[RockerGuy]

I’ve come to some initial conclusions about the Woolich USB D v3 & software package. I have found it to be very good for doing many things like reading/writing ECU’s, removing factory limiter settings, viewing and adjusting fuel maps, ignition maps, STP maps, exhaust-valve settings, etc, etc, etc. Also, if you make mods to your bike such as installing a slip-on & mid-pipe or replacing the stock steering-damper with an aftermarket, you can remove the fault codes that will be generated by removing the stock units. And you can do these things without paying someone else to flash the ECU for you. But, for me personally, one of the best values is that it’s an excellent training platform to learn what ECU flashing and engine tuning is all about. For $318, I think it’s an outstanding investment.

Even more can be done with the Log Box D v3 setup with its on-board memory card and wideband O2 sensor that allows for live engine data to be recorded while riding. An optional AFR display can be mounted for visual monitoring but the Log Box records much more useful AFR parameters onto the memory card, which can be downloaded into the WRT software.

Just my take on it so far in the short time I’ve had it installed and have been looking into it. The quest for understanding continues. It’s a little surprising that none of the flashing/tuning guru’s are chiming in but then again I have always been more of a learn it on your own type anyway.

The Log Box D v3 & Zeitronic ZT3 wideband O2 sensor kit has been ordered and shipment will be processed soon.

Is there an auto tune?

Some people who knows, it's their bread & butter. It's very secretive.

I was about make a connector & use a generic software to play with mines.

 

[HydeWhyte]

Is there an auto tune?

Some people who knows, it's their bread & butter. It's very secretive.

I was about make a connector & use a generic software to play with mines.

There are actually two types of auto tune with the Woolich tools.

One is AutoTune Live, described as "a feature in WRT that allows the user to populate AFR cells vs IAP/TPS vs RPM and view this process live." AutoTune Live is for use on a dyno only.

The other is AutoTune, described as "a feature within WRT that allows the user to review and apply logged AFR data". The data is generated while riding the bike and is logged onto the Log Box's on-board memory, which can then be downloaded into the WRT software and used for remapping in the ECU. The more riding/more data logged = better data for tuning.

Seems to be some debate about which is better (dyno vs no dyno). My initial guess is that a good dyno tune would be best, while the WRT if used correctly would be better than having a dyno tune done by someone that doesn't take the time to do it right.

 

[HydeWhyte]

Some people who knows, it's their bread & butter. It's very secretive.

Eh, it's only secretive in some circles lol.

 

[RockerGuy]

Found my bookmark from a few years back. If you're terribly bored....

How To ReFlash/Remap 05/06 GSXR1000 stock ECU

Following are instructions on how to reflash the memory of the stock ECU ( 32920-41G10) of an 05/06 GSXR-1000 using an interface to a personal computer or laptop you can build yourself with about $30 in parts. The PC software to reflash the CPU chip inside the ECU is available free from the...

www.gsxr.com

 

[HydeWhyte]

Found my bookmark from a few years back. If you're terribly bored....

How To ReFlash/Remap 05/06 GSXR1000 stock ECU

Following are instructions on how to reflash the memory of the stock ECU ( 32920-41G10) of an 05/06 GSXR-1000 using an interface to a personal computer or laptop you can build yourself with about $30 in parts. The PC software to reflash the CPU chip inside the ECU is available free from the...

www.gsxr.com

That was one of the first threads I read when I started looking into this flashing business. One thing led to another & another & another and I decided to go with the Woolich setup.

 

[HydeWhyte]

USPS tracking shows the Log Box & Zeitronix wideband O2 sensor coming in tomorrow. I guess my next step while playing with the Log Box (minus AFR readings) is to figure out how I want to connect the O2 sensor to the exhaust. I'm thinking about just using the NarrowBand to WideBand adapter (assuming it will allow the ZT-3 to fit under the body panel) until I figure that I need the WB bung welded into the exhaust. Placement & orientation of the bung is important, so I want to get it out of the box and look at how it fits before deciding what to do with it. Just some late night musings.

 

[HydeWhyte]

Well I today got some good news and some bad news. Bad news was USPS tracking said my Woolich shipment had been delayed but would be arriving soon. Good news was that they were right and it showed to have been delivered by lunchtime, so I went and picked it up. But there's more: the Log Box info online said it came with 2GB of on-board memory but it actually came with a removable 16GB SanDisc Ultra Micro SD card already installed.

