[JSabaj]

As the title says, I need some help with my TPS sensor.I have been having trouble with my bike the past couple of months where the engine would shut off when coming to a stop with the clutch disengaged. I checked everything I could, replaced what I could, still no luck. I talked with a Suzuki mechanic and they told me it sounds like an electrical problem, not mechanical. He said to check the ohms reading on the TPS and twisting the throttle.

So, I think the previous owner before me tapped into the TPS wires and made it easy to check if it has gone bad or not. My question is if it a sure way to check the ohms reading, or do I still need to unplug it and check it that way.(I also don’t know what range the ohm reading is supposed to be, I’m thinking 1.5ish to 4?)

With that can I poke the positive end of my multimeter in there and the negative to the engine or negative on the battery?
Appreciate the help!

 

[rv6john]

I can't help you with your TPS question but as far as your stalling issue, what do you have the warm idle speed set at? A low set idle will cause stalling.

Also, what year/model bike are we talking about?

 

[JSabaj]

I can't help you with your TPS question but as far as your stalling issue, what do you have the warm idle speed set at? A low set idle will cause stalling.

Also, what year/model bike are we talking about?

2007 Gsxr 600, right now it’s set to about 1700-1800. The previous owner set it to that, not sure why.

 

[rv6john]

2007 Gsxr 600, right now it’s set to about 1700-1800. The previous owner set it to that, not sure why.

That is above the recommended of 1300 rpm so I'm wondering if there is another idle issue, such as a vacuum leak, and they bumped the idle up to mask it?

When it stalls, I'm guessing it starts right back up?

 

[JSabaj]

That is above the recommended of 1300 rpm so I'm wondering if there is another idle issue, such as a vacuum leak, and they bumped the idle up to mask it?

When it stalls, I'm guessing it starts right back up?

No, when it stalls it cranks but dies again. I have to try 4-5 times while holding the throttle steady or it’ll drop back down to 0rpms. Or sometimes I try and start it back up right away and after a couple of tries it’ll start and idle like it should. It also doesn’t throw any codes when it happens which is confusing.

 

[rv6john]

That almost sounds like you have one cylinder going offline occasionally.

I think it would be hard to determine if, and which, cylinder was going dead so if it was my bike, I'd check the spark plugs and ignition coils first.

Can you add any other observations when it stalls? Does it show CHEC in the temp window after about 5 seconds without doing anything? Any black smoke when it restarts?

 

[JSabaj]

That almost sounds like you have one cylinder going offline occasionally.

I think it would be hard to determine if, and which, cylinder was going dead so if it was my bike, I'd check the spark plugs and ignition coils first.

Can you add any other observations when it stalls? Does it show CHEC in the temp window after about 5 seconds without doing anything? Any black smoke when it restarts?

I replaced the spark plugs not too long ago, maybe two months ago with iridium ones from NGK. I’m not sure about the CHEC when waiting 5 seconds. I’ll try and make it die and see if that shows up.No black smokes comes out when restarting it.

 

[rv6john]

The reason I asked about CHEC is that if the cluster does not get data from the ECM for about 5 seconds, it will show check. (you can see this happen by actuating the kill switch with the ignition on). If it did show CHEC, that would mean the ECM probably lost power and it would be an electrical issue.

Did these symptoms start after you changed the sparkplugs or did they exist before?

 

[JSabaj]

The reason I asked about CHEC is that if the cluster does not get data from the ECM for about 5 seconds, it will show check. (you can see this happen by actuating the kill switch with the ignition on). If it did show CHEC, that would mean the ECM probably lost power and it would be an electrical issue.

Did these symptoms start after you changed the sparkplugs or did they exist before?

Alright I’ll try and see if it shows a CHEC, only reason I try and turn it on right away is cause it happens at a stoplight or a turn. It existed before I changed the spark plugs. During the test ride when I bought it noting like this happened. Even the 30-45 min ride home on some busy streets nothing like this happened.

