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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, I am doing the pair mod for my 06 1000 since I installed the autotune bazzaz sensor in my exhaust.

Doing some research on the mod, it seems that there are many different variations of the mod to achieve the same result.

Some guys put a marble or plug into the airbox hose and cap off the airbox....and end it there.....but....why not go ahead and take the valve off altogther?

I was reading and found if I do that I need to solder in a resistor, but someone recommended 10a 10w resistor....but...apparently they dont know what they are talking about when it comes to electronics because resistors are measured in W and Ohms....not Amps. So....w/ that 10a 10w recommendation I used Ohms law to calculate what I need as far as Ohms go...and came up with this equation.

R= 10/10^2 = 10/100 = 0.1 ohm resistor in 10w power. But......they dont make a 0.1 ohm 10w resistor (at least frys didnt stock it)

A. so.....I thought about this for a minute and people are blocking off the valve altogether, so technically I can take all the hoses off....leave the Pair connected to the electronic sensor....and cap off all the outlets and inlets right?

OR


B. Cap off the smog stems, and the airbox stem....and leave the stems on the pair open (which would just suck air and blow it out into the same area) Since its just an air valve, I dont see any harm in doing that. The sensor would still be connected and the FI code would not trip.

OR

C. Cap off stem 5 (to airbox in pic), and cap off the airbox stem too....and leave the hoses from pair to smog plates as is.


The only issue I see with doing this is the pair valve is basically a small vacuum pump that sucks air from the airbox and puts into the exhaust....so blocking it and leaving it connect could burn up the motor in the pair valve itself right?
 

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The PAIR is simply a valve, it opens and closes. It is not a vacume pump. I would just put a nipple on the air box barb. And keep the nipples like you have on the plates on the motor (or buy block off plates). Get rid of all the hoses. Then either figure out what resistor you need, and get rid of the PAIR valve. Or just leave the valve in there, and maybe put some nipples on it if you want to keep dust/water out of it.

Im not sure your Ohm calculations are correct. .1 Ohms is practicly nothing. .1 ohms would not create a 10w draw. Im not positive but I beleive the PAIR on your bike is electricly actuated. So that is not wiring for a sensor, but wiring for the actuator. The old bikes were vacume opperated and there was no wiring to the PAIR valve. Just a hose to one of the throttle bodies (and the main hose to the air box like yours).

Just for example. I just got an integrated LED tail light for my bike. It came with 3ohm 5w resistors (for the blinkers, to keep stock blink speed). So I dont know how you could get 10w out of .1 ohms. And you probably know, but a 10a draw is much larger then a 10w draw. 10w is only .833 amps, at 12v. 10a at 12v would be 120w.

If you have a meter. Just check the ohms on the PAIR valve, then youll know what resistor to get.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The PAIR is simply a valve, it opens and closes. It is not a vacume pump. I would just put a nipple on the air box barb. And keep the nipples like you have on the plates on the motor (or buy block off plates). Get rid of all the hoses. Then either figure out what resistor you need, and get rid of the PAIR valve. Or just leave the valve in there, and maybe put some nipples on it if you want to keep dust/water out of it.

Im not sure your Ohm calculations are correct. .1 Ohms is practicly nothing. .1 ohms would not create a 10w draw. Im not positive but I beleive the PAIR on your bike is electricly actuated. So that is not wiring for a sensor, but wiring for the actuator. The old bikes were vacume opperated and there was no wiring to the PAIR valve. Just a hose to one of the throttle bodies (and the main hose to the air box like yours).

Just for example. I just got an integrated LED tail light for my bike. It came with 3ohm 5w resistors (for the blinkers, to keep stock blink speed). So I dont know how you could get 10w out of .1 ohms. And you probably know, but a 10a draw is much larger then a 10w draw. 10w is only .833 amps, at 12v. 10a at 12v would be 120w.

If you have a meter. Just check the ohms on the PAIR valve, then youll know what resistor to get.
thanks for the reply. I think my calculation is wrong too, and I just read 10a 10w resistor to use for the plug on the pair. Ive read that unpluging it and leaving it uplugged will give an FI code. I ended up just leaving the hoses connected to the smog plates, and capping the input hose on the pair valve and the airbox outlet that leads to the pair valve. As for now...I will just leave it that way, but I figured if Im disabling the pair...why not just remove the whole thing and cap the smog plates.

:)
 

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when I was tuning my K7 750 with the Z-AFM i just caped the nipple in the air box and I havnt had any problems with an FI code. Id save yourself the time of taking off your tank and a little money and just cap the nipple in the airbox. There isnt really anything to be gained by removing the entire pair system from your bike but maybe 3lbs, performance wise its so minimal you wouldnt notice it on that moster your riding
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
the pair system doesnt weight 3 lbs, i read that somewhere too, but thats an exaggeration. I bet it hardly weighs 1 lb.

