this pair of snap-ring pliers to be particularly handy: it works for inside & outside rings & comes with various sizes of pins.

K-D Tools used to offer their No. 444 snap ring tool kit. It apparently is long gone but can be found on ebay.
Thanks guys, But
Ive got my neighbor Phil, he has just about everything- even that funny looking bit to take off the bolts to the ignition switch, BIG sockets like for the steering stem cap, etc. - so there is that LOL
 

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With regard to various smaller bits like the T40 tamper proof for the ignition switch, I bought one of these kits and a Craftsman 46221 socket. I pulled the T15 bit out of the socket, removed the socket's retaining ring and stretched it a bit so that bits could be removed & reinstalled by hand, and use it with the other bits. It can also be used with various Phillips bits.
 

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Discussion Starter #94
I got the new clear hose (for brake fluid) mounted, just barely clears with the way I have my clip-ons above the upper triple.
I spared ya'll the picture ;-)
 

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Discussion Starter #95
My ECU finally got delivered today!
After work I put 'er in.
Wow, that large O-ring that goes across the top to hold it in place is hard to put on.
I had to use both hands, and hold my tongue just right- finally got it.

He sent the ECU back saying he checked over the previous flash, everything was all correct, but he couldn't delete the PAIR valve MIL light! That's what I sent him the ECU for this time! He said the software is not available, until 2008 to delete the PAIR/STVA. Oh well, he suggested what I'm doing, which is leave it plugged in with the hoses off.
Since the Air filter box port for it has been plugged, and the crankcase breather is now connected to the PAIR valves,
that's what I'll do.
Yes I know I can get a special plug, and a resister- 'cept I don't want/need to do that at this time.

I DID unplug my SET servo motor thingy to see if I could remove that since the ground wire to the system has been cut going to the ECU.
Started the bike- waited, warmed it up, gave it a few little revs- DAMN this thing sounds good.
* NO MIL lights!! Revs great, etc.

So I finally took to removing the servo motor. Held in by 2x 5mm bolts.





This is with it removed:





It's been unhooked since I got the Bike, and I knew I'd never need it or use it again, so out it went.

After checking the valve clearances- none needed adjustment, and tightening the MCCT I had installed last year while I had the valve cover off, the motor sounded awesome. With no plastics on, and no ear plugs or helmet on, it was still nice and quiet!

Next few days plastics going back on- and hitting the road soon enough.
The salt's gone off the roadways now too. It did snow today, very light, nothing stuck to the road way.

Stay Healthy and safe people!
 

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"So I finally took to removing the servo motor. Held in by 2x 5mm bolts."
The motor is attached to a holder bracket by two M6 screws. But I've forgotten how the holder is mounted or to what. Is it by some M5 screws?
 

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Discussion Starter #97
Good Morning Bill, I hope you and your family are well! We are luckily.
Anyways, I had thought that the one nice long T handled hex tool I have is infact a 5mm. Im really not sure so I went to the garage and looked and it's an Eklind 5mm # 54950 made in USA. It looks like the aft bolt mounts to the upper shock tower for attachement.

When I mentioned the way the motor/exhaust sounded, ya'll would think it was because I have cranked/heard it in a few weeks. But actually it did change slightly- b/c of the Crankcase to the PAIR valve, w/o the selenoid attached. The selenoid would only let air in when the motor was at of near idle. This sucks some air ** out the exhaust port only, not to the intake, all the time! So it does change the exhaust sound a bit.

Today, and/or tomorrow I'll get the side plastics back on. As I dodge this Corona Especial Virus!
 

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Discussion Starter #98 (Edited)
Got the plastics back on, and me and a friend went for a ride this afternoon!
He has a ZX6R.
It was sunny, and 36F!



Things like changing my suspension settings, Bleeding my Steering damper, tightening the headset, and tightening the Cam chain with my MCCT really made a noticeable difference! What a great ride, first 2020!

* I've always wondered what these wires are in my rear compartment? There are two wires doming off this plug, and ending with tape on them under the rear seat.
Below the plug, I looked and think it is light blue, light brown?

Was this for a Dealer mode switch? Certainly not a power commander with only 2 wires? What ?



The end wires are Black with white stripe, and grey, but the plug going to it was light blue or blue, and pink, or light brown?



I've always wondered what they were for? I've never had to put it in dealer mode (knock on wood). Is that what this is for? WTH is it?


Thanks, stay healthy, stay safe.



T
 

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Discussion Starter #99
I"m hoping Bill V., John, or the likes saw my last post and pictures. I may have to start a new 'WTH is this' thread for that!

When I looked at my front brake pads, they still had a lot of meat on then, and stock is supposed to be factory HH pads.
Even so, I wanted to mention I also installed new EBC sintered HH pads up front a few days ago. I remembered about the first few times I would lack brake efficiency, and the pack says 250 mile break in of non highway miles.
Within a few stops, they are biting WAY better than the good stock pads! Glad I did it.

Stay healthy and safe people
 

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The license plate light gets power from Br and Bl leads on the wiring harness. They change at the connector to Gr and B/W to run to the light. The license plate light is commonly removed when a fender eliminator is installed, oftentimes by a hack who just yanks it apart at the connector. Your leads sound like them. Depending on the design of the fender eliminator, the plate may not be illuminated. Cops tend to not like that, i.e. it's illegal.
 
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