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Discussion Starter #22 (Edited)
Part 2: Cleaning and back flushing the pump assembly itself.

9. Next remove the lines from the side of the pump.



10. Now split the pump assembly apart to flush out the internals. Mine was NASTY inside, brown rusty gas came out of it! Hold the top of the pump like this:


Grab a hold of the tip with pliers as shown and pull it straight out, it will take some force so be ready when it pops loose. Make sure the wires won't get caught on anything when it yanks free. (again its an o-ring holding it in there)


11. Warning: I used a shopvac to backflush the components with gas, probably not the best idea but hey it worked. If you have a transfer pump it would be a better idea to use that. But take a clear hose (so you can see what's coming out) and stick it into the hole when the fuel pump normally goes in. Stick the pump down in the gas so the outlet is immersed. Hold your finger over the hole for the pressure relief valve or it will just suck air through there.

You are basically running gas through the opposite was it normally goes, so anything that is caught in there gets blown out. Turn the vac or pump on and keep pulling the gas through until it comes clear. Turn it off and on, shake the pump base around to get all the crap out. I had a some nasty looking stuff come out.

My setup:


12. Repeat this process but stick the hose in the hole for the pressure relief valve and plug the pump one. I ran about three gallons through the pump total.

13. I tried to reverse the polarity of the pump itself and run it backwards, but there must be a one-way valve in there because it won't pump gas backwards, so I just ran about a half gallon of gas through it normally.

14. Clean the relief valve and pray it works, because you can't order just the valve. It's grouped with the assembly which is $290.

15. While you're at it, you should clean the tank with kreem A & B or an equivalent product. The tank probably has some nasty stuff in there if the pump filter was dirty.

15. Put it back together and go ride!
 

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Discussion Starter #23 (Edited)
Matt750GSXR: what year is your bike? your assembly looks significantly different from the K5-K6 1000s . Where's the secondary filter in that assembly? and the pressure relief valve?
You gotta find them and backflush....specially if your primary filter was that bad of shape. Nice write-up
Thanks for posting this, I saw it yesterday and decided to pull it back apart and break the assembly apart.

I'm just going to order a new valve, the thing was so nasty looking even if it gets clean I wouldn't trust it to work properly. edit: can't buy just the valve... I guess I'll try to clean it and pressure test it to 41 psi.
 

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Ill help ya out man, give me a few so I can get on my lap top.
 

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Have you noticed a difference in performance?
 

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Stupid motorcycle app!!! ^ I wrote that all in capitals incase he couldn't hear me for the 3rd time of asking a question!!
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Stupid motorcycle app!!! ^ I wrote that all in capitals incase he couldn't hear me for the 3rd time of asking a question!!
Sorry lol, i haven't rode it yet the tank was so bad its going through round 2 of being cleaned and treated. Ill keep the thread updated
 

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Thanks!

Can a mod combine the two posts and make it easy to find for people?

Your wish has been granted sir. Your thread has been moved to the tech FAQ/write ups section and stuck to the top. Your write up is well done. Your request to merge the two posts isnt possible because of the amount of pics, but Im working on something for ya (I like to challenge my self)


Sure every pump and filter may not look exactly the same ppl but the concept is the same and you can figure it out from here.
 

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I just want to add to this thread so it can help others who may find it.

This is my way to test for flow & pressure. I made it from pipe & hydraulic fittings from the hardware store. I did not take alot of pics. Maybe I could if there's interest & time.



I also back flow my main filter with carb cleaner & fuel. I stuck a 3/8" vinyl hose into the outlet then stuck the nozzle for my compressor in there & turn the pressure to 90 psi. Lots of black crud came out. I have ran it for 3,000 kms & the filter is still going strong.

I will add photos below if I can find them.
 

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My pre filter.
uploadfromtaptalk1581164382015.jpg
/ATTA

I plug a 3/8 hose down this opening to back flush it.
uploadfromtaptalk1581164622471.jpg


My service manual said do not remove the pressure regulator. If you do make sure it is properly attached. Here you can see my regulator has slipped & it left me stranded. I have it strapped with wires.
 

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There's also a fuel filter bypass mod for the vstrom. Which is identical for my 04 gsxr. The reason I didn't go with it is, you'd be pushing fuel at 43 psi while at oem it pushes whatever pressure the pump can put out. At oem the filter is before the regulator. If you put it after the results will be different.


This is what I had planned before I abandoned it.
uploadfromtaptalk1581165524908.jpg
uploadfromtaptalk1581165545894.jpg


I hope this helps someone.
 

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Thanks @RockerGuy for the pics. What did you use to back flush the fine/high pressure filter?

The use of a shop vac that the OP mentioned in post #22 / 11 is a really bad idea. We are talking explosion, major burns and ambulance rides.
 

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I mentioned an air compressor & a vinyl hose.
Sorry, did not catch that part.

I would be really nervous about putting air to the filter. It is just a pleated paper filter inside and I'm guessing a hole can be blown in it pretty easily.
 

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Sorry, did not catch that part.

I would be really nervous about putting air to the filter. It is just a pleated paper filter inside and I'm guessing a hole can be blown in it pretty easily.
I thought about that. It's a high pressure filter. Plus I saw the vstrom owners dissected a filter which looks pretty robust.

I really didn't feel like spending $600 on a filter unit.
 

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I am similarly concerned about the pressure differential from compressed air causing the filter pleats to collapse on each other. But what do I know? As I've mentioned before, the final filter on injected systems is normally rated around 10 microns, which is .0004". So it's picking up some very fine particles.

It occurs to me that another possibility is to fill the filter with a rust dissolving liquid like Whink and let it sit overnight. Whink is water based but I think you could get rid of it by draining, then flush with isopropyl alchol, then blow the IPA out with compressed air, then flush with gasoline. I have no idea if this will work or end up thoroughly gumming things up.

Holley makes a 162-550 inline filter that's rated 10 microns and 100 gallons/hr. That rate is significantly higher than our pumps flow (it's intended for 400 HP cars). The 162-556 filter element is available separately for less than $15. I'd like to see someone make an adapter that would replace the Mitsubishi filter and use that replaceable element. I'd think that $100 would be a very reasonable price for it.
 

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The more clogged a filter becomes the more efficient it is. I'm not going to worry too much on what gets passed through. I still have to clean my injectors soon.

The external filter I bought is for a Ducati & Triumph. I don't know why Suzuki didn't put the filter external so it is easily maintained.

I'd see how my methods are working then I will do a filter bypass. I'd keep this thread posted.
 
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