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Clutch Button Bypass - Must read if you spliced the wires!!!

10K views 7 replies 4 participants last post by  Todd_Sails  
#1 · (Edited)
For the SUZUKI GSX-R line up the clutch button is manditory there is no way arounf it. If you decide to splice the wires of the clutch button you have lost 10-15 horsepower. Your bike is now running in a neutral map at 80% of the capacity it could. There is debate if this is true but I garentee you it is and was confirmed to me by Chris Opie Caylor who was a profesional racer that also woked on my bike.

Some like me are running a perch that doesnt allow for the traditional clutch butto to be installed. So we will be mapping it to the [Pass Button] on the left contoller.
Image

Circled in White are the clutch button wires, circled in red is the pass button we will be mapping to. Remove the screw the blue arrow is pointing to and removed the wires that will be replaced. Then romve the black screw holding the button. I suggest sodering new wired to the button and the routing the wire the the contoller and connecting to the cluthc buttons. This ensures you have the legnth needed (measure tice cut once and all that)
We are mapping the yhite and yellow wire from the pass button to the black and white button. Although I don't believe it matters. Once done just tuck your wires back and install on the bike. I will had a link to my youtube video where you can hear the differance intart up as well as the proccess to start the bike.
Thanks for reading and I hopw this help some of you get your biked power back.
 
#5 ·
For the SUZUKI GSX-R line up the clutch button is manditory there is no way arounf it. If you decide to splice the wires of the clutch button you have lost 10-15 horsepower. Your bike is now running in a neutral map at 80% of the capacity it could. There is debate if this is true but I garentee you it is and was confirmed to me by Chris Opie Caylor who was a profesional racer that also woked on my bike.
Has anyone seen this difference on a dyno? It's not that I don't believe you, cause I do.
But when I wanted to believe that my Pair valve sucker mod made over 5 HP, K dynoed it and proved it. It's a fact.
Where's the proof of the dyno difference?

And, btw, my well sorted GSXR1000 track bike, still has the clutch bypass switch installed and working. Probably b/c Joe at Turn One racing Who was the last to build my bike and dyno tune it, agrees with you and left it there.

So, my point is, where's the dyno proof though.

There are still people that don't think my Pair Valve Sucker mod does what it does, even after I posted the before and after/ same day dyno runs!
And yes, I have a thread on it here somewheres. LOL
 
#6 · (Edited)
The clutch switch is mandatory? Well... depends.

The switch has two functions. Basically it grounds two circuits...
#1 is to provide a ground path for the trigger side of the starter relay. This function you can bypass fairly easily. this is what people do when they bridge the wires simply removing the switch.

#2 is to ground an ecu pin to signal the ecu to run a neutral map.
Image

Here's the dyno map of the neutral map vs standard map on a '07 600 that had it's clutch switch bypassed and the wires bridged.

Image


from here...

If you cut the wire that goes to the ecu, the clutch switch will never ground the ecu pin and the neutral map won't activate.

There is a problem I've read that on newer 1000's the ecu looks for the occasional signal from the clutch switch and will end up throwing a code after a lap or more.
This does not seem to be the case in the 600/750's.

Also, though, by preventing the neutral map from activating on start up, you might lose any fuel enrichment/ignition changes they might have mapped into the neutral map.... Maybe... i'm not sure but wouldn't be surprised if it were true.

There is another solution that will ground the ecu and starter clutch temporarily and that is to wire a relay to bridge the connection triggered by the wires to the starter solenoid.
post #75 here
Image


or post #106 here
or here
Image


or this vid


In the end, I think I am planning on cutting the wire that ground the ecu rather than add additional relays to complicate things. Like the OP, I want to run a CRG carbon clutch lever and perch that has no mounting points for a clutch switch on it.


As usual, I probably did a crappy job trying to explain a rather straightforward switch with one little twist... I apologize. If you have any questions please ask.
 
#8 ·
The clutch button is mandatory? Well... depends.

The switch has two functions. Basically it grounds two circuits...
#1 is to provide a ground path for the trigger side of the starter relay. This function you can bypass fairly easily. this is what people do when they bridge the wires simply removing the switch.

#2 is to ground an ecu pin to signal the ecu to run a neutral map.
View attachment 301774
Here's the dyno map of the neutral map vs standard map on a '07 600 that had it's clutch switch bypassed and the wires bridged.

View attachment 301771

from here...

If you cut the wire that goes to the ecu, the clutch switch will never ground the ecu pin and the neutral map won't activate.

There is a problem I've read that on newer 1000's the ecu looks for the occasional signal from the clutch switch and will end up throwing a code after a lap or more.
This does not seem to be the case in the 600/750's.

Also, though, by preventing the neutral map from activating on start up, you might lose any fuel enrichment/ignition changes they might have mapped into the neutral map.... Maybe... i'm not sure but wouldn't be surprised if it were true.

There is another solution that will ground the ecu and starter clutch temporarily and that is to wire a relay to bridge the connection triggered by the wires to the starter solenoid.
post #75 here
View attachment 301772

or post #106 here
or here
View attachment 301773

or this vid


In the end, I think I am planning on cutting the wire that ground the ecu rather than add additional relays to complicate things. Like the OP, I want to run a CRG carbon clutch lever and perch that has no mounting points for a clutch switch on it.


As usual, I probably did a crappy job trying to explain a rather straightforward switch with one little twist... I apologize. If you have any questions please ask.
WOW! Talk about doing your homework!

As I said I did believe it. Now I've seen the dyno too! Thanks JC