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Howdy! Been loving my Gsxr 600 so much I need a new chain and sprockets. I wanted a little more torque and wanted to know what u guys run chain and sprockets wise. I have a K6 2007 GSXR 600. Thanks!
What sprocket size should I run for a little more low down torque.
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Welcome to the forum.
The most common change is -1 tooth on the front and +2 on the back. (corrected + and -) You can still run the same chain length and no clearance issues.
It seems to give that little extra down low.
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I'll caution against aluminum sprockets for street use, especially if you go with a 520 chain. They wear very quickly.
A SuperSprox is a good way to go since it is aluminum hub but steel teeth. I really don't think the front sprocket weight will make any measurable difference.
A SuperSprox is a good way to go since it is aluminum hub but steel teeth. I really don't think the front sprocket weight will make any measurable difference.
I think you mean -1 front, and +2 rear.
I think that's 15/43
Stock should be 16/41
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Yes, aluminum rear sprockets will wear faster... price you pay for the lightest combination. If you've ever held an aluminum sprocket in you hand and a oem steel one, the different is pretty dramatic. I think the usual thought is steel lasts 3x longer than aluminum. But with the right maintenance you can get a hardened aluminum rear to last 10K+ miles. For some people that's not enough. for others that's plenty.
maintaining proper chain slack will play a big roll in longevity as well as hp, riding style and the riding environment. Gritty loose dirt and sand that gets into the chain will grind away an aluminum sprocket in short order.
Remember if you do decide to go with a 520 conversion (highly recommended in steel or aluminum), all 3 components- front and rear sprocket and chain must be 520. No mixing and matching between oem and 520. Weight savings can be significant, around 1-2 pounds of unsprung rotating mass.
Sorry, this was not an answer to your question, but since you were looking for new sprockets already, I thought I might just add that conversion option as well.
maintaining proper chain slack will play a big roll in longevity as well as hp, riding style and the riding environment. Gritty loose dirt and sand that gets into the chain will grind away an aluminum sprocket in short order.
Remember if you do decide to go with a 520 conversion (highly recommended in steel or aluminum), all 3 components- front and rear sprocket and chain must be 520. No mixing and matching between oem and 520. Weight savings can be significant, around 1-2 pounds of unsprung rotating mass.
Sorry, this was not an answer to your question, but since you were looking for new sprockets already, I thought I might just add that conversion option as well.
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Oh crap, you're right. Screwed it up and I'll fix my post. Thanks for catching that.
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I have poor attention to detail sometimes. When I first read your post I read it as -1 +2 without even noticing the typo because my brain just knows smaller front & larger rear equals more torque/acceleration and less top-end. Kudos to @JCW
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If you do a lot of fwy riding this will make your bike rev a whole bunch more.
1 tooth on front is about 10 mph loss on top. its Good from stop light to stop light .
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And I'd like to add, your speedometer reading- that is already off from the factory a bit, will be off even more LOL.
On my street LiterBike, I got one of those Speed Drd (something like that) that goes to the wires to the speed sensor and you program a correction factor in. Now my speedo is withing 1 mph at virtually any speeds.
That bike has a taller rear tire went from /50 to a /55, and I went with a 520 conversion, -1, +1 rear sprocket.
The tire change and the sprocket change put the speedo back to where it was with the /50 tire.
How much more torque you looking for? That nice inline 4 600 you have will never really have the torque of say and RSV4 Aprilia, etc.
It will and does help though.
As said, by far the most common 'mod' is a -1 front, +2 rear.
On my street LiterBike, I got one of those Speed Drd (something like that) that goes to the wires to the speed sensor and you program a correction factor in. Now my speedo is withing 1 mph at virtually any speeds.
That bike has a taller rear tire went from /50 to a /55, and I went with a 520 conversion, -1, +1 rear sprocket.
The tire change and the sprocket change put the speedo back to where it was with the /50 tire.
How much more torque you looking for? That nice inline 4 600 you have will never really have the torque of say and RSV4 Aprilia, etc.
It will and does help though.
As said, by far the most common 'mod' is a -1 front, +2 rear.
Not me... it was matt
I added the useless 520 aluminum sprocket conversion suggestion.
Can I offer this alternative thought.
Of course you can get more acceleration from a standstill in 1st gear by picking a different gear selection, but only to a point because you end up just pulling bigger wheelies which reduces accel.