As for my reasoning of why I want to remove the whole pair valve...well....I just like to do clean work on my bike....and not halfass things. If sticking a marble in the hose is done to save time and trouble from taking the airbox off.....thats no excuse to halfass something.....take the airbox off and remove the hose and at least put a vacuum cap on it.

that is what I did for now, but if I can remove the entire thing and not get an FI light from being unplugged, I will.....regardless of what others have done....thats just me.

tela....we are way passed that simple fact....but thanks for the input!
 

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Havnt herd of the marble bit but I did the same thing I just put a cap on mine in the airbox. I didnt want to take the entire thing out and then have my FI light goin nuts cus of it.
 

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the pair system doesnt weight 3 lbs, i read that somewhere too, but thats an exaggeration. I bet it hardly weighs 1 lb.

As for my reasoning of why I want to remove the whole pair valve...well....I just like to do clean work on my bike....and not halfass things. If sticking a marble in the hose is done to save time and trouble from taking the airbox off.....thats no excuse to halfass something.....take the airbox off and remove the hose and at least put a vacuum cap on it.

that is what I did for now, but if I can remove the entire thing and not get an FI light from being unplugged, I will.....regardless of what others have done....thats just me.

tela....we are way passed that simple fact....but thanks for the input!
Im with you. If your gona do it, do it right. Even if you dont install a resistor to completely remove the PAIR valve, I would still atleast get rid of all the hoses. Put nipples on the plates and one on the air box. Maybe put nipples on the PAIR valve just to keep junk out incase you ever reuse it.

I would put an Ohm meter on the PAIR valve thou. That should tell you what Ohm resistor you need to install so you can completely remove the PAIR.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Im with you. If your gona do it, do it right. Even if you dont install a resistor to completely remove the PAIR valve, I would still atleast get rid of all the hoses. Put nipples on the plates and one on the air box. Maybe put nipples on the PAIR valve just to keep junk out incase you ever reuse it.

I would put an Ohm meter on the PAIR valve thou. That should tell you what Ohm resistor you need to install so you can completely remove the PAIR.
i agree with you there. I will probably get around to doing that. For now, I didnt have enough vacuum caps to cap off the pair and the smog plates, so I just did the airbox and inlet to the pair, and left the hoses connected to the smog plates. I will probably either get more vacuum caps, or as you suggested find out what ohm resistor I need and remove the whole pair, and solder in the resistor with some heat shrink tubing.

:)
 

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Rip that pair valve off.. its a good 2 lbs. Just plug in any old resistor with any sort of resistance and it wont trip the FI light.
 

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The PAIR system does not weigh three pounds, and there is no air pump at all. It weighs 2-3 ounces at the most. All it is, is an air line and a valve that runs from the airbox to the head, which injects excess air that is present in the airbox during deceleration in to the exhaust stream for more complete combustion (which is the cause of popping during deceleration.) Disabling it will remove the annoying popping sound if you get it, but it has no effect on performance whatsoever.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Rip that pair valve off.. its a good 2 lbs. Just plug in any old resistor with any sort of resistance and it wont trip the FI light.
what resistor do you recommend? It has to be spliced and soldered in...I dont think there is a plug in resistor that will work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The PAIR system does not weigh three pounds, and there is no air pump at all. It weighs 2-3 ounces at the most. All it is, is an air line and a valve that runs from the airbox to the head, which injects excess air that is present in the airbox during deceleration in to the exhaust stream for more complete combustion (which is the cause of popping during deceleration.) Disabling it will remove the annoying popping sound if you get it, but it has no effect on performance whatsoever.
ya, the pair weighs practically nothing. I think what people mean when they say lbs is...the smog plates, hoses and clamps, and the pair valve itself....and that thing still doesnt even weigh a pound....I dunno where people get 3 lbs from.

Also, would the purpose of blocking the pair for a dyno tune be to adjust the air/fuel ratio upon deceleration? Or is it recommended to block for accelleration purposes too during a dyno tune?
 

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ya, the pair weighs practically nothing. I think what people mean when they say lbs is...the smog plates, hoses and clamps, and the pair valve itself....and that thing still doesnt even weigh a pound....I dunno where people get 3 lbs from.

Also, would the purpose of blocking the pair for a dyno tune be to adjust the air/fuel ratio upon deceleration? Or is it recommended to block for accelleration purposes too during a dyno tune?
If the tuner uses an oxygen sensing system in the pipe to aid in tuning, then yes, the PAIR system would mess up the tuning process in deceleration. This would also be the case in newer bikes that are equipped with oxygen sensors, although presumably the ECU knows when the PAIR system is active and would disregard the signal.
 

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what resistor do you recommend? It has to be spliced and soldered in...I dont think there is a plug in resistor that will work.
I think I have a 200 in mine... dont quote me, but theyre like 10 cents so :) ..... I just bent it so that it fits in like a plug. Hasnt come out or caused any problems for me since I put it in 2 years ago.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
Thanks woodshoe. I will go do that. Right now I just took my airbox off again and unplugged all the hoses and capped em off.

I will probably go get that resistor. What exactly is it? A 200 ohm, what watt resistor?
 
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