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Any advice on using full synthetic motor oil (type, weight, brand, etc.). GSXR with 18,000 miles, would it hurt to change to synthetic? Also, I'm getting ready to install a new clutch kit (plates, springs), would the synthetic oil cause any slippage?
 

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Thats all I use. I use mobile 1 full syn. 10-40.
 

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Is it true that once you switch a bike to synthetic you shouldn't go back to regular?
I bought my 00 750 a couple months ago and I'm about to start riding it in a few weeks, and the guy I bought it from always used some synth blend oil, partially synthetic and he said it would be bad for the engine if I put regular oil in there. The stuff is like 8.50 a quart to.
 

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Hey fellas,

i know this is probably been asked before, but can you use car mobil 1 synthetic oil? Or does the motorcycle oil come with additives that help with the transmisson. Is there any advantage of using motorcycle versus regular car oil. Thanks for the help

brian
 

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Well first off, when you state a synthetic which group of oil are you refering too? A group 3 can be called a synthetic but Amsoil, redline etc are all group 4 (polyalphaolefin or PAO) and 5 (ester)..the best out there.

From what I have known, Mobil oils can be from a 1 to 4 and their ZDDP can be very low along with low TBN's.

You can switch backand forth and not have an issue.

#3 the only had advantage to use a bike oil (JASO MA) is that it will have more Zn and P in it;which you want.

In the past some bikes had clutch slip when using car oils.

Silkolene is a group 4 (20%+ Diesters and balance in PAO). At $10 per qt, they can keep it! Overprice group 4 in my book.
 

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catchthis44 said:
Once you run synthetic oil you should never change back....i know the price is a killer

MYTH......... as long as you do a FULL oil change, you can put waht you want when you want.

As far as Car oils, they can have ill effects on some bikes starter clutches (rollertype) as well as some older bikes clutches.

use motorcycle oil only. Several reasons. One our trannies are integrated, which increases breakdown of oil. Two, our clutches are wet, and three, you can have phosphosous in bikes as they dont have catalytic converters, and phosphorous is good to have in oil.
 

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hmm, ok, thanks for all the info.
I actually just read a big article in consumer reports that concluded that there is NO difference between synthetic and all the others, permormance wise and other wise. I'm not quite sure though.
I'm thinking that I'm just going to go with the regular motorcycle oil, 10-40, the cheapest stuff at the bike shop is still like 3-4 bucks a quart.
The guy before me was using yamalube semi-synthetic or something like that, has anyone heard anything good or bad about it? It's like 8.50 a quart
 

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yama lube is good oil.

But there is a deffinate difference in oils... just not nescessarily synthetic VS petrolium.

Cycle world did a huge independant study, and the best were

Motul 5000 synthesis (I use the 1500 semi)
maxima maxim ultima 4
and mobil 1 for bikes I think.........

Not in order.
 

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There is a difference and if you oil test (which I do) there is a huge difference.

As motojoe noted some test and came up with the names of oils; however, the problem is price vs benefit after doing homework and doing oil tests since 1994;

Motul 5000 synthesis ($13 per liter)-poor shear though and low flash point after looking at oil analysis for a ester based oils.
maxima oil ($10 a liter) viscosity and flash are low for the price you pay. Zn and P are high but I do not know any other details. (TBN, Ca etc)
mobil 1 for bikes (So far Mobil is not up to par even there PAO based oils). Last report I saw with 5500 miles on oil was that the TBN was below 9 (8.5) , Zn below 1000 ppm, Ca was around 2000ppm

Also yamalube is made by Citgo. At $8 for a Blend, another “out of there minds”. What I would look for is some oil analysis and look to see what area mean a lot to you. Then see the price.

here is a internal pix on my gsxr1100 (1994) with oil 12 oil changes and 15K miles.

http://home.comcast.net/~mburnickas/Bike/gear_bike.JPG
 

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i use golden spectre 10w 40 non synthetic and it works great. i use that cause its free for me at my shop. the only thing about synthetic is to use a synthetic blend so if you have to top off the oil in a pinch you can use regular oil.
 

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not a good idea.......... sorry. but I guess if for SOME REASON you dont do regular preventative checks on your bike, and you get out on the road and realize the oil is low.... any oil is better than none
 

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Motojoe_23 said:
MYTH......... as long as you do a FULL oil change, you can put waht you want when you want.
Do you have proof, or an explination about this? Cuz I've read information from an oil company that said once you go to full synthetic you shouldn't go back, and I've heard that it didn't matter, I just never knew which to believe.
 

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In the past, yes since the additive packages sometimes did not agree. That is old school. You can go back and forth till the cows come home.

Even my car Lexus states you can do this. My bike is the same way.
 

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I have been using synthetic oil for 12+ years and have done a lot of research on it. First, think of how the oil interacts with the bike. It forms an oil film in bearings for the most part. Why will you engine care if you switch between synthetic and dino oil? It doesn't. It doesn't care if you mix synthetic and dino either. People put this big mystery into synthetic oil like it is made with voodoo magic or something.

It is regular oil that has the imputities taken out of it or it is made from a more pure base. That's it. Is it better? Yes. The impurities tend to lower the temperatures the oil is able to run at and lower the shear force it can handle. It will also not break down as fast or leave as many deposits in the engine. It also is more slippery and flows better (lowers oil pressure a tad, which is less pumping losses on the engine, but not much).

I use synthetic in anything that I care about. Make sure the engine is fully broken in before you switch over. I switch at about 2,500 miles on a bike and 7k on a car. I run turbo'd cars and that is where the difference really shines, with the extra heat of the turbo.
 

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I would and do switch from day 1. It does not do anything but your rings take longer to seat and you have a higher Noack Volatility for a few miles. Who cares, less wear!
 

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mburnickas said:
I would and do switch from day 1. It does not do anything but your rings take longer to seat and you have a higher Noack Volatility for a few miles. Who cares, less wear!
rings seating is a HUGE deal, but peopel over estimate the "break in period" time frame, yiourrings are worn in in about 500 miles or less.

When I buy a new bike, I drain the oil first thing, and flush it out. there are a TON of metal particles left in an engine when it is made.

I then run it on regular oil......... for 500 miles, then switch to synth or synth blends.
 

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Motojoe_23 said:
rings seating is a HUGE deal, but peopel over estimate the "break in period" time frame, yiourrings are worn in in about 500 miles or less.

When I buy a new bike, I drain the oil first thing, and flush it out. there are a TON of metal particles left in an engine when it is made.

I then run it on regular oil......... for 500 miles, then switch to synth or synth blends.

rings seating is a HUGE deal, but peopel over estimate the "break in period" time frame, yiourrings are worn in in about 500 miles or less.
I have no waited to break in any bike, car, or diesel I own. Never had a problem. The most you will have is a slight increase in fuel % (maybe), decrease in viscosity (thinning) and maybe , maybe a lower TBN

When I buy a new bike, I drain the oil first thing, and flush it out. there are a TON of metal particles left in an engine when it is made.

I then run it on regular oil......... for 500 miles, then switch to synth or synth blends. .
Whatever works, I never had had an issue in over 10 years of doing this and the oil tests look pretty darn good.
 
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