If you are finding that, for example, roll-on 2nd gear accels are a bit tame, by making the ratio taller you can stay in 1st longer, or 3rd/2nd, etc.
I've set my gearing taller and I get a great sense of torque in the lower gears now because they seem better matched now to urban speeds. So I might still be in 2nd gear when stock gearing I might be in 3rd at a lower speed and lesser accel.
It's complicated and when you start swapping the cogs around you realise that actually the stock choice of gearing is pretty well a good 'fits-all' choice.
I agree.
Speedo is already off by about 8%, which is pretty horrendous...
I kept the stock hearing on my '07 gsxr600.
I sold a '17 tuono rr, and replaced it with a 600. If I wanted arm ripping torque, I would have kept the Aprilia.
Too short gearing makes it nearly un-rideable. Its like having a stump pulling first gear, and 6th becomes the new 5th.
A 600 needs to be revved, and its finest point is handling. Want more power? Buy a gsxr750, or go all in and buy a 1000... but there's only so much power you can make use of on the street. For street, torque is king, and loads of fun pulling out of corners.
My .02c
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I have a Renthal aluminium sprocket and after 2k miles seems to still be 'like new'. I have no fears of premature wear.
It happened to be going cheap on ebay, so, why not?
I think one thing to be particularly careful of is lateral alignment. If it is running slightly sideways then of course it'll wear very quickly. I took a long time getting the wheel alignment (because it is angle as well as lateral displacement), and that reminds me I should go check that again because of course the rear axle can move slightly when in use over time.
I used a laser level to get it just so. Not sure where it's gone actually, have to find it before I check with it.
The main test was to just rotate it and see how the chain lies. It wobbled very gently from one side of the sprocket to the other as it rotated, so that's ideal. If it is sitting always on one side then it'll be rubbing over time. Be nice if it was perfectly central all the time and the inside of the chain link never touches the side of the sprocket, but that's impossible and doesn't happen, except in an engineer's daydream!
I'm fully content with mine and am seeing nothing bad from it. I don't think it really adds anything to how quick it feels or accelerates. Just thought I'd try one as it was going cheap as new-old stock.
It happened to be going cheap on ebay, so, why not?
I think one thing to be particularly careful of is lateral alignment. If it is running slightly sideways then of course it'll wear very quickly. I took a long time getting the wheel alignment (because it is angle as well as lateral displacement), and that reminds me I should go check that again because of course the rear axle can move slightly when in use over time.
I used a laser level to get it just so. Not sure where it's gone actually, have to find it before I check with it.
The main test was to just rotate it and see how the chain lies. It wobbled very gently from one side of the sprocket to the other as it rotated, so that's ideal. If it is sitting always on one side then it'll be rubbing over time. Be nice if it was perfectly central all the time and the inside of the chain link never touches the side of the sprocket, but that's impossible and doesn't happen, except in an engineer's daydream!
I'm fully content with mine and am seeing nothing bad from it. I don't think it really adds anything to how quick it feels or accelerates. Just thought I'd try one as it was going cheap as new-old stock.
+1
Those swingarm marks arent always perfectly accurate. When matched side to side on mine, you can see the sprocket walk from one side of the chain to the other when looking from the rear and rotating the tire.
Those swingarm marks arent always perfectly accurate. When matched side to side on mine, you can see the sprocket walk from one side of the chain to the other when looking from the rear and rotating the tire.
I have a Renthal aluminium sprocket and after 2k miles seems to still be 'like new'. I have no fears of premature wear.
It happened to be going cheap on ebay, so, why not?
I think one thing to be particularly careful of is lateral alignment. If it is running slightly sideways then of course it'll wear very quickly. I took a long time getting the wheel alignment (because it is angle as well as lateral displacement), and that reminds me I should go check that again because of course the rear axle can move slightly when in use over time.
I used a laser level to get it just so. Not sure where it's gone actually, have to find it before I check with it.
The main test was to just rotate it and see how the chain lies. It wobbled very gently from one side of the sprocket to the other as it rotated, so that's ideal. If it is sitting always on one side then it'll be rubbing over time. Be nice if it was perfectly central all the time and the inside of the chain link never touches the side of the sprocket, but that's impossible and doesn't happen, except in an engineer's daydream!
I'm fully content with mine and am seeing nothing bad from it. I don't think it really adds anything to how quick it feels or accelerates. Just thought I'd try one as it was going cheap as new-old stock.
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