And to top it all off, we got through with the 1-1/2 hour Headworks Improvement Study meeting with the engineers (they're in process of designing ~$3.7M worth of much needed new equipment for the WWTP) and the boss let me head out at 2. So since it's raining here again, think I'll pop in the headphones while I do a little reading about recording live HydeRide engine data on the Log Box.

Oh, I almost forgot...that new ASUS AX wireless router I installed over the weekend puts out great signal all the way to the shop out back. Laptop use with the Woolich software will now be much faster than it was with the old Motorola. Not bad for a Monday.

 

[HydeWhyte]

Installed the Log Box on the bike after work today, super simple. Three easy steps to configure: set the date/time, set the delay to 60 seconds to keep it from logging data when the key is turned on momentarily for whatever reason, and set the RPM to 2000 to keep it from logging data while warming up the engine or puttering through the yard to get out on the road. May reconsider the RPM setting as idle data might be useful for some as yet unknown reason. Maybe Woolich will program a Temp parameter in Device Configuration to prevent data logging until the temp reaches a certain level. The AutoTune settings in the software do have a filter to disregard data below a set temp, so perhaps they already know something I don't (like duh! just a funny)

 

[RockerGuy]

Most engines are tuned at the operating temperature. Meaning fully warmed. A cold engine requires different stoichiometric ratio compared to a warm engine.

My engine has a "rich" idle. Where it would run the engine rich or on "choke" until someone blips the throttle.

 

[HydeWhyte]

Yeah, mine starts around 1500 then settles down to a tad under 1300 after the throttle blip. Like operating temp tuning, I think that's pretty common.

We caught a break in the rain forecast & they're calling for a high of 82, so going to do the first data log today. Not sure if this thing is designed for a single ride & download, or how it will record the 3 ride sessions - to work, lunch then back home. But it's just a training tool so I'll find out. Didn't care for the under-the-seat placement for the Log Box (seemed to have a little pressure against it putting the seat back on) so I routed it up to the tail and put it in the tool-kit spot with a little bubble-wrap for vibration cushion. The rubber strap has it nice & secure and it will be easier to get to when I go to plug it in to the computer for the download after work.

 

[HydeWhyte]

Well got a bunch of pretty little pics from the data log today. Note that these are not representative numbers; the Zeitronix ZT-3 O2 sensor and Air/Fuel Ratio Meter are not installed, and the PAIR system is not blocked off/still injecting air into the exhaust flow. This data only serves to help me learn about the tuning process and no harm was done to the motorcycle during the generation of this data lol.

One pic is the 2D view showing numerical AFR values and the other is the 3D graph view of the same map. I was not expecting to get AFR data readings without the O2 sensor and AFR Meter installed. Perhaps it is pulling the AFR readings from the stock O2 sensor & ECU?

 

[HydeWhyte]

I’m still in training mode of course but I think I may have settled on my next steps with this Woolich Racing ECU flashing and engine tuning business. Going to leave the cat, plug the PAIR tube at the air-filter housing, flash the (spare) ECU to disable the stock O2 sensor and PAIR Valve FI code, use the 12mm X 18mm adapter to install the Zeitrinix WB O2 sensor and AFR Meter, and do some trial rides to get some hopefully more accurate AFR reads with the Log Box for study.

After a few 30 minute rides I’m hoping that I can then just unplug the PAIR tube to stop sending unburned fuel into the cat and see if everything runs normally with the ZT-3 WB installed. If not, I may have to reinstall the stock O2 sensor and reflash to re-enable the stock O2 sensor.

Maybe not the best plan for a rookie and I’m certainly open to suggestions/advice about any of it. I don’t know how long it takes to impair a cat with unburned fuel but I’m hoping that it takes longer than a few 30 minute rides (about all I’ve heard so far is that “over time” the cat can become restricted).

 

[HydeWhyte]

Looks like it will be next weekend before I'll be able to install the O2 sensor & AFR meter. Got the adapter in from Woolich but still waiting on a few Amazon deliveries. Ordered a bottle of Permatex Nickel anti-seize for the sensor threads, a 532pc assortment of UL listed shrink-tubing, and a 100pk of 4" heavy-duty UV resistant zip-ties. Don't need all that for this project of course but it will come in handy for other jobs, or maybe someone if I catch the COVID & die. Oh well, ya only live once anyway lol

 

[RockerGuy]

Are the nickel anti seize better than the copper? Looking for a high temp for my spark plugs.

 

[HydeWhyte]

Are the nickel anti seize better than the copper? Looking for a high temp for my spark plugs.

