Alrighty. before I go into detail here, im working with a 2007 gsxr600. has about 16000 miles. My problem here has started off last year by a lopey idle, well actually it was like that when I bought the bike, and I went out on a lim too because what I read on line was that that these bikes (sometimes just have lopey idles) well, my idle is a little more cammed out sounding. so anyhow, recently when my bike is cold, only sometimes, more frequently now than it was before, but still sometimes when I start it, it will idle at like 1200rpm, then the idle drops as it should, (obviously to like 900-800 rpms, when it normally drops to like 1400rpm) but with my lopey idle problem it kills the bike. so I start it again and it will only start if I feed it the throttle, once I have the bike running, it runs rich and the odor of gas lingers and the nice white smoke comes about.. I can void this problem by either waiting until the bike is warm, then my lopey idle problem goes away, and the bike runs perfect. OR I can wait until it reaches about 100 degrees then shut the bike off and start it back up and if I get lucky, it will start back up and run perfect. so I was thinking here, well maybe its a sensor? O2 sensor maybe? but I questioned myself why it isn't throwing a code for the sensor or any codes at all? has anyone ever had problems with any sensors where they did NOT throw an emissions code to let them know it is faulty? it would be more of like a hit or miss thing with changing all of these parts around that cant be tested; now some are gonna say, did you change your plugs? Yes. clean gas? yes. air filter? yes. Some will say its my valves, but I doubt it because, if it WERE to be my valves, it would be more of a constant thing rather than when its just cold. I did all of the "first check" things. but maybe by some chance I over looked something,... but I doubt it. could this be a symptom of a faulty stator? or what sensors could be doing wrong here? This is just my first fuel injected vehicle. im used to carburation, not that this really makes a difference about knowing things or not, because an engine still needs the same things to function properly.. I just would like to train my brain and learn more of why my bike is being a piece of sh*t :lick::Laughing: Thanks guys.. big help!!!
Icytea132
Mine does the same thing. AFAIK it's because the secondary throttle bodies were removed, the air box changed a bit, and the full exhaust system that deletes the cat. Mine is lopey until I let the clutch out in gear, then it smooths right out. I am planning on checking my plugs this weekend. I've got something rattling around on the top end anyway.
I mean, you can clean out the IAP sensor and see if that helps. Just spray in some electronic cleaner. But I figure it's fine. At least, I'm hoping it's fine. :lol:
I mean, you can clean out the IAP sensor and see if that helps. Just spray in some electronic cleaner. But I figure it's fine. At least, I'm hoping it's fine. :lol:
I have had a similar problem with my K6 750. Sometimes, if the temperature is below 50 degrees, the bike will start rough and stumble. The first time it happened, the plugs fouled enough to cause running problems. New plugs fixed that immediate problem. I now make sure I monitor the first couple of minutes after start and rev the engine a little if I hear it bogging. After a minute or so, it idles perfectly as normal. This happens only sporadically.
After a lot of research over the years, I have chalked it up to Suzuki having a glitch in the cold start map. This is just my guess, I never did find a definitive answer.
BTW: It could still be your valves. The clearances get tighter with use as the valve recesses into the seat. The clearances change again as the engine warms up and the aluminum head expands. They could be slightly off the seat when cold.
If you have not checked the valve clearances yet, they are due since you have 16k on the bike (I believe Suzuki recommends 14.5k miles)
After a lot of research over the years, I have chalked it up to Suzuki having a glitch in the cold start map. This is just my guess, I never did find a definitive answer.
BTW: It could still be your valves. The clearances get tighter with use as the valve recesses into the seat. The clearances change again as the engine warms up and the aluminum head expands. They could be slightly off the seat when cold.
If you have not checked the valve clearances yet, they are due since you have 16k on the bike (I believe Suzuki recommends 14.5k miles)
Adjust your idle.
Normally when you start, it'll fast idle at around 2000 rpm for 14 second or more depending your outside ambient temp. After of which, idle drops to 1300 rpm.
Those are your stock idle values. Your idle screw is on the left side of the bike. Can be reach with a flat head screw driver without removing fairing.
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Normally when you start, it'll fast idle at around 2000 rpm for 14 second or more depending your outside ambient temp. After of which, idle drops to 1300 rpm.
Those are your stock idle values. Your idle screw is on the left side of the bike. Can be reach with a flat head screw driver without removing fairing.
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This is your idle screw looking at it from the top with the gas tank propped up or removed. I'd propped it up if you want space to work with. No need to remove tank.
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Im with him....first things first is have your idle set properly. What you consider normal is too low.
I have and Im sure you do too, two screws. One for the high idle (cold idle) and one normal idle. Get that squared away first since its easy. With no codes, Id be surprised if it was more then that.
I have and Im sure you do too, two screws. One for the high idle (cold idle) and one normal idle. Get that squared away first since its easy. With no codes, Id be surprised if it was more then that.
I agree with these 2 about the idle. Normal idle is 1,300 RPM. Maybe it will cure the issue but I kind of get the feeling that it may not do much. Still worth a shot tho.
When I read this .. I figures idle issue by the way you state it. Start at 1200 rpm, drops to 900-800 rpm.
If your idle is fine ( start idle at 2000, drops to 1300 ), with your info already given, check plugs. 16k mi with what seems to be plugs that were not changed. Recommended at every 7500 mi I think. Which means you should be on your third set of plugs by now.
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I had the same EXACT problem. Found one of the rubber boots for the plug coil to be improperly installed and bent out of shape causing a bad connection to the plug. Once properly seated the problem hasn't come back.
I turned the high idle screw and nothing happened, the rpm did not raise or lower.. I'm having low idle on cold starts trying to adjust for high idle on cold starts..
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