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Timing

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16K views 27 replies 6 participants last post by  MadisonMotorsportUK  
Have you checked the spark plug wires yet? Mine had some corrosion inside the plug boot that had to be cleaned out. It was enough to cause a wandering misfire that couldn’t be pinned down to any one cylinder. Once the corrosion was cleaned out it has run fine ever since.
 
I took a screwdriver and scraped off the corrosion inside the plug boots…it was greenish powder up in there.

Then a piece of sand paper folded over the tip of the screwdriver, which I just twisted back and forth with the screwdriver.

After that I sprayed some contact cleaner in each boot and then some silicone anti-corrosion spray once the contact cleaner dried up.
 
That looks like it was immersed in rusty water for a period of time. Other than that, the contacts at the top are relatively clean.

Just spray some contact cleaner in there and wait until it dries, then spray some silicone corrosion protectant in there.

Should be fine after that. Doesn’t look like the source of your problems either though.
 
So it starts and as soon as it starts it shuts down, but it doesn’t show a code? Or does it run and it shuts down as soon as a gear is selected?
 
Oh. Disconnect the power commander from the circuit then and see if it starts and runs. If so, the circuit in the PC might be fried. Or, it may have a faulty connection some where.
 
Couldn’t tell you in all honesty. I have zero experience with PCs. Never sought to use one to solve an issue, never installed one and have never personally used one.

I just know if the install was a hack job (it sounds as though yours was) the probability is high that the PC module was damaged internally at some point.

Going back to stock OEM configuration by eliminating the PC will at least get you in the ball park where a manual will help you sort out any problems not rooted in the Power Commander install.

Anything that was not on the bike from the factory should immediately be suspect in the event the bike does not run as it should. Once you eliminate anything aftermarket, you can concentrate on the factory wiring to diagnose any issues.

Once you have it running as it should, then you can revisit the PC and see if is still a viable option. I’d have it checked over professionally before hooking it back up…and have it professionally installed would be even better. Last thing you need is another hack job.
 
If it isn’t throwing a code, that would be EXACTLY why I’d blame the PC. It is separate from the bike’s ECM and would not generate a code.

Also, any internal circuit damage would be invisible to a visual inspection. If you remove it, and the bike runs normally then you can either leave it off or take the PC to a specialist to determine where the problem is within it.
 
If it were me, I’d try to find a used harness section that’s intact to replace the hacked up mess.

I was a mechanic for over 20 years. By that I mean, that was my job and how I made a living. Bikes were always my hobby but I learned that all of the same lessons applied.

If someone else had already been into an area with problems, it is likely they simply created more of them. I’ve found this to be more true with used bikes than previous owners would like to admit.