Nickel is good up to 2400 degrees F and copper is 1800. Amazon had a 0.5oz tube for $18.09 and 8oz for $17.54, so yeah I got the 8oz

Best Anti Seize For Auto Repair [2021] - Copper Vs. Nickel & More

Find out why not all anti seize are created equal. Nickel anti seize may not be common, but it has a lot of qualities over the competition. Read why

agradetools.com

 

[HydeWhyte]

Man how time flies! It's been slow being able to get back to work on this so thought I'd come give an update.

I got the O2 sensor installed with the AFR meter and associated wiring, just a little tidying up left to do to make it neater. Got it to the point that I'm almost ready to run it, and the bike is starting up and seems to idle & throttle-blip ok. First pic shows the O2 sensor on the exhaust, second pic shows the AFR meter's switched power-supply tie-in near the rear seat, third pic shows the AFR meter & Log Box under the rear seat, and last pic shows the O2 sensor to AFR Meter connections under the front seat. Still have the dealer-mode switch on there after confirming the expected c44 fault thrown after removing the stock O2 sensor. Still have to do the reflash to disable that and put the plastics back on before a road test. Not sure how smooth/rough she's going to run with the stock O2 sensor removed but that's just part of the learning process.

 

[Jimmy boy]

Hello all,

Bought a spare ECU & sent it off to Schnitz Racing for a flash. Plugged it in & seems to work fine but really haven't noticed much difference. Could be because this time of year I'm not out doing much more than just tooling around & not getting into the upper RPM range. Just passed 5400 miles on the bike since I bought it last Feb & just starting to explore performance mods. Already put some Core Moto SS brake lines on her and got the Woolich Racing USB D v3 setup & installed the harnesses so I can read the ECU on a laptop (which I still need to buy).

Anyway, just wondering if there is any info available from the ECU flashing gurus around here. Really just looking into it right now & trying to learn the how-to's and why-for's before going in & making any changes. I find it puzzling how one can tune the bike (very well anyway) without a dyno hook-up, and the Woolich kit I got doesn't seem to be set-up for that but I really don't know enough about it yet. Kept the original ECU untouched so I can always reinstall it if needed.

Any advice or sharing of experience would be well appreciated.

good questions. I did the same with my 17R1M. Didn’t like the flash. Took my bike to Attack racing. Not only did they get me more hp, the response was a 1000 times better. So now that your ecu is unlocked take it to a qualified shop. I was lucky I went with Attack and they are team Yamaha.

 

[HydeWhyte]

good questions. I did the same with my 17R1M. Didn’t like the flash. Took my bike to Attack racing. Not only did they get me more hp, the response was a 1000 times better. So now that your ecu is unlocked take it to a qualified shop. I was lucky I went with Attack and they are team Yamaha.

This is more of a home-school training platform for me to learn how to do it. If I was just trying to boost performance I'd trailer it over to a place like KWS Motorsports in Charleston and let them plug a Level 3 engine build into it. A good dyno tune is def on the agenda later but I'll have to take it the 150 miles to Dallas for that, after I find the right place. Sure not letting some jack-o-all-trades/master-of-none do it. Going to run it a while with the Woolich Log Box 'arse-dyno' to get a good database of AFR readings and then go from there.

 

[HydeWhyte]

Finished getting all of the Woolich parts installed, wired & soldered up & tucked in nice & neat. I haven't entered the header diameter & length into the WRT software yet but ordered a take-off stock exhaust off ebay that is schedulaed for delivery this Thursday. It was only $75 and is in great condition, off a 2018 600 (wrecked I suppose) but has no dings or rust. Even has the O2 sensor & exhaust valve still installed. Looks like some dirt on the cat, could be light rust, but the cat will be removed anyway when I have the 18mm O2 bung welded in place of the stock 12mm and add a mid-pipe & M4 exhaust. I'll eventually go with a full exhaust but this one is just for practice with tuning a modified exhaust. Eventually want to look at a Yoshimura or Akrapovic.

 

[Gsxrsquid]

Finished getting all of the Woolich parts installed, wired & soldered up & tucked in nice & neat. I haven't entered the header diameter & length into the WRT software yet but ordered a take-off stock exhaust off ebay that is schedulaed for delivery this Thursday. It was only $75 and is in great condition, off a 2018 600 (wrecked I suppose) but has no dings or rust. Even has the O2 sensor & exhaust valve still installed. Looks like some dirt on the cat, could be light rust, but the cat will be removed anyway when I have the 18mm O2 bung welded in place of the stock 12mm and add a mid-pipe & M4 exhaust. I'll eventually go with a full exhaust but this one is just for practice with tuning a modified exhaust. Eventually want to look at a Yoshimura or Akrapovic.

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