Todd's K6 Liter Track bike - new to me

Unfortunately it looks like the part of the frame your engine mount goes through has fractured straight through...



That looks like a terminal event for the frame. That sucks! 😞

Well, I got off my but and disassembled a few things from that 'off'.

The left frame slider.


I had a Hex that fit the bolt, and I used my steel pipe/cheater bar on the end and tugged like hell.
Using no power tools, I got the frame slider off. It's bent to shit.


Now a look at that mount. B/C all the forces were from the top, only the bottom portion is damaged, with all the meaty portions of the mount still intact.




There is also this frame/engine mount behind it about 4" away.


This is the upper fairing mount screw. Quite the bend on that when just holding the fairings too.


Here's the multi mount plate- Vortex. You can see where the metal 'gave' and cracked. The rear set was bolted in the middle holes near the bottom. You can also see where the whole plate bent to shite!



And lastly, the CRG clutch lever broke. Looks like I took a grinder to it too LOL.


I'm glad I finally took it apart. For a 'high-side', not too bad really. I wasn't going too fast though too.
I think I have a clutch lever that will work. I can rig a mount on the fairing that will work well too.
Still not sure what I'm going to do about the cracked outer frame at the mount. I could possibly have the crack TIG welded?
And I'm going to source the rear set frame mount part. It has a part # stamped on back too.

My right hand that was so injured now has an area like a wrist bone dislocation in it though.
You see that 'bump'? That wasn't there before and my L hand does not have it.

One side of the engine mounts hard to the frame. The other side has bushings/adjusters that allow for a little movement. The hard mount side is also the chain side. Basically, forcing a relative position of the frame, swingarm, and front sprocket. The rear wheel then aligns off the swing arm creating a straight drive line. Parts 13 and 15 in this fiche diagram are these adjusters, and indicate quantity two of 13 & 14 are required. The diagram is a little deceiving. Both parts, as well as #14 go to the right side of the frame. The forward one is where frame sliders mount. If you broke the lip on the left side, it's still a hard mount as long as the meat of the loop is there. It's when you break the clamping force on the pinch bolt for the right side that's a real issue. I think you're good based off the pics. (TBF, I'm thinking seriously about removing my frame sliders).

Another update on my Track Bike.

I had purchased the proper Vortex rear set plate for my bike that had bent in the crash. I also got a new suit, Back protector, Gloves, and Helmet. Santa was good to me.


Today I got the Vortex rear set plate mounted and foot peg and shifter. While I was trying to adjust the height of the shifter, I was turning the adjustment rod- a bit too much- Broke it!
I just ordered 2 new ones.

I also used one of my previous Clutch levers to replace the broken CRG lever.
I made sure the clutch switch still worked as it's still hooked up on this bike. It cranked up with it pulled in. Let it out- it won't crank. Perfect.

I still have to mount the newer fairings, check my front pads- I have a new set of Vesrah's to go on it.

I'd also like to source another rear wheel, in black.
Anyone reading this with a straight rear wheel to fit a K5/6 1000 LMK.

My new/used rear wheel arrived yesterday! The rim edges look great!
I'll to to put a rod in it and roll it to see if it's as true as I think it is.

I have a straight one on there now, but it's a white rear, and a black front.
I wanted both black, not white. IMO Easier and better than having the white one painted/coated black.

So, I replaced my Vortex rear set plate on 1/6/23.



Then adjusting the shifter rod for my quickshifter, I broke it.

2 new rods came a few days ago.



It's snowing today- too lazy to work on it today.

I did put my spare clutch lever on I had, so that works OK again.

I'm debating even painting my newer farings that are going to go on soon too.
I've heard that the chance of going down increases as you paint them. LOL
But I think if I do paint them, of more likely to 'keep my shit' and not go down.
Still on the fence on the painting the fairings.

Hello if reading this!

The PO of my Track Bike had told me the tire warmers worked fine. When I noticed the front was so much newer looking than the rear, he stated he had sent the front in for repair and they just sent back a new one.
When I used them last season, I noticed the Rear where the cord goes in the warmer seemed loose and sometimes I had to wiggle the cord to get the light in it to come on.
Then, it was blink red/green continuously. It seemed to work, but not as hot as the front.

Now that I'm getting a bit better and needing both tires hot from the get-go, I decided to sent the rear one back to them for a repair/replacement.
I had heard they have a good reputation/customer support. I called and spoke to a girl/woman who said no problem, she'll email me the warranty/repair form. She did. I filled it out and will be mailing my rear warmer to them. She said and the form says it's often a $85 flat repair fee + return shipping on my CC.
Sounds good. We'll see what happens.

So, it hit 50 today- got some more work done on my Track bike!

I had purchased another rear wheel- black to replace the white one I have and was using. I had a black one too but didn't really like the bend in it. It was still usable however. The newer black one is straight and no divots/flat spots.

The new rim didn't have a rear disc, it had bearings though. I noticed that the rear disc that came on the Track bike had been drilled too!

Here's the stock rotor on the white rim


The old black rim has those 'captive spacers' on it. I wanted to put those on the newer rim. I watched a YouTube and was able to put the captive spacer on the newer rim.
Here's the disc and captive bearing on the newer rim. Turns out, the 'captive spacer' part is part of the seal.


I already mounted a 90degree valve stem on the rear also, here the newer wheel/rim


So I got my new slick off the White rim. I used my 2x4's and my SUV to get leverage and break the bead on it. I've pictured that before in my thread on that zip tie method. Then I used my Zip Tie technique and removed the slick from my White rim, and was able to mount it on the black rim WITH NO TOOLS! With the zip ties and a little soapy water, you pop half of it on and stand on the edge and walk it on!

I had just been sticking a fiberglass rod the the axle hole and balancing that way.
Then I realized I had bought a knock off Axle cone things that spins on the bearings- like the No mar balancer- it had good reviews!
So I used it for the first time using my 2 x 4x4 as stands. It worked great!


I got the slick and the newer black rim mounted on the bike no problem.
But before I did, I sprayed the back end, swingarm, caliper and hanger with my Kerosene spray bottle and cleaned it up really nice.

Then, in a few days I'll get the front wheel off and see if I need new front pads for the next track days on Memorial Weekend. I've got a set ready to go on. I'll get the newer fairings on it too!

With newer gear, and getting the bike ready I'm really looking forward to this Track season!