 

[rv6john]

Yes, I'm sure it stalls at times where you don't want to wait.

One other guess is that the side stand is not holding the safety switch pressed firmly. Easy check.

 

[JSabaj]

Yes, I'm sure it stalls at times where you don't want to wait.

One other guess is that the side stand is not holding the safety switch pressed firmly. Easy check.

I checked this also by lifting the bike up and slamming it to the ground in gear seeing if it’ll die. Shaking the bike around and all sorts of ideas to see if it was the kickstand. I checked the clutch switch as well and it was sticky when sliding around, I cleaned it up and it was still sticky so I replaced it. Not sure if it’s my lever because sometimes when I downshift the lever isn’t fully pressed against the clutch switch.

 

[Todd_Sails]

Have you checked your TPS setting? If you pop it into neutral when you're stopping, does it still die?

 

[JSabaj]

Have you checked your TPS setting? If you pop it into neutral when you're stopping, does it still die?

TPS in the dealer mode shows that it is correct and the bar is in the middle. The mechanic told me to check the ohms resistance and see if it has dead spots or anything like that to show it needs replaced. It seems to die right as I pull the clutch in right as I’m about to put my foot down or stop. If I try and throw it in neutral, it’ll die before I get the chance to. Should I try to coast to a stop in neutral and see if that works?

 

[JSabaj]

The reason I asked about CHEC is that if the cluster does not get data from the ECM for about 5 seconds, it will show check. (you can see this happen by actuating the kill switch with the ignition on). If it did show CHEC, that would mean the ECM probably lost power and it would be an electrical issue.

Did these symptoms start after you changed the sparkplugs or did they exist before?

I rode around for a bit today and it died once on me. I waited with cars honking 😂. But no, it did not show CHEC after 5-10 seconds. I heard it die on me, I pulled the clutch in extremely slow and when I had it disengaged it was idling for maybe 2-3 seconds at around 500. Right after it shut off.

 

[Chuckster]

That's a powercommander TPS tap in the picture. That could be a poor connection, or an issue with the powercommander itself. I'd check the throttle position calibration in the powercommander. That's almost as good as putting a meter to it.

 

[JSabaj]

That's a powercommander TPS tap in the picture. That could be a poor connection, or an issue with the powercommander itself. I'd check the throttle position calibration in the powercommander. That's almost as good as putting a meter to it.

The thing is there’s no power commander in the bike, I looked for one everywhere and traced fuel injection wires and they lead to nothing. I checked the tps kohms anyway with the little dongle, mine is reading 2.03 - 3.11 to 3/4 the way on throttle, then once full throttle it drops down to about 2.88 kohms. feeling like it needs replaced but not too sure. It’s not going to the full 4.3 like the manual says so kinda stumped if it’s bad, or just need to be calibrated more.

 

[rv6john]

@Chuckster would it be a reasonable troubleshooting idea to just disconnect the TPS and then ride the bike to see if the stalling goes away? Fail safe mode with it disconnected defaults to full throttle setting so it will probably run rich, but should run fine otherwise.

At least this would confirm or eliminate the TPS as a possible cause.

 

[Chuckster]

It would, but it's almost a shortcut to hook up to the PC and watch the throttle input %. If that all looks good, then you've not only checked the setpoints in the powercommander, but the TPS health would also be checked in the process.

 

[rv6john]

It would, but it's almost a shortcut to hook up to the PC and watch the throttle input %. If that all looks good, then you've not only checked the setpoints in the powercommander, but the TPS health would also be checked in the process.

He mentioned that a Power Commander is not installed (removed?).

 

[JSabaj]

He mentioned that a Power Commander is not installed (removed?).

Yes, there is no power commander installed in the bike, maybe he means it’s a power commander brand tap to get into the tps? The ecu has been flashed though if that helps. I’ll try running the bike today without the TPS connected and let you